The Great Synagogue of Budapest

After visiting the Sunday Farmers' Market at Szimpla Kert, we continued our stroll through the neighborhood until a poster caught our eye. It read, "Dohány Synagogue: 6-in-1 Experience." Intrigued, we decided to purchase entrance tickets and spend the rest of the afternoon exploring this historic site.

Dohany Synagogue, also known as the Great Synagogue, is one of the most important Jewish landmarks in Europe. Located in the historic Jewish Quarter of Budapest, it is the largest synagogue in Europe and among the largest active synagogues in the world, with seating for nearly 3,000 people.

Built between 1854 and 1859, the synagogue is famous for its distinctive Moorish Revival architecture. Its twin onion-domed towers, decorative brick façade, and richly ornamented interior make it one of Budapest’s most recognizable buildings. Unlike many traditional synagogues, it features a large organ and choir, reflecting the customs of Hungary’s Neolog Jewish community. Neolog Judaism is a branch of Judaism that developed in the 19th century in the former Kingdom of Hungary. It emerged as a movement that sought to modernize Jewish religious life while preserving Jewish traditions and identity.

The synagogue complex has deep historical significance. During World War II, the synagogue lay on the edge of the Budapest Ghetto, where thousands of Jews suffered persecution and death. Because regular burials were impossible during this period, a cemetery was established within the synagogue grounds.

The complex includes the Hungarian Jewish Museum, the Heroes’ Temple, a cemetery, and the Holocaust Memorial Garden. One of its most moving features is the Tree of Life Memorial, a metal weeping willow sculpture engraved with the names of Holocaust victims.

Restored in the 1990s, the synagogue remains an active place of worship, a cultural venue, and a powerful symbol of Jewish heritage, remembrance, and resilience in Hungary.

Cemetry.

Tree of Life Memorial.

Among the well-known Hungarian Jews featured in the exhibit were actress Zsa Zsa Gabor and actor Paul Newman.

Today, Budapest remains the center of Jewish life in Hungary. According to our tour guide, the city is home to an estimated 80,000 to 100,000 Jewish residents, making it one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. The community continues to play an active role in sectors such as business, finance, technology, healthcare, education, tourism, and the creative industries. The historic Jewish Quarter, centered around the Dohány Street Synagogue, has evolved into a vibrant cultural and tourist destination. It not only preserves the rich heritage and traditions of Hungarian Jewry but also contributes significantly to Budapest’s contemporary cultural and economic life.

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That evening, we had dinner at the restaurant in Danubius Hotel Astoria, which was within walking distance of our accommodation. One of Budapest’s most historic hotels, the Danubius Hotel Astoria opened in 1914 and seamlessly blends early twentieth-century elegance with modern comforts. Its beautifully preserved architecture and timeless atmosphere offer a glimpse into the city’s rich cultural heritage, making it a memorable setting for our evening meal.

An Unexpected Visit to Budapest's Most Unique Sunday Market

Our first full day in Budapest, on 17 May 2026, began after we had disembarked from our cruise the previous day. It was a Sunday, and despite the steady morning rain, we were determined to explore the city. Armed with umbrellas and raincoats, we made our way to Elizabeth Square, one of the liveliest and most central locations in Budapest.

Dominating the square was the Budapest Eye, the giant Ferris wheel that has become one of the city's most recognizable landmarks. Rising above the surrounding buildings, it offers sweeping views of the Hungarian capital and serves as a focal point for both locals and visitors.

Nearby, we came across an outdoor exhibition featuring photographs and biographies of distinguished Hungarians whose achievements have left a lasting mark on the world. Among them was Ernő Rubik, the inventor of the world-famous Rubik's Cube, a puzzle that has challenged and fascinated generations. Also featured was Albert Szent-Györgyi, the scientist who discovered Vitamin C and received the Nobel Prize for his groundbreaking contributions to medicine. Another prominent figure was Katalin Karikó, whose pioneering research on mRNA technology laid the foundation for the development of COVID-19 vaccines, work that earned her the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine.

The exhibition was a reminder of Hungary's remarkable contributions to science, innovation, and human progress. Standing there in the heart of Budapest, beneath grey skies and falling rain, we gained a deeper appreciation of how this relatively small nation has produced individuals whose discoveries and inventions have improved the lives of millions around the world. It was an inspiring start to our exploration of this beautiful and historic city.

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As we continued our walk through the city, we unexpectedly stumbled upon the Sunday Farmers' Market at Szimpla Kert, one of Budapest's most unique and charming weekend attractions. Housed within the city's famous ruin bar, the market takes place every Sunday morning, transforming what is normally a vibrant nightlife venue into a bustling community marketplace.

The market showcased an impressive array of local and regional produce. Stalls overflowed with fresh fruits and vegetables, artisan cheeses, homemade breads, honey, jams, pickles, sausages, and a tempting selection of traditional Hungarian delicacies. There were also handcrafted products and natural goods created by local artisans. Many vendors generously offered samples, inviting visitors to savour their products and discover the rich flavours of Hungary.

One stall caught our attention when the vendor offered us a small taste of traditional Hungarian goulash soup. Rich, hearty, and full of flavour, it was impossible to resist. After a few spoonfuls, we promptly ordered a bowl and enjoyed it right there in the lively market atmosphere. 

In fact, goulash soup wasn’t new to us - we first tried it about eight years earlier during a visit to the Central Market Hall in Budapest (Read here).

Szimpla Kert's interior is unlike anything I had seen before. The building exudes a  bohemian character, with its faded century-old walls, colourful graffiti, mismatched vintage furniture, and an eclectic collection of artwork and quirky decorations. Every corner seemed to reveal another curious object or creative installation, giving the place a unique personality that was both nostalgic and whimsical.

This unconventional setting provided a backdrop unlike any traditional farmers' market. Locals and tourists wandered through the maze of stalls, browsing fresh produce and artisanal products while enjoying freshly brewed coffee, pastries, and hearty brunch dishes. The atmosphere was relaxed and lively, enhanced by the sounds of live music drifting through the various rooms and courtyards.

Although the market has become increasingly popular with visitors, it remains a cherished gathering place for Budapest residents. For us, it was a delightful and unexpected discovery - a place where market, cultural attraction, and social hub seamlessly come together. It proved to be a memorable experiences of our Sunday morning in Budapest.

Budapest by Night: A Memorable Finale

The final evening of our cruise was spent admiring the enchanting nightscape of Budapest as the ship glided gracefully along the Danube. After savoring a hearty farewell dinner, we made our way to the upper deck to take in the city's illuminated beauty. 

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I vividly recalled taking a similar daytime cruise about eight years earlier, when the city had already left a lasting impression on me (Read here). This time, as we sailed through the heart of Budapest, magnificent buildings lined both banks of the river - an elegant blend of historic landmarks, classical architecture, and modern structures. Countless bridges spanned the Danube, each adding its own character to the city's skyline. Seeing these familiar sights bathed in golden and colorful lights transformed them into something entirely different. The reflections shimmering on the water created a magical atmosphere and offered a visual experience that was every bit as memorable as the daytime cruise.

Walking Among the Memorials of Budapest and Linz

In the afternoon of 15 May 2026, with some free time before the end of our river cruise, I decided to revisit the Shoes on the Danube Bank, a site we had briefly seen during our walking tour that morning. From the ship’s docking point, I walked nearly 2km to the Danube embankment where the iron shoes stand in silent testimony to one of Hungary’s darkest chapters.

The Shoes on the Danube Bank is among Budapest’s most moving Holocaust memorials. Created in 2005 by film director Can Togay and sculptor Gyula Pauer, it consists of sixty pairs of iron shoes fixed to the riverbank near the Hungarian Parliament. They commemorate the victims who were executed at this site during the final months of World War II.

In 1944-1945, members of the fascist Arrow Cross militia carried out mass shootings along the Danube. Many victims, most of them Jews, were ordered to remove their shoes before being shot so that the footwear could be reused or sold. Their bodies were then pushed into the river. The memorial captures this atrocity through absence rather than representation: abandoned shoes marking lives suddenly and violently interrupted.

Unlike conventional monuments, there are no heroic figures or grand narratives. The shoes rest at ground level, inviting visitors to look down and reflect on the ordinary humanity of those who perished. Cast in iron, they convey permanence and weight, while their varied styles hint at the individuality of the men, women, and children they represent. Flowers, candles, and small stones left by visitors - echoing Jewish mourning traditions - continue to transform the site into a living place of remembrance. Beside it, the flowing Danube serves as a powerful metaphor for time, loss, and memory.

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Earlier that morning, our walking tour had taken us to Liberty Square in Budapest, where two very different interpretations of Holocaust memory stand side by side.

The official “Memorial for the Victims of the German Occupation,” unveiled in 2014, depicts Hungary as the Archangel Gabriel being attacked by a German imperial eagle. Its symbolism presents Hungary primarily as a victim of Nazi occupation. Historians and Jewish organisations have criticised the monument for downplaying Hungary’s own role in the Holocaust, noting that Hungarian authorities actively participated in the deportation of hundreds of thousands of Jews to Auschwitz in 1944.

Directly in front of the monument is the informal “Living Memorial,” created by citizens, survivors, and descendants who felt that the official narrative failed to acknowledge this responsibility. Composed of family photographs, letters, identity documents, candles, stones, and personal mementoes, it is not state-sponsored or formally curated. Instead, it continues to evolve through public participation.

Together, the two memorials create a powerful dialogue. One is official, permanent, and institutional; the other personal, fragile, and continually changing. The Living Memorial serves as a counter-narrative, restoring individual voices and experiences largely absent from the state monument. Surrounded by important political institutions, Liberty Square has become a symbolic space where competing interpretations of history coexist in full view.

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Earlier in our cruise, when we visited Linz, I encountered yet another approach to remembrance. The city’s Memorial Signs for Victims of National Socialism, designed by Austrian artist Andreas Strauss, consists of slender brass steles placed near the last freely chosen homes of Jewish victims.

Rather than concentrating memory in a single location, these memorials are woven into the urban landscape - along streets, beside shops, and in residential neighbourhoods - ensuring that remembrance becomes part of everyday life. Each stele records names, birth years, and known fates, restoring identity to those who were persecuted and murdered.

A distinctive feature is a small bell attached to each stele. When pressed, it emits a soft chime reminiscent of a household doorbell, evoking both the familiarity of home and the tragedy of lives uprooted by persecution. The simple act of ringing the bell transforms remembrance into a personal and physical experience.

We paused at Altstadt 3 in Linz’s old town. This stele commemorates Berthold Plaschkes, born in 1874 and murdered during the Holocaust, together with other members of his family. Located in a narrow street lined with shops and cafés, the memorial blends into the rhythms of daily life. This juxtaposition creates a quiet but powerful tension between present-day normality and the violence of the past.

Taken together, these three sites - the Shoes on the Danube Bank, the competing memorials of Liberty Square, and the dispersed steles of Linz - demonstrate different ways of confronting the legacy of the Holocaust. One speaks through absence, another through contested memory, and the third through quiet integration into everyday space. None offers simple closure. Instead, each reminds us that remembrance is an ongoing act - one that must continually be revisited, questioned, and renewed.

Budapest, Our Final Cruise Destination

On Day 7 of our cruise, 15 May 2026, we arrived at our final destination - Budapest, a city we had previously visited in September 2018. Returning after nearly eight years brought back many fond memories, while also giving us the opportunity to experience the city from a fresh perspective.

As our ship approached the city, we were greeted by some of Budapest's most iconic landmarks. Standing along the banks of the Danube was the magnificent Parliament House, one of the city's most recognizable architectural masterpieces. In the distance, we could also see the 40-m-high Liberty Statue perched atop Gellért Hill, overlooking the city below. Originally erected after World War II, the monument was rededicated in 1989 to honour all those who sacrificed their lives for Hungary's independence and freedom.

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Our tour of Budapest began at Gerbeaud House in Vörösmarty Square. Unlike previous walking tours, this one started with a special treat - a special breakfast stop at the renowned Gerbeaud Café, one of the city's most historic and elegant establishments. Located in the heart of Budapest, the café has welcomed guests since the 19th century and is celebrated for its refined atmosphere, exquisite pastries, and rich coffee culture. Enjoying breakfast in such a grand setting was a delightful way to begin our exploration of the Hungarian capital.

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Budapest is, in fact, the result of the unification of three historic towns in 1873 - Buda, Pest, and Óbuda (Old Buda). Separated by the majestic Danube River, Buda occupies the hilly western bank, while Pest spreads across the flat eastern plain. Together, they form Hungary's vibrant capital and largest city.

The history of these settlements stretches back more than two thousand years. The area was first inhabited by Celtic tribes before becoming part of the Roman Empire, which established the military and commercial settlement of Aquincum in what is now Óbuda. Following the arrival of the Magyar tribes in the late 9th century, Buda gradually emerged as an important royal and administrative centre. During the Middle Ages, Buda became the seat of Hungarian kings and flourished as a political and cultural hub.

The fortunes of the region changed dramatically in 1541 when the Ottoman Empire captured Buda, beginning nearly 150 years of Turkish rule. During this period, many churches were converted into mosques, and Turkish baths were constructed, some of which still operate today. The Habsburgs recaptured the city in 1686, and over the following centuries both Buda and Pest underwent extensive rebuilding and modernization.

By the 19th century, Pest had developed into the country's commercial and financial centre, while Buda retained its role as the historic and administrative heart of the nation. The opening of the iconic Chain Bridge in 1849 physically linked the two sides of the river, symbolizing the growing unity between the cities. This culminated in 1873 when Buda, Pest, and Óbuda were officially merged to create Budapest.

The newly unified city grew rapidly and became one of the most important urban centres in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Grand boulevards, elegant public buildings, and impressive landmarks such as the Parliament Building were constructed during this period of prosperity. By the early 20th century, Budapest had earned a reputation as one of Europe's most beautiful and cosmopolitan cities.

Today, Budapest is home to nearly 1.7 million residents and serves as Hungary's political, economic, cultural, and educational centre. Buda is known for its historic castle district, winding streets, thermal baths, and panoramic views from the surrounding hills. Pest, on the other hand, is the bustling commercial heart of the city, featuring wide avenues, shopping districts, government buildings, museums, restaurants, and vibrant nightlife.

Despite the many challenges it has faced throughout its history - including wars, occupations, and political upheavals - Budapest has emerged as one of Central Europe's most dynamic and attractive capitals. 

After admiring the Hungarian Parliament Building from the Danube River on several occasions, we finally arrived at Kossuth Square, where this magnificent landmark stands in all its grandeur. Beside the Parliament is the equestrian statue of Count Gyula Andrássy, one of Hungary's most esteemed statesmen. As the country's first Prime Minister following the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867, Andrássy played a pivotal role in shaping modern Hungary and restoring a measure of political autonomy within the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

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In front of St. Stephen's Basilica. This is the largest Roman Catholic church in the city and is dedicated to Hungary's first king, St. Stephen I.

We passed by the Soviet Heroic Memorial located at the Liberty Square. This was erected in 1945 to honor the Red Army soldiers who died during the Battle of Budapest. The monument remains highly controversial among many Hungarians: while it commemorates the country's liberation from Nazi Germany, it also serves as a reminder of the decades of Soviet occupation and communist rule that followed.

Ironically, Liberty Square is best known today for its dancing fountains, the laughter of families, and the fascination of visitors gathering to watch its lively public displays. Yet beneath this atmosphere of leisure and enjoyment lies one of Hungary’s most emotionally charged spaces of public memory. The square serves as a living Holocaust counter-memorial, where personal artifacts, photographs, candles, and messages of remembrance stand in direct confrontation with a highly controversial state-sponsored monument nearby. The juxtaposition is striking: a place filled with everyday joy and recreation is simultaneously a site of mourning, historical contestation, and ongoing reflection on Hungary’s role during the Holocaust.

From our vantage point on the Pest side of the Danube River, we were treated to an exquisite panorama of Buda rising gracefully across the river. The historic hills, elegant architecture, and iconic landmarks created a picture-perfect scene, especially as they reflected upon the shimmering waters of the Danube. Standing in Pest, we could fully appreciate the beauty and grandeur of Budapest’s twin cities, whose contrasting landscapes are united by the river that flows between them.

Our tour concluded near the iconic Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial. Although we could see many visitors gathered around this poignant landmark, our limited schedule did not allow enough time to explore it up close. It is undoubtedly a place worth returning to, both to reflect on its historical significance and to fully appreciate its powerful message.

Before the walking tour ended, we stopped at Séf Asztala for lunch. Located in Kossuth Square beside the Hungarian Parliament Building in central Budapest, Séf Asztala is a contemporary Hungarian bistro, café, and bakery. The venue combines traditional Hungarian comfort food with modern café culture, offering a welcoming dining experience in one of the city's most picturesque settings.