I have been to Vienna before - almost eight years ago, in September 2018 (Read here). The city is widely known for its symphonies, ballets, and deep musical heritage.
But in the morning of 13 May 2026, as I looked out over the Danube River, Vienna revealed a different impression: a modern European city layered with history, where sleek contemporary buildings stand alongside old castles and church spires.
After breakfast, we began a walking tour of the city. Our guide shared a story about Adolf Hitler, who had once lived in Vienna. As a young man hoping to become a professional artist, Hitler applied twice to the Academy of Fine Arts Vienna in 1907 and 1908, and was rejected both times. It is said that the examiners saw some talent in his architectural sketches but found his figure drawing insufficient for admission, which ultimately led to his rejection. After this setback, he remained in Vienna for several years, surviving by selling small paintings and postcards while living in relative poverty.
She ended the story with a light smile and a quip: “Had he been admitted, history would have been very different.” In hindsight, the question of whether this rejection altered world history remains a common counterfactual speculation. Had Hitler pursued a successful career in art, he might never have entered politics or become involved with the Nazi Party. In that scenario, events such as World War II and the Holocaust might have unfolded differently—or perhaps not in the same form. However, many historians caution that the structural crises in post–World War I Europe were so profound that extremist movements could still have emerged, even without him as a central figure.
Ultimately, Hitler’s rejection from art school is best understood as a biographical detail rather than a decisive turning point in world history. While it may have influenced his personal path, the major events of the twentieth century were shaped by a complex interplay of individual choices and larger historical forces.
Setting aside the earlier historical anecdote, our walking tour began in a tranquil park facing the Hofburg Imperial Palace. The landscaped grounds were carefully maintained, with manicured lawns, pathways, and rows of neatly arranged chairs lined at the path edge. On that quiet morning, most of the chairs remained unoccupied, enhancing the park’s calm and unhurried atmosphere.
Our guide noted with a smile that this would not always be the case. On weekends and public holidays, she explained, every chair would be taken as locals and visitors alike gathered to relax, socialise, and take in the striking view of Vienna’s former imperial residence.
Hofburg Imperial Palace.
While the major Oktoberfest is held in October in Munich, Vienna also hosts the "Wiener Kaiser Wiesn", an equivalence of Oktoberfest so that locals and tourists can experience the beer-festival atmosphere without traveling to Germany. Huge festival tents are currently being set up for this event at the Prater amusement park at the time of our visit.
**************************************************
Vienna Vienna gave me the impression of being an open-air museum, a city adorned with countless bronze and stone statues, sculpted figures, and intricate carvings scattered throughout its streets. They seem to be everywhere - standing proudly in front of grand buildings, emerging from elegant fountains and ponds, or attached to the facades of historic churches and palaces.
As I walked through the city, it felt as though every square and street corner had a story to tell. Some monuments commemorate emperors, military leaders, composers, artists, and other historical figures who shaped Austria's past. Others are purely decorative, created as artistic expressions that add character and beauty to the urban landscape.
What struck me most was how seamlessly art and history are woven into everyday life. In Vienna, statues are not confined to museums or galleries; they are part of the city's fabric. Whether grand or modest, famous or anonymous, these sculptures transform the city into a living gallery where history, culture, and art coexist in plain sight.
**********************************************
After nearly eight years since we stood in front St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephensdom), we again stood in front of this building, at the heart of Vienna's historic center - one of Austria's most iconic landmarks. Built and expanded over several centuries, the cathedral is best known for its Gothic architecture, soaring South Tower, and distinctive roof decorated with colorful glazed tiles that form intricate patterns and the imperial double-headed eagle.
The cathedral has played a central role in Austrian history for more than 700 years. It was the site of important religious ceremonies, royal events, and even the marriage and funeral service of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Its interior features impressive vaulted ceilings, stained-glass windows, and richly decorated chapels that reflect the wealth and influence of medieval Vienna.
St. Stephen's Cathedral also survived some of the city's most turbulent periods. It suffered severe damage during the final days of World War II, when fire destroyed much of its roof. Following extensive restoration, it reopened as a symbol of Austria's resilience and recovery. Today, it remains both a place of worship and one of Vienna's most visited attractions.
**************************************************
During our walking tour, our guide stopped in front of a row of historic buildings and pointed to one that looked strikingly different. While its neighbours were adorned with elaborate carvings and decorative details, this building had a plain façade with simple rectangular windows.
It was the famous Looshaus, designed by architect Adolf Loos for the Jewish-owned fashion house Goldman & Salatsch. When completed in 1912, its minimalist appearance shocked many Viennese. Yet what was once considered radical proved to be far ahead of its time. Loos rejected excessive ornamentation, and his clean, functional design helped pave the way for modern architecture. Today, its simple style resembles many contemporary buildings seen around the world.
***********************************************
As we wandered through Vienna's city centre, we suddenly found ourselves face-to-face with a group of magnificent white horses. Curious, we stopped to learn more and discovered that they were Lipizzaner stallions, the world-famous horses of the "Ballet of the White Stallions."
The horses belong to the Spanish Riding School, one of Vienna's most treasured institutions and the oldest classical riding school in the world. Their performances are often described as a ballet because of the remarkable grace, precision, and harmony displayed by both horse and rider. Years of careful training are required before a Lipizzaner can perform the intricate dressage movements for which the school is renowned.
The setting was equally impressive. We were standing near the magnificent Baroque Winter Riding School, an elegant 18th-century hall commissioned by Emperor Charles VI. With its grand chandeliers, ornate galleries, and imperial architecture, the building reflects the splendour of the Habsburg era. Watching these noble white stallions against such a historic backdrop felt like stepping back into Vienna's imperial past, where tradition, artistry, and horsemanship continue to be preserved with pride.
***************************************************
Before returning to the cruise ship, we stopped at a charming café with a covered terrace overlooking St. Stephen's Cathedral for a relaxing coffee break. It was the perfect spot to sit back, admire the cathedral's magnificent Gothic spire, and soak in the atmosphere of Vienna's historic centre.
Naturally, we chose two classic Viennese specialties. The first was an Einspänner, a rich hot coffee crowned with a generous layer of cold whipped cream. Traditionally served in a glass, the contrast between the strong coffee and the velvety cream makes it a favourite among coffee lovers.
To accompany it, we indulged in a slice of the famous Sachertorte, Vienna's most celebrated chocolate cake. Dense yet delicate, it consists of layers of chocolate sponge separated by a thin spread of apricot jam and finished with a smooth coating of dark chocolate icing. Paired with a cup of coffee and enjoyed against the backdrop of St. Stephen's Cathedral, it was a quintessential Viennese experience.
No comments:
Post a Comment