A Memorable Finale in Beijing - Climbing Mutianyu Great Wall of China

Our final day in Beijing, on 23 May 2026, was spent visiting two iconic landmarks - the Great Wall of China at Mutianyu and the Summer Palace.

Our first destination was the Mutianyu Great Wall. This brought back memories of our earlier visit in December 2000, when we climbed the Great Wall at Badaling. At that time, Badaling was promoted as the most famous restored section of the Great Wall, located about 70 km northwest of Beijing. Built during the Ming dynasty, it served as a vital defense protecting the northern approaches to the capital. With its fully restored walls, paved access roads, cable cars, souvenir shops, and well-developed visitor facilities, Badaling became the standard destination for both domestic and international tour groups from the 1980s through the 2000s. Its status was further elevated by visits from many world leaders, whose photographs at the Wall became iconic.

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Today, Badaling remains historically significant, but it is no longer the preferred choice for many travelers. The main reason is overcrowding - especially during peak holiday periods, when the experience can feel congested and highly commercialized. Like many modern visitors, we chose the quieter and more scenic Mutianyu section instead. Still, the crowd was huge that morning. Mutianyu Great Wall (慕田峪长城) is also about 70km from Beijing, but at the northeast instead.

Mutianyu Great Wall (慕田峪长城) is one of the best-preserved and most scenic sections of the Great Wall of China, located in the forested hills of Beijing’s Huairou District, about 70–75 km northeast of the city center. Originally built during the Northern Qi dynasty in the 6th century and extensively rebuilt during the Ming dynasty, Mutianyu formed an important defensive barrier guarding the northern approaches to the imperial capital.

What makes Mutianyu especially remarkable is its combination of historical authenticity and natural beauty. The wall winds dramatically along steep mountain ridges, surrounded by dense forests of pine, cypress, and seasonal foliage. In spring and summer, the hills are lush green; in autumn, the landscape transforms into brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold, making it one of the most photogenic sections of the Great Wall.

Mutianyu is also known for its impressive architecture. This section features 23 watchtowers spread across roughly 5.4 km of restored wall, with many towers positioned closely together because of the strategic importance of the area. Unlike some other restored sections, Mutianyu retains a more peaceful and less commercial atmosphere, allowing visitors to better appreciate the scale and engineering of the Wall.

Mutianyu too offers modern conveniences such as a cable car, chairlift, and the popular toboggan ride down the mountain, making the visit accessible and enjoyable for families, seniors, and hikers alike. 

Unlike our visit in year 2000, age had clearly caught up with us, and this time the walk along the Great Wall was no longer as easy. The steep stone steps, uneven pathways, and constant inclines demanded far more effort than we remembered. We moved carefully and cautiously, sometimes holding onto the side walls for extra stability and balance.

Yet, despite the physical challenge, every step felt worthwhile. Standing atop the Great Wall once again, surrounded by breathtaking mountain views and centuries of history, brought a deep sense of accomplishment and gratitude. It reminded us not only of how much time had passed since our first visit, but also of how fortunate we were to return and experience this wonder again.

Reaching the end of our walk felt like another meaningful achievement - one earned with determination, patience, and a little perseverance. More importantly, it became a joyful shared experience, filled with laughter, encouragement, and unforgettable memories. Tiring as it was, we thoroughly enjoyed every moment, making this return to the Great Wall both rewarding and special.

Savoring Peking Duck in Beijing

We had told ourselves that we simply had to try Peking duck in Beijing before flying home. On the evening of 22 May 2026, after our visit to the Forbidden City, we were joined by Daniel, the grandnephew of Patrick and Jenny from the UK, who is pursuing a Master’s in Business Studies through a programme twinned with Peking University.

He kindly took us to Hongbinlou (鸿宾楼) at Crowne Plaza Beijing Chaoyang, which was conveniently close to our accommodation and is well known for its excellent Peking duck. Before long, the much-anticipated dish arrived. The chef personally carved the duck in front of us, skillfully slicing the crispy skin and tender meat with remarkable precision.

Peking duck is one of China’s most celebrated culinary treasures, originating from Beijing and renowned for its crispy skin, tender meat, and rich flavor. More than just a roast duck dish, Peking duck is a complete culinary experience that reflects Chinese cooking traditions, meticulous preparation, and the philosophy of making full use of every ingredient. Traditionally served in multiple courses, one duck can be transformed into several dishes rather than being presented as a single meal.

The preparation of Peking duck is highly specialized. The duck is carefully cleaned, seasoned, and often glazed with maltose syrup before being air-dried. It is then roasted in a special oven until the skin turns golden, thin, and crisp, while the meat remains juicy and flavorful. This roasting process gives Peking duck its distinctive aroma, texture, and irresistible taste.

As is customary, the chef first carved the beautifully roasted duck in front of us, skillfully slicing the bird with great precision. He then served us the most prized part of the meal - the crispy duck skin, widely regarded as the highlight of Peking duck. In our case, the skin was elegantly presented on small toasted bread squares, allowing us to fully appreciate its delicate crackle, rich flavor, and melt-in-the-mouth texture. It could also be enjoyed with a light dip of fine sugar, which enhanced its sweetness and crispness.

The dish was accompanied by the classic ingredients for duck pancake wraps: soft pancakes, thin slices of roasted duck meat, freshly cut cucumber sticks, finely shredded scallions, and sweet bean sauce. Wrapping these together created a wonderful combination of savory richness, subtle sweetness, refreshing crunch, and soft texture, making this the signature way to enjoy Peking duck.

After the premium slices had been served, the bones and carcass were taken back to the kitchen and carefully simmered into a rich, flavorful soup with cabbage and tofu. The comforting broth, infused with the deep roasted essence of the duck, was delicious. Each spoonful carried a delicate sweetness from the cabbage and a silky softness from the tofu. It provided the perfect, satisfying finale to an exceptional meal, bringing our memorable Peking duck dining experience to a warm and delightful close.

Eggplant with Pepper.

Forbidden City after 25 Years

From the Temple of Heaven, we proceeded to our next destination - the Forbidden City. Similar to our visit 25 years ago, before entering the Forbidden City, we paused at Tiananmen Square to take in the vastness of this enormous public space - one of the largest public squares in the world and a significant political and historical landmark in modern China. Surrounded by monumental government buildings, the square serves as the principal venue for national ceremonies and major public events. In the distance stood the iconic Gate of Heavenly Peace (天安门), prominently displaying the large portrait of Mao Zedong, an enduring symbol of modern Chinese history.

25 years ago, we managed to visit the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong situated at the centre of the Tiananmen Square. This is the final resting place for Mao Zedong.

Beyond Tiananmen lies the Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum, one of China’s most significant historical landmarks and a symbol of imperial authority. Located in the heart of Beijing, it served as the political and ceremonial center of China for nearly 500 years, housing 24 emperors of the Ming dynasty and Qing dynasty. Built between 1406 and 1420 during the reign of the Yongle Emperor, the vast palace complex covers about 720,000 square metres and contains hundreds of buildings with nearly 9,000 rooms.

We entered through the imposing Meridian Gate (午门), the grand southern entrance to the palace. The Forbidden City is arranged along a strict north-south central axis and divided into two main sections: the Outer Court, used for state ceremonies and official affairs, and the Inner Court, reserved for the emperor and the royal household.

Just outside the Meridian Gate (Wumen), the southern gate

25 years ago just outside the Wumen, the southern gate.

Immediately after entering the Meridian Gate (Wumen), we crossed the five white marble bridges, known as the Inner Golden Water Bridges, which span the artificial Inner Golden Water River. From there, we proceeded toward the Gate of Supreme Harmony, beyond which lies the vast square of the Outer Court, home to the three great ceremonial halls.

The Hall of Supreme Harmony is the largest and most important building in the Forbidden City. It was used for major imperial ceremonies such as coronations, royal weddings, and New Year celebrations. Its elevated marble terrace and elaborate dragon motifs symbolized the emperor’s supreme authority.

Behind it stands the Hall of Central Harmony, where the emperor rested and prepared before important ceremonies. Further north is the Hall of Preserving Harmony, which was used for imperial banquets and later served as the venue for the highest-level imperial examinations.

A large crowd, with umbrellas in hand to shield themselves from the rain, gathered just outside the Gate of the Hall of Supreme Harmony on the morning of 23 May 2026.

Outside the Gate of Supreme Harmony (Taihemen) stand two impressive bronze guardian lions, symbols of protection and imperial authority. The male lion, positioned on the right when facing the gate, rests his paw on a decorative ball, representing imperial power, control over the world, and the unity of the empire. The female lion, on the left, places her paw on a lion cub, symbolizing fertility, prosperity, and the continuity of the imperial lineage. Together, they embody both strength and nurturing power, guarding the entrance against evil spirits and unwanted influences. Their fierce expressions, curly manes, muscular forms, and ornate collars emphasize their status and grandeur. Although lions are not native to China, their image was introduced through Buddhist influence from India and Central Asia. Over time, guardian lions became important architectural symbols in palaces, temples, and official buildings throughout imperial China.

At the Gate of Supreme Harmony (Taihemen) 25 years ago.

Beyond the ceremonial zone lies the Inner Court, which offers a glimpse into the more private and domestic side of imperial life. At its center stands the Palace of Heavenly Purity, which served as both the emperor’s residence and an important administrative hub where state affairs were often conducted. Behind it is the Hall of Union, a smaller yet symbolically significant structure that housed the imperial seals and represented the harmonious balance between heaven and earth. Completing the central residential axis is the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, traditionally associated with the empress and reflecting her role within the imperial household.

Unfortunately, our guide moved through the section where the emperor’s concubines once lived rather quickly, giving us little time to properly observe or appreciate this part of the Inner Court. As a result, we missed the opportunity to gain a fuller understanding of the living quarters and daily lives of the women who played significant roles within the imperial court.

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At the northern end lies the Imperial Garden, a beautifully designed retreat with ancient cypress trees, pavilions, and decorative rock formations that offered relaxation to the imperial family. Today, the Forbidden City remains a masterpiece of architecture and history, offering visitors a remarkable glimpse into the grandeur, rituals, and authority of China’s emperors.

A pavilion in the Imperial garden.

At the Imperial Garden, many stopped to take photo at the Lianli Cypress (also called the Consort Pine), features intertwined branches of two trees, symbolizing eternal harmony between emperor and empress.

Our tour of the Forbidden City finally concluded at the Mountain of Accumulated Excellence (Duixiu Shan), located in the northern section of the Imperial Garden. This impressive 10-m-high artificial stone hill was carefully constructed to enhance the garden’s landscape and symbolic grandeur. At its summit stands the Imperial Prospect Pavilion (Yujing Ting), offering an elevated vantage point over the palace grounds.

Historically, during the Double Ninth Festival, the emperor, empress, and imperial concubines would ascend the hill to the pavilion to enjoy the panoramic views and celebrate the occasion. The tradition of climbing to a high place during this festival symbolized longevity, good fortune, and protection from misfortune. 

Returning to Temple of Heaven after 25 Years

We decided to join a local day tour to visit Beijing’s two most iconic historical attractions on 22 May 2026 - the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven. These two attractions offers a deep understanding of China’s imperial history, architecture, and cultural traditions. Although both were central to the lives of Chinese emperors, they served very different purposes and provide distinct visitor experiences.

We started with the visit to the Temple of Heaven or Tiantan Park located at the Dongcheng District in Beijing. We entered through the East Gate. Immediately, we saw the first landmark, the Seven Star Stones (七星石), a historic stone arrangement inspired by the Big Dipper (北斗七星). 

The first landmark we saw as we approached the Temple of Heaven was the Seven Star Stones (七星石), a historic stone arrangement inspired by the Big Dipper (北斗七星). In traditional Chinese astronomy and Daoist cosmology, the Big Dipper symbolized cosmic order, protection, longevity, and imperial authority, making it an important motif in garden and landscape design.

Originally, the formation consisted of seven stones, carefully arranged to represent the seven stars of the constellation. More than decorative features, the stones served as symbolic links between the earthly landscape and celestial patterns. Their placement reflected principles of feng shui, intended to create harmony and balance between heaven, earth, and human life.

During the Qing dynasty, an eighth stone was added to symbolize that the Qing dynasty had become an integral part of a unified China. Today, the stones remain a powerful symbol of the enduring connection between astronomy, philosophy, and imperial Chinese culture.

Just outside the first building to the Forbidden City or the Palace Museum.

Some of the items on display at the first building.

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Moving into the Inner Court along a long covered corridor, we were soon confronted by one of the Temple of Heaven’s most iconic and breathtaking structures - the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (祈年殿). Majestic and elegant, this circular, triple-eaved wooden building rises to approximately 38m in height, with a diameter of about 32.7m. Its deep blue tiled roof, symbolizing the heavens, stood out strikingly against the clear Beijing sky, immediately drawing our attention.

What makes this architectural masterpiece even more remarkable is its construction. Built entirely without nails, the hall relies on an ingenious system of interlocking wooden joints, showcasing the extraordinary craftsmanship of ancient Chinese builders. Despite its complexity and scale, the structure has stood for centuries as a testament to traditional Chinese engineering and architectural sophistication.

Inside, the hall is supported by 28 massive wooden pillars, each carefully arranged with profound symbolic meaning rooted in Chinese cosmology and the agricultural calendar. The four central pillars represent the four seasons; the twelve inner pillars symbolize the twelve months of the year; and the twelve outer pillars correspond to the traditional twelve divisions of the Chinese day, known as the shichen (时辰), with each division spanning two hours. Together, these pillars reflect the ancient Chinese understanding of time, nature, and the harmonious relationship between heaven and earth.

The hall was not merely an architectural marvel - it was also a sacred ceremonial space. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, emperors came here to perform solemn annual rituals, praying to Heaven for good harvests and prosperity for the empire. As the “Son of Heaven,” the emperor served as the intermediary between the celestial realm and the earthly world, making this hall one of the most spiritually significant sites in imperial China.

Old photo of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests taken on 3 December 2000.

This was my second visit to the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The first time I stood here was in December 2000, a full quarter of a century ago. Returning after 25 years brought a deep sense of nostalgia, and I could not help but compare the two visits.

Back then, the site was far quieter and far less crowded, allowing for a more peaceful appreciation of its grandeur and spiritual atmosphere. This visit, however, was a completely different experience. Compounded by relentless, non-stop rain and overwhelming crowds, it turned out to be the most torturous part of our entire journey since our European tour began on 5 May 2026.

With almost everyone carrying umbrellas, pathways became congested and movement slowed to a crawl. To make matters worse, our shoes were soaked through, making every step increasingly uncomfortable. The persistent rain blurred the scenery and diminished what would otherwise have been a thoroughly enjoyable visit. The beauty and serenity of the surroundings were, unfortunately, greatly compromised by the weather and the sheer number of visitors.

Still, we pressed on and endured. Despite the discomfort, standing once again before this magnificent hall after 25 years remained a meaningful experience - one that reminded me that some journeys are memorable not only for their beauty, but also for the challenges overcome along the way.

From the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, we continued along the central axis to the Imperial Vault of Heaven (皇穹宇). Unfortunately, we did not manage to take a photo of it this time. Fortunately, I was able to find an old photo I had taken in December 2000.

Continuing further, we reached the huge Circular Mound Altar. The Circular Mound Altar is an open-air ceremonial altar within the Temple of Heaven, built for imperial rituals honoring Heaven. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the emperor - regarded as the “Son of Heaven” -performed major ceremonies here, especially during the winter solstice, to offer sacrifices and pray for harmony between Heaven, Earth, and the empire. Unlike enclosed temple buildings, the altar has no roof because worship of Heaven was meant to occur directly beneath the sky, symbolizing an unbroken connection with the heavens. Its design reflects traditional Chinese cosmology: the circular shape represents Heaven, while the three marble tiers symbolize ascending spiritual levels. The altar also features repeated use of the number nine, an imperial and heavenly number associated with supreme power. More than a religious structure, the Circular Mound Altar embodied imperial legitimacy, cosmic order, and the emperor’s sacred duty to maintain balance in the realm. 

With courtesy:  Photo was downloaded from website.

Old photo at the Circular Mound Altar taken in December 2000.

The giant Lantern Viewing Pole at right within the Circular Mound Altar was used to hoist giant lantern that illuminated the altar during the pre-dawn ceremonies of Winter Solstice, when emperors offered sacrifices to heaven.

Old photo of the giant pole taken in December 2000.