Central Market Hall in Budapest

On our way to Budapest's Central Market Hall, we spotted a roadside stall selling Hungary's famous chimney cake. Sampling one had been on our list of must-try local treats, so when we saw the stall, we did not hesitate to stop. We promptly ordered two. Crispy on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside, the freshly baked chimney cakes were absolutely delicious and proved to be the perfect snack before continuing our journey to the market.

Chimney cake is a traditional pastry popular throughout Hungary and the Transylvania region. It is made from a sweet yeast dough that is rolled into long strips and carefully wrapped around a cylindrical spit. The dough is then brushed with butter, coated in sugar, and often flavored with cinnamon, vanilla, cocoa, or crushed nuts. As the spit slowly rotates over an open heat source, the dough cooks evenly while the sugar caramelizes on the surface.

During the baking process, the melting sugar forms a crisp, golden-brown crust that gives the pastry its distinctive texture and flavor. Once fully cooked, the dough is removed from the spit, leaving a hollow center. This unique shape resembles a chimney, giving the pastry its English name, as steam rises through the middle like smoke from a chimney. The result is a delightful contrast between the crunchy, caramelized exterior and the soft, fluffy layers within.

While the traditional version remains a favorite, modern variations have become increasingly creative. Many vendors add toppings such as coconut flakes, chocolate, crushed walnuts, almonds, or cinnamon sugar. Some even fill the hollow center with ice cream, whipped cream, fruit, or other sweet fillings. Commonly sold at street markets, festivals, and fairs, chimney cake has gained international popularity thanks to its distinctive appearance, irresistible aroma, and delicious freshly baked taste.

Enjoying our warm chimney cakes by the roadside was a memorable introduction to Hungarian street food culture and a perfect start to our visit to the Central Market Hall.

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The Central Market Hall, also known as the Great Market Hall, has changed remarkably little since our last visit eight years ago in September 2018 (Read here). Stepping inside felt almost like travelling back in time, with the familiar sights, sounds, and bustling atmosphere instantly bringing back memories of our previous trip. As Budapest's largest and most famous indoor market, it continues to serve the dual role of a traditional food market for locals and a major attraction for visitors. Housed in a magnificent 19th-century building with its distinctive steel framework and soaring roof, the market is spread across multiple levels and is home to a vast array of stalls selling food, crafts, and souvenirs.

The moment we entered the ground floor, we were greeted by row upon row of stalls overflowing with fresh produce and local delicacies. Vendors displayed colourful fruits and vegetables alongside an impressive selection of meats, sausages, salami, cheeses, baked goods, honey, jams, wines, and, of course, Hungary's famous paprika. Bright red strings of paprika and clusters of garlic hung from many stalls, creating one of the market's most iconic and photogenic scenes. The rich aromas and vibrant displays made it easy to understand why this level remains a favourite among both locals and tourists seeking authentic Hungarian ingredients and specialties.

After exploring the ground floor, we climbed the staircase to the upper level. This floor is largely devoted to food counters, handicrafts, and souvenir shops. I was particularly eager to revisit the row of eateries at the far end where we had once enjoyed a hearty bowl of traditional goulash soup during our previous visit. To my surprise, the food stalls had changed considerably over the years, and the establishment we remembered was no longer there, having been replaced by other eateries. Nevertheless, the area remained lively and inviting, with visitors sampling local dishes and snacks while taking in views of the bustling market below.

The upper floor is also an excellent place to browse for uniquely Hungarian souvenirs. Stalls offered a wide range of folk crafts, embroidered tablecloths, traditional clothing, hand-painted ceramics, wooden handicrafts, and other items that reflect the country's rich cultural heritage. Even if one has no intention of buying anything, the craftsmanship and colourful displays are worth admiring.

By the time we had thoroughly explored both the ground and upper floors, we felt we had experienced the essence of the market. Although there is also a basement level, we decided not to venture down, as the sheer size of the hall and the amount of walking we had already done were more than enough. Even without seeing every corner, the Great Market Hall once again proved to be one of Budapest's most vibrant and memorable attractions, offering a fascinating glimpse into Hungarian food, culture, and everyday life.

The Bratislava roll is one of Slovakia's most famous traditional pastries. Made from a rich, buttery yeast dough, it is filled with either sweet poppy seeds or walnuts and baked until golden brown with a distinctive glossy finish. Traditionally, the poppy seed version is crescent-shaped, while the walnut-filled roll is formed like a horseshoe. Originating during the Austro-Hungarian era, the pastry reflects the region's long baking tradition. Its delicate pastry and rich filling make it a popular accompaniment to coffee or tea.

At the location we once had the goulash soup.

Graffiti Across Europe: Observations from Munich to Budapest

During my recent trip across Europe - covering Munich, Passau, Linz, Spitz, Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest - one consistent observation was the prevalence of graffiti in almost every city.

Many people, myself included, find this type of graffiti frustrating because it can make neighborhoods feel neglected, detract from historic architecture, and impose significant cleanup costs on property owners and local governments. The main source of criticism is usually “tagging” - quick, repetitive signatures or markings sprayed on walls, trains, and public infrastructure. These are widely viewed as vandalism rather than art.

In contrast, of all countries, Singapore is the least affected by this issue, with virtually no visible illegal graffiti. This reflects strict vandalism laws, consistent enforcement, rapid removal of any unauthorized markings, and strong public expectations around cleanliness and order. While illegal graffiti is rare, Singapore does allow regulated street art in designated spaces.

Malaysia also experiences graffiti, though to a lesser extent than many European cities. This likely reflects differences in enforcement, urban management, and public attitudes toward civic responsibility.

Across Europe, graffiti is more visible, particularly along railway corridors, underpasses, industrial zones, and older urban districts. Although illegal everywhere, enforcement is often more challenging due to anonymity and the ease with which tagging can be done at night. At the same time, many European cities have a long-standing tradition of street art, which leads to a more permissive attitude toward murals and other large-scale, commissioned works. I recall seeing the Lennon Wall in Prague in September 2018 (Read here). What began as a quiet form of protest gradually evolved into a powerful symbol of resistance, and is often associated with the broader civic movements that culminated in the Velvet Revolution and the end of communism in Czechoslovakia.

Europeans often distinguish between vandalistic tagging and legitimate street art. Murals and commissioned pieces are frequently appreciated for adding color, identity, and cultural character to urban environments. Some cities even actively support legal graffiti zones while still working to deter illegal tagging.

Ultimately, the difference between Europe and Singapore reflects broader cultural and policy choices. Singapore prioritizes cleanliness, order, and strict enforcement, resulting in exceptionally clean public spaces. My view is that many European cities accept a higher level of visual disorder in exchange for greater artistic expression and a more visible street-art culture. As a result, visitors from more regulated environments may perceive European graffiti as excessive, while locals may view parts of it as a legitimate form of urban expression.

Budapest's Castle Hill

Just a few steps away from Matthias Church, the path opens into Fisherman’s Bastion, where we were immediately rewarded with one of the most spectacular panoramic views in Budapest. From its sweeping Neo-Romanesque terraces, the entire city unfolded below - the Danube River dividing Buda and Pest, the Parliament Building rising prominently across the water, and elegant bridges stretching across the river in graceful arcs. The historic Castle District blends into the modern skyline in the distance, creating a layered visual narrative of the city.

What makes Fisherman’s Bastion especially memorable is not only the view, but the setting itself. Its white stone arcades, turrets, and stairways frame the panorama like a theatrical backdrop, while nearby landmarks such as Matthias Church reinforce the sense of walking through a living architectural ensemble rather than a single monument.

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From the Bastion, the route naturally led us into the Holy Trinity Square, where we encountered the ornate neo-Gothic Ministry of Finance Building, a richly detailed late-19th-century structure that contrasts with the lighter Romanesque forms nearby.

Ministry of Finance Building, located on Holy Trinity Square opposite Matthias Church, this ornate neo-Gothic building was originally built in the late 19th century and has recently undergone extensive reconstruction.

A short walk away stands Sándor Palace, a refined neoclassical building originally constructed in the early 19th century. Once a noble residence and later heavily damaged during World War II, it was restored and reopened in 2003 as the official residence of Hungary’s president. Nearby, on St. George’s Square, the ceremonial changing of the guard adds a formal rhythm to the district, with precise marching and rifle drills performed by members of the Hungarian Defence Forces.

Continuing onward, we entered the grounds of Buda Castle, where courtyards and terraces open into a series of artistic and historical landmarks. In the Hunyadi Courtyard, we arrived at the celebrated Matthias Fountain, a richly detailed sculptural group depicting King Matthias Corvinus on a royal hunt. The fountain likes a frozen theatrical scene - hunters, hounds, and cascading water surrounding the central figure of the king with his crossbow.

Among the most evocative elements is the figure of Szép Ilonka (Beautiful Helen), a legendary character said to have fallen in love with Matthias while he was disguised as a hunter, only to die of heartbreak after discovering his identity. 

Nearby, on the Danube-facing terrace, stands the equestrian Statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy, commemorating the Habsburg general whose victories against the Ottoman Empire, especially at the Battle of Zenta in 1697, helped shape Hungary’s modern history.

As we move deeper into the castle complex, we pass through monumental inner courtyards of the Lions Court, guarded by imposing stone lion statues that mark the entrances to the Royal Palace sections. 

Along the way, smaller commemorative details appear, including plaques marking cultural milestones such as the first Hungarian-language theatrical performance in 1790 and a Beethoven memorial plaque honoring the composer’s connection to the broader cultural landscape of Budapest.

Finally, on an elevated part of the castle grounds, the route concluded at the statue of the Virgin Mary, a quiet and symbolic focal point overlooking the city. Set against the backdrop of the historic fortress walls and the sweeping views of Budapest beyond, it offered a calm and reflective ending to the journey through Castle Hill.

Revisit Fisherman's Bastian Budapest - Matthias Church

Since disembarking from our river cruise on 16 May 2026, we had been exploring the Pest side of Budapest, east of the Danube. The following morning, 17 May 2026, we decided to cross the river to the Buda side to revisit the iconic Fisherman's Bastion.

Unlike our visit eight years earlier (Read here), when a tourist bus dropped us almost at the foot of the grand staircase leading to the complex, this time we travelled by public tram. The tram stopped at the bottom of the hill, requiring a fairly steep uphill walk to reach the site. However, the walk itself proved to be a rewarding experience, allowing us to appreciate the charm of the Castle District and the surrounding neighbourhood before arriving at this popular attraction.

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Fisherman's Bastion is one of Budapest's most famous landmarks, renowned for its fairy-tale appearance and spectacular views over the Danube River and the city beyond. Although it resembles a medieval fortress, it was actually built between 1895 and 1902 as part of Hungary's millennium celebrations, commemorating 1,000 years since the Magyar tribes settled in the Carpathian Basin.

Designed in the Neo-Romanesque style, the structure serves primarily as a viewing terrace rather than a defensive fortification. Its seven distinctive towers symbolize the seven Magyar tribes that founded Hungary. The bastion's name is derived from the medieval fishermen's guild, which was responsible for defending this section of the city walls during the Middle Ages.

The Bastion offers one of the finest panoramic views in Budapest. From its terraces, visitors can admire the majestic Hungarian Parliament Building, the Danube River, and several of the city's historic bridges. At the centre stands an impressive equestrian statue of Stephen I, Hungary's first king. Adjacent to the bastion is the beautiful Matthias Church, famous for its colourful tiled roof and rich historical significance.

Located within Budapest's UNESCO-listed Castle District, Fisherman's Bastion remains a powerful symbol of Hungarian heritage, architecture, and national identity. It continues to attract countless visitors who come to enjoy its stunning vistas, take photographs, and experience the magic of Budapest by day or night.

Having visited the site eight years earlier, we noticed that it has become considerably more commercialised. New eateries and shopping facilities have sprung up around Matthias Church, catering to the ever-growing number of tourists. While these developments have added convenience for visitors, they have also altered some of the quieter charm we remembered from our previous visit.

Hilton Hotel at right.

During our previous visit in September 2018, we were able to explore the interior of Matthias Church. This time, however, the main entrance was closed and visitors were not permitted to enter the church.