An Unforgettable Detour to Hokkaido's Historic Port Town, Otaru

After our stay in Furano, we made our way back to Sapporo on 14 July for our final night in Hokkaido before flying home the following day. Rather than heading directly to our Airbnb, we decided to make a short detour to Otaru, a charming port town that had not been included in our original itinerary.

That decision turned out to be one of the pleasant surprises of our journey. Otaru possesses a distinctive character quite unlike the other places we had visited in Hokkaido. With its well preserved historic buildings, picturesque canal, and streets lined with quaint shops, cafés, and glassware boutiques, the town exudes an old-time charm. Although our visit was brief, it was more than enough to convince us that Otaru is a destination well worth exploring. 

Our first stop was the Otaru Canal, a famous landmark of Otaru and a lasting reminder of the town's prosperous maritime heritage. Completed in 1923, this 1km long canal was originally built to allow small barges to transport cargo between large ships anchored offshore and the warehouses lining the waterfront. During the early 20th century, Otaru flourished as Hokkaido's principal trading port, handling coal, seafood, and goods from across Japan.

As modern port facilities developed after the Second World War, the canal gradually lost its commercial importance. In the 1960s, there were plans to fill it in to make way for roads, but strong public support for preserving Otaru's history led to the restoration of part of the canal instead. Today, the beautifully preserved stone warehouses have been transformed into cafés, restaurants, museums, shops, and hotels, while a cobblestone promenade provides a delightful setting for a leisurely stroll.

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From the canal, we made our way to Sakaimachi Street, Otaru's most famous tourist street and the vibrant heart of the city's historic district. Lined with beautifully preserved stone warehouses and elegant Western-style merchant buildings dating back to Otaru's prosperous trading era, the street exudes old-world charm. Today, these heritage buildings have been transformed into an attractive collection of souvenir shops, cafés, museums, and specialty stores. Like many visitors, we wandered into several of the shops to browse Otaru's renowned handcrafted glassware, admire the exquisite music boxes, and sample Hokkaido's famous confectioneries, including LeTAO's signature Double Fromage cheesecake.

What captivated me most, however, were several old buildings adorned with lush green façades, their walls almost completely blanketed by thick climbing vines. The sight instantly transported me back to October 2014, when we visited Giverny, the picturesque French village where the renowned Impressionist painter Claude Monet once lived. The vine-covered buildings evoked the same timeless beauty and tranquil atmosphere that had left such a lasting impression on us more than a decade ago (Read here).

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Before leaving Otaru, we stopped for lunch at Kita No Ryoba Otaru Unga Ten (北之渔场), a restaurant that specialises in fresh Hokkaido seafood. Among the dishes we ordered, my wife's clear favourite was the Kaisen-don (海鮮丼). The bowl featured an abundant assortment of premium sashimi - including salmon, tuna, scallops, prawns, and other seasonal seafood - beautifully arranged over a bed of rice. Every slice was remarkably fresh, showcasing the exceptional quality of Hokkaido's seafood. It was a simple yet memorable meal, and a fitting finale to our delightful visit to Otaru before returning to Sapporo for our last night in Hokkaido.

The Japanese Dining Experience: Patience, Queues and Quality Food at Country Kitchen Kazamidori, Furano

After dining at several restaurants in Sapporo, I came to appreciate that queuing to be called in is a normal part of the Japanese dining experience, especially at popular ramen shops, soup curry restaurants, sushi outlets, and seafood restaurants. Many Japanese restaurants are relatively small, with limited seating capacity, so customers patiently wait for their turn. These queues are not just for tourists; locals also willingly line up for restaurants that are well known for their quality and reputation. A waiting time of around 20 to 30 minutes is considered quite normal, while longer waits are common at especially popular establishments.

This experience continued when we visited Country Kitchen Kazamidori (風見鶏) in Furano. We arrived at 5:30 pm, well before its 6:00 pm opening time, yet a small crowd had already gathered ahead of us - a clear sign of the restaurant’s popularity. Located at a quiet countryside road junction, Kazamidori is a charming rural restaurant celebrated for its rustic atmosphere and dishes prepared with fresh local ingredients from Furano, Hokkaido.

The restaurant has a warm farmhouse character, featuring a cosy wooden interior decorated with countless handwritten messages left by previous visitors. These personal notes create a nostalgic and welcoming atmosphere, adding to the restaurant’s unique rural charm and making it a memorable stop for travellers exploring Furano.

Kazamidori specialises in yoshoku, Japanese-style Western cuisine that combines Western cooking techniques with Japanese flavours and local ingredients. Its signature dish is the Furano Cheese Fondue, made with locally produced cheese and served with bread and vegetables. Other popular dishes include baked curry, hamburg steak, beef stew, steak, and meals featuring fresh seasonal vegetables from the surrounding region.

A bit bored with the waiting for the food!

 

Hamberger Steak with Curry - A thick, juicy Japanese-style steak. Smothered in a deeply flavoured, rich Japanese curry sauce.

Chicken Steak Set Meal.

Beef stew set - A rich, savory Japanese-style beef stew slow-cooked in traditional black iron pot until the meat is melt in the mouth tender. Served with signature side plate of Furano grilled vegetables.

Steak Set - A pan-seared steak served with pumpkin cream soup. Come with a bowl of Furano grilled vegetables.

Furano Cheese Fondue with an assortment of Furano vegetables for dipping.

Tsuboyaki Curry - It features a rich, slowly simmered Japanese curry served inside a red ceramic pot. The top of the pot is sealed  with a layer of pizza dough that puffs up into a golden dome.

Our granddaughter, Grace too left a short message - pinned on a small board.

By the time we finished the meal, it's 7.20pm.

A Culinary Discovery in Furano: Savouring Premium Furano Wagyu at A Bientot

We first learned about A Bientot Furano, a restaurant in Furano, through a promotional brochure at the Airbnb where we were staying. Intrigued by its reputation, we decided to try it for dinner on 12 July. However, when we arrived, we were disappointed to learn that the restaurant was fully booked for the evening. The staff kindly informed us that we could return the following day, preferably before 5 pm, to avoid disappointment.

Determined not to miss the opportunity to experience this highly recommended restaurant, we decided instead to visit for lunch the next day. We arrived before opening time at 12 noon and were delighted to be the very first customers of the day.

A Bientot Furano is renowned for its premium Furano Wagyu sukiyaki. Rather than offering an extensive menu, the restaurant focuses on showcasing the exceptional quality of locally raised Furano Wagyu beef, one of Hokkaido’s finest regional specialties. Furano Wagyu is highly prized for its fine marbling, rich flavour and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness.

For our meal, we chose the traditional Japanese sukiyaki experience. Thin slices of Wagyu beef were gently simmered in a mildly sweet soy-based broth together with tofu, mushrooms, Chinese cabbage, onions and other fresh vegetables. Each slice of tender beef was then dipped into fresh raw egg before being savoured, creating a smooth and silky texture that enhanced the natural flavour of the meat. The broth, carefully prepared using premium Hokkaido kombu (kelp), provided a deep umami taste without being overly sweet.

It was a memorable dining experience that allowed us to appreciate the exceptional quality of Furano’s local produce and the artistry behind Japanese Wagyu cuisine.

Spiritual Landscape of Japan

When travelling through European countries, one cannot help but notice the abundance of old and magnificent church buildings. In contrast, when travelling in Japan, one rarely encounters church buildings. Instead, the religious landscape is shaped mainly by traditional Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. Among them, Shinto shrines are easily recognised by the distinctive Torii gate at their entrances. These shrines are often quietly integrated into the surroundings, found among forests, mountains, neighbourhoods, and even within busy urban areas.

Although it is widely acknowledged that many Japanese identify with Shinto traditions or Buddhism, it is difficult to determine the number of people who actively practise these religions in a regular and devoted manner. For many Japanese, religion is often less about strict belief or weekly worship and more closely connected with cultural traditions, life events, and respect for nature and ancestors.

During my visit to Japan, I did observe scenes that offered a glimpse into this quiet form of religious practice. In one morning, I saw a man - possibly on his way to work - making brief stop at a Shinto shrine. He stood before the altar, bowed twice, clapped the hands twice, bowed once again, and then left almost immediately. This simple act I believe was his way of seeking blessings before beginning the day.

Such observations reveal an important aspect of Japanese spirituality: it is often subtle, understated, and woven into daily life rather than expressed through large gatherings or imposing religious structures. While Europe’s religious heritage is often displayed through grand cathedrals and churches, Japan’s spiritual traditions are found in quieter spaces - through shrines, rituals, and a deep cultural connection with nature and tradition.

One of the things that has always impressed me while travelling around the world is encountering cities that are remarkably clean. I still remember being struck by how well the Russians kept their city clean during my visit to Moscow (Read here).

Japan, however, took this to another level. Throughout our journey, I hardly came across any public dustbins, yet the streets, parks and railway stations were exceptionally clean and virtually free of litter. I was told that most Japanese simply do not throw rubbish in public places. Instead, they keep their waste in their pockets or bags and carry it with them until they find an appropriate dustbin or rubbish bin. I personally witnessed this practice while waiting for Serene's family to arrive at Sapporo Airport. People patiently held on to their empty drink bottles, wrappers and other rubbish until they reached the designated disposal area.

Another distinctive feature of Japanese society is the custom of bowing. Whether greeting someone, expressing appreciation or acknowledging thanks, a respectful bow is an integral part of everyday interaction. It is a simple gesture, yet it conveys humility, respect and sincerity.

Are these admirable qualities - a commitment to keeping the environment clean and a culture of respect and gratitude - the result of Shinto beliefs, or are they simply enduring cultural values passed down through generations? Shinto, Japan's indigenous faith, places great emphasis on purity, cleanliness and respect for people and nature. Over many centuries, these values have become deeply woven into Japanese society, reinforced by family upbringing, schools and social expectations. Today, regardless of whether a person actively practises Shinto, these behaviours have become hallmarks of Japanese culture and are admired by visitors from around the world.

Torii Gate.

Shirahige Waterfall and the Tokachidake Volcano Experience

Immediately after our visit to the Blue Pond, we drove another 3km to Shirahige Waterfall, one of Hokkaido's most picturesque natural attractions. The waterfall derives its name from the countless thin streams of water that emerge from cracks in the rocky cliff, resembling the flowing white beard of an elderly man. Unlike most waterfalls, where water plunges over the edge of a river, Shirahige Waterfall is a groundwater waterfall. Mineral-rich underground water naturally springs through the volcanic rock before cascading about 30m into the Biei River below.

To enjoy the best view of the waterfall, we stopped midway along the Blue River Bridge. From this vantage point, we admired the white streams cascading into the brilliant blue waters of the Biei River, while taking in the panoramic backdrop of the Tokachidake mountain range.

After crossing the bridge, we climbed the long covered staircase leading uphill to the Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center (also known as the Tokachidake Volcanic Gallery - VOLGA). More than just a museum, the centre serves both as an educational facility for visitors and as a disaster-monitoring centre for the active Tokachidake volcanic range.

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That wasn't an easy climb. Finally, after 286 steps, we reached the top where Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center is situated. 

Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center.

A picture on display at the centre showing the flow of lahars.

Inside the Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center, we gained a deeper understanding of Mount Tokachi, one of Japan's most active volcanoes. Through informative displays, photographs, videos and interactive exhibits, we learnt about the geological history of the Tokachidake volcanic range and the science behind volcanic eruptions. Scale models demonstrated how eruptions occur, how volcanic mudflows develop, and how scientists continuously monitor volcanic activity using seismic sensors, surveillance cameras and rainfall gauges. The information collected enables authorities to issue timely warnings and coordinate emergency responses when necessary.

While volcanic eruptions are often associated with flowing lava, one of the greatest hazards in this region is the occurrence of lahars - fast-moving mixtures of volcanic ash, rocks, mud, snow and water that can surge down valleys with devastating force. To protect nearby communities, roads and tourist attractions, the Japanese government has constructed an extensive network of erosion and sediment-control structures. The centre explains how these dams and barriers help reduce the destructive impact of volcanic mudflows and safeguard lives and property.

Outside the building, an observation area offers magnificent panoramic views of Mount Tokachi, where steam can sometimes be seen rising from the volcano on clear days. The centre also serves as an emergency headquarters during periods of heightened volcanic activity, supporting evacuation planning, disaster management and public safety. Our visit provided not only a fascinating insight into the powerful geological forces that have shaped Hokkaido, but also a deeper appreciation of Japan's remarkable commitment to disaster preparedness and resilience.

Coincidentally, news reports yesterday revealed that 34 people had been killed when a powerful earthquake struck Kumamoto Prefecture in Japan's southern island of Kyushu on 28 July. It was a sobering reminder that Japan lies on the Pacific Ring of Fire, making it one of the world's most seismically and volcanically active countries (Read here)!

Biei's Blue Pond: More Green Than Blue

Soon after breakfast at our Airbnb in Furano on 13 July, we set off for Biei to visit the famous Blue Pond, one of Hokkaido's most celebrated natural attractions. Renowned for its striking blue water and tranquil surroundings, the pond has become an iconic destination that draws visitors from around the world.

The Blue Pond in actual fact is not a natural lake. It was formed accidentally in the late 1980s when a dam was built to protect nearby communities from volcanic mudflows originating from Mount Tokachi. Water gradually collected behind the dam, creating the pond seen today. Over time, nature transformed this man-made reservoir into one of Japan's most picturesque landscapes.

The pond's remarkable colour is the result of a natural phenomenon. Mineral-rich water containing fine aluminium particles mixes with the crystal-clear water of the Biei River. These tiny particles scatter sunlight, particularly the blue wavelengths, giving the pond its famous turquoise hue. However, its colour is never constant. Depending on the weather, the angle of the sun and the viewing position, the water may appear vivid blue, emerald green or even grey.

When we finally arrived and gazed upon the pond, it was more green than blue! Instead of the brilliant azure often seen in photographs, the water had a soft emerald tint. It instantly reminded me of Peyto Lake in the Canadian Rockies, which I visited in September 2017 during our memorable drive from Banff to Jasper (Read here). Although they are formed in very different ways, both bodies of water possess an almost surreal beauty created by the minerals suspended in the water.

Adding to the pond's charm are the pale, leafless larch trees rising silently from the water. These trees were submerged when the pond was formed and have remained standing ever since, creating an ethereal landscape that has become the Blue Pond's signature.

The Blue Pond publicized in an advertisement.

The surroundings of the Blue Pond were surprisingly lush and green. Beyond the pond itself, the area was carpeted with a rich variety of flowering plants, wild grasses and dense woodland, creating a refreshing natural setting. Delicate wildflowers added splashes of colour along the walking paths, while butterflies, dragonflies and other tiny insects hovered gracefully among the blossoms. The gentle buzz of insects and the rustling of leaves in the breeze enhanced the tranquil atmosphere, making the visit as much about appreciating the surrounding ecosystem as admiring the famous pond itself. It was a peaceful reminder that the Blue Pond is not just a single scenic attraction, but part of a vibrant and thriving natural landscape.