Hofgarden and Munich Residenz

On 8 May 2026, which is a day before checking into the river cruise, we went to explore the Munich Residenz and the Hofgarden. Residenz Munich was once the palace of the Bavarian royalty.

Hofgarten which is next to the Munich Residenz was originally designed as the palace garden for the rulers of Bavaria. Located directly north of the Residenz in Munich, the Hofgarten was created in the early 17th century as a private space for relaxation, leisure, and courtly activities. Together, the garden and the palace formed a unified royal complex that reflected the power and prestige of the Wittelsbach dynasty. Today, the Hofgarten remains an important historical and cultural landmark, providing visitors with a scenic connection to the Residenz and offering insight into the lifestyle of Bavaria’s former royal court.

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The Munich Residenz is the largest city palace in Germany and one of Munich's most important historic landmarks. Originally begun as a fortified castle in the late 14th century, it was expanded over more than 400 years into a vast palace complex that served as the official residence and seat of government of Bavaria's Wittelsbach rulers, including dukes, electors, and kings.

The palace combines Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical architectural styles, reflecting the tastes and ambitions of successive generations of Bavarian rulers. Its highlights include the magnificent Antiquarium, lavish royal apartments, ornate state rooms, and the Treasury, which houses crowns, jewels, and other royal artifacts.

After the Bavarian monarchy ended in 1918, the Residenz ceased to function as a royal residence. Today, it operates as a museum, offering visitors a glimpse into the political power, artistic patronage, and daily life of Bavaria's former ruling dynasty. 

A Chapel in the palace complex.

Bedchamber.

The Bavarian monarchy came to an end in November 1918 amid the upheaval that followed Germany's defeat in World War I. Years of wartime hardship - including food shortages, economic distress, and devastating casualties - had eroded public confidence in the ruling order. Many Bavarians felt that the existing political system had failed to protect ordinary people, while democratic and socialist movements gained momentum by calling for greater representation and reform.

Against this backdrop of unrest, socialist leader Kurt Eisner led a revolution in Munich and proclaimed Bavaria a republic. King Ludwig III fled the capital and effectively relinquished power, bringing more than 700 years of rule by the House of Wittelsbach to an end. Unlike some monarchs overthrown in other revolutions, Ludwig III was not executed; he lived in exile and died in 1921.

As I walked through the grand halls of the Munich Residenz, I couldn't help but reflect on how similar the downfall of great monarchies often seems. The details differ, but the underlying causes are strikingly familiar: war, economic hardship, social inequality, and a growing disconnect between rulers and the people they governed.

The Romanov dynasty in Russia met a far more violent end. During World War I, military defeats, economic collapse, food shortages, and widespread dissatisfaction with the autocratic rule of Tsar Nicholas II fueled the Russian Revolution of 1917. The Tsar abdicated, ending more than three centuries of Romanov rule. As Russia descended into civil war, Nicholas II and his family were executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918, marking one of the most dramatic and tragic collapses of a European monarchy (Read here). 

More than a century earlier, the French monarchy fell during the French Revolution. Burdened by crushing debt, economic crisis, rising food prices, and deep resentment toward aristocratic privilege, France experienced a popular uprising that challenged the very foundations of the old order. The monarchy was abolished in 1792, and King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette were executed the following year. Their downfall symbolized the end of an era and the beginning of a new political age shaped by ideas of citizenship, equality, and popular sovereignty. Read here about the post on Versailles.

Standing in these magnificent palaces today, it is easy to be captivated by the wealth, power, and grandeur they represent. Yet history reminds us that even the most powerful dynasties are not immune to change. Palaces endure long after their rulers are gone, serving as monuments not only to past glory but also to a timeless lesson: no throne is permanent when a government loses the trust and support of its people.

Exploring Dachau Old Town and Palace Hill

We ended our visit to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site at around 4.15pm on 7 May 2026. With some time left before nightfall, we decided to stop at the old town of Dachau and make our way up the hill to Dachau Palace.

Before the uphill walk, we paused along the cobbled streets of Dachau’s old town. The settlement itself is very old, first documented in the 8th century - making it more than 1,200 years old. It developed as a small medieval market town in Bavaria, shaped by its position along regional trade and agricultural routes, and later by its connection to the ducal residence above.

The “old town” (Altstadt) still preserves its historic character today, with narrow lanes, traditional Bavarian houses, and small central squares that reflect its medieval layout. Though now part of the wider Munich metropolitan region, it retains a distinct identity separate from the city.

Once we reached the top, we had a panoramic view of Amper River valley below.

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Dachau Palace (Schloss Dachau) rises above the town and began as a medieval fortification overlooking the Amper River valley. By the late Middle Ages, it had become an important seat for Bavarian nobility due to its strategic position.

In the 16th century, under the Wittelsbach dukes Wilhelm IV and Albrecht V, it was transformed into a Renaissance-style summer residence, expanded into a four-wing complex. It remained largely unchanged until 1715, when Elector Max Emanuel commissioned the refurbishment of the banqueting hall wing, adding a modernised façade and staircase. In the early 19th century, King Max I Joseph ordered the demolition of three of the four wings, leaving only the Baroque banqueting hall tract that survives today.

The palace gardens, known as the terrace gardens, were designed in the Baroque style as a series of stepped levels descending the hill. Once highly formal, with geometric layouts and ornamental planting, they were designed to frame long views across the valley toward the Alps. While later softened into a more park-like landscape, the terraced structure and dramatic sightlines remain the defining features of the site.

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We chose to take a different route from Dachau Palace down to the old town. As we wandered through the streets, we came across a shop that operated as a restaurant and decided to stop for dinner. After enjoying a hearty Bavarian meal, we made our way back to the hotel.

Never Again: A Personal Reflection on Dachau and the Legacy of Atrocity

Before my visit to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site in Munich on 7 May 2026, the concentration camp I was familiar with was Auschwitz - widely known as the largest and deadliest complex of concentration and extermination camps, located in then German-occupied Poland. 

We spent about three and a half hours that afternoon learning about the horrors associated with the site in Dachau.

The Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site in Germany stands as one of the most significant reminders of the atrocities committed under Nazi rule. Located near the city of Munich, Dachau was established in 1933, shortly after Adolf Hitler came to power. It was the first regular concentration camp created by the Nazi regime and later became a model for many other camps that followed. Today, the memorial site serves not only as a historical landmark but also as a place of remembrance, education, and reflection for visitors from around the world.

Originally, Dachau was intended to hold political prisoners such as communists, journalists, trade unionists, and others who opposed the Nazi government. Over time, however, the camp expanded to imprison many groups whom the Nazis considered undesirable. These included Jewish people, clergy members, homosexuals, Jehovah’s Witnesses, resistance fighters, and prisoners of war. Between 1933 and 1945, more than 200,000 people from across Europe were imprisoned there. Tens of thousands lost their lives due to starvation, disease, forced labor, medical experiments, torture, and execution.

Upon arrival, detainees passed through the entrance gate bearing the phrase “Arbeit macht frei,” meaning “Work sets you free.” This slogan cruelly deceived prisoners while symbolizing the manipulation and brutality of the Nazi system. Beyond the gate lies the large roll-call square, where prisoners were forced to stand for hours in all weather conditions. The reconstructed barracks offer a glimpse into the overcrowded and harsh living conditions endured daily by inmates.

Entrance to the Concentration Camp.

Entrance building seen from inside the compound.

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Roll-Call Square.

Displayed old photographs of roll-call.

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The memorial also includes museums and exhibitions containing photographs, documents, personal belongings, and survivor testimonies. Through these exhibits, visitors gain a deeper understanding of life inside the camp and the broader system of Nazi persecution. These historical records help ensure that the voices and experiences of those who suffered here are not forgotten.

Today, all the detention centres have been demolished leaving just one row for viewing by visitors.

After extensive walking through the site, we reached one of the most significant areas of the memorial: the crematorium complex, known as Barrack X. There, we saw the ovens and gas chamber that bear witness to the inhumane treatment carried out within the camp. Although Dachau was not primarily designed as an extermination camp like Auschwitz, it nonetheless became a place of immense suffering and death. The site serves as a stark reminder of the systematic cruelty used by the Nazi regime to terrorize and dehumanize millions of people.

Today, the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site stands as a powerful warning against hatred, racism, antisemitism, and authoritarianism. Visitors are often deeply affected by the experience, as it confronts them with the realities of human cruelty and the consequences of intolerance.

A statute outside the crematorium.

The inscription: In honour of the dead, as a reminder to the living.

Numerous watchtowers were positioned along the perimeter of the fenced compound. According to testimonies, any individual who entered the grass-covered zone adjacent to the fence risked being shot on sight, irrespective of whether an escape attempt was intended. Accounts also describe detainees who, driven to despair by prolonged torture and the harsh conditions of confinement, intentionally approached the fence, fully aware that doing so would likely result in their death.

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In addition to its historical exhibits, Dachau contains several religious and international memorials dedicated to the victims. Chapels, monuments, and sculptures honor individuals from different nations and faiths who were imprisoned and killed there. These memorials symbolize remembrance, mourning, and the enduring importance of human dignity.

Protestant Church of Reconciliation.

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At the end of the tour, I found a moment of quiet reflection in front of the memorial bearing the words “Never Again.”

By preserving this site and educating visitors, Dachau continues to promote remembrance and encourages societies to uphold human rights and ensure that such tragedies are never repeated.

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While Europe endured such horrors under the Nazi regime, Southeast Asia also experienced comparable suffering under Japanese occupation during the Second World War. One of the most tragic events of this period was the Nanjing Massacre. This led me to recall Zhang Chunru (Iris Chang), the Chinese American writer who authored The Rape of Nanking: The Forgotten Holocaust of World War II, a work that brought global attention to the atrocity and deeply shaped public understanding of it.

Sadly, she died by suicide in 2004 at the age of 36. Those close to her, along with biographers and journalists, have generally attributed her death to a combination of severe depression, intense psychological strain, physical exhaustion, and the emotional burden of her work. Her extensive research into the Nanjing Massacre - through graphic accounts, photographs, and survivor testimonies - appears to have taken a profound emotional toll.

A memorial statue was later erected not only to honor her efforts in giving voice to the victims of Nanjing, but also to commemorate her short life and lasting impact.

Photos downloaded from internet sites.

Unlike Germany, which has largely confronted and acknowledged the atrocities committed during the Nazi era, Japan’s wartime history remains a more contested and sensitive subject, continuing to cause tension with China to this day.