After spending three full days in Munich, we departed by train early in the morning of 9 May 2026 for Passau, where we would begin our seven-day cruise along the Danube River.
After checking in, settling into our cabin, and enjoying lunch, we headed up to the deck to take in the beautiful views of this historic city.
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The following day, we joined a walking tour of Passau arranged by the cruise company, which gave us a deeper appreciation of the city's rich history and heritage.
Passau is an ancient city whose origins date back to before 15 BC, when Celtic tribes inhabited the region around the confluence of three rivers. Around 15 BC, the Romans conquered the area and established settlements and military outposts, laying the foundations for the city's later development.
As we walked through the city, our guide spoke about one of Passau's recurring challenges - flooding. Passau frequently experiences floods because it lies at the meeting point of three rivers: the Danube, Inn, and Ilz. The Inn carries large volumes of water from the Alps, the Danube drains a vast portion of Central Europe, and the Ilz responds rapidly to local rainfall. When all three rivers rise simultaneously, water levels can increase dramatically. The city's narrow river valley and historic urban layout further heighten the flood risk.
Major floods have occurred throughout Passau's history, including in 1501, 2002, and 2013. Although modern flood-control measures and forecasting systems have significantly reduced damage, flooding remains a recurring challenge.
Flood-level markings on one building recorded the highest flood on 15 August 1501 and another severe flood on 3 June 2013, only slightly lower than the historic record.
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Our guide also explained Passau's importance during the Middle Ages. Owing to its strategic location on the Danube and its status as the seat of a powerful bishopric, Passau became an influential city within the Holy Roman Empire. The Prince-Bishops exercised both religious and political authority, governing extensive territories while benefiting from trade and toll revenues. The city also played a significant role in the spread of Christianity throughout Central Europe.
Over time, however, the influence of the bishopric declined as neighbouring states grew stronger. In 1803, following the secularisation of church territories, Passau became part of Bavaria. Although it lost its political independence, the city's historical significance remains evident in its religious monuments and architectural heritage.
During the walk, our guide pointed out a fortress perched high on a hill overlooking the city—Veste Oberhaus. Situated on St. Georgsberg Hill, this imposing stronghold was built in 1219 by the Prince-Bishops of Passau. It served both as a military fortress and as a powerful symbol of the bishops' authority within the Holy Roman Empire. Its elevated position provided strategic control over the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers, as well as the important trade routes passing through the region.
Over the centuries, the fortress was expanded and reinforced, becoming one of the largest and most important fortifications in southern Germany. It protected the bishopric during periods of conflict and occasionally served as a prison for political opponents. After Passau became part of Bavaria in 1803, the fortress gradually lost its military role and was subsequently used for administrative and military purposes.
Today, Veste Oberhaus functions as a museum and cultural site, preserving the history of Passau and its former bishopric. The complex combines medieval defensive structures with later Renaissance and Baroque additions, reflecting its long and varied history. It remains one of Passau's most recognisable landmarks and offers panoramic views of the city and the spectacular confluence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers.
Aerial view of Veste Oberhaus. The complex is much bigger than what's is seen from the river level below.
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The tour continued to St. Stephen's Cathedral, one of Passau's most impressive landmarks. This magnificent Baroque cathedral was rebuilt after the devastating city fire of 1662. Interestingly, the building appears to have different façades when viewed from various angles, an effect created by its grand scale, curved Baroque design, and integration into Passau's medieval street network.
The cathedral stands on the site of earlier medieval churches and was reconstructed by Italian architects who introduced the elegant twin towers, copper domes, and dramatic architectural features visible today. As the seat of the powerful Prince-Bishops of Passau, it served not only as a religious centre but also as a symbol of political power and prestige.
Today, St. Stephen's Cathedral remains one of Bavaria's most important historical and architectural treasures, attracting visitors from around the world who come to admire its beauty, history, and remarkable Baroque design.
Inside St. Stephen's Cathedral.
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Other interesting observations along the walking tour.
At the beer fountain. Beer will flow non-stop during the October Fest!
Just before we headed back to our cruise, we stopped to admire the rows of colourful buildings lining the opposite riverfront. Painted in soft pastel shades of yellow, pink, green, blue, and cream, these houses reflected the strong Italian and Baroque influences that shaped Passau after the devastating fire of 1662. Rebuilt by Italian architects and craftsmen, many of the buildings feature elegant façades, decorative stucco work, and arched windows that give the city a distinctly southern European character. Against the backdrop of the three rivers and the surrounding hills, the colourful streetscapes add greatly to Passau's charm and make the city one of Bavaria's most picturesque destinations.
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