Summer Palace

It was 3:30 p.m. by the time we arrived at the lakeside to begin our tour of the Summer Palace on 23 May 2026, following our climb of the Great Wall earlier that day.

The Summer Palace (Yíhéyuán, 颐和园) is one of the most renowned imperial gardens in Beijing and a masterpiece of traditional Chinese landscape design. Originally constructed in 1750 during the reign of the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty, it was designed as a luxurious imperial retreat where emperors and their families could escape both the summer heat and the pressures of court life in the Forbidden City. The entire complex was conceived in accordance with classical Chinese aesthetics, emphasizing harmony between architecture, water, hills, and gardens, and the ideal balance between human creation and the natural world.

Covering approximately 2.9 square kilometres, about three-quarters of which is water, the Summer Palace is centered on Kunming Lake and Longevity Hill. Kunming Lake was modelled after the famed West Lake in Hangzhou and serves as the tranquil heart of the grounds. One particularly fascinating feature of the site is that Longevity Hill is not entirely natural. A smaller hill, originally known as Jar Hill, already existed on the site, but during the palace’s construction, large quantities of earth excavated from the expansion of Kunming Lake were used to reshape and elevate it into its present form. This transformation reflects the traditional Chinese “mountain–water” philosophy, in which hills and lakes are deliberately arranged to create a balanced and harmonious landscape.

Our tour began with a boat ride across Kunming Lake. The experience was both serene and breathtaking, with sweeping views of the Long Seventeen-Arch Bridge, the lakeshore, and the graceful willows lining the water, all coming together to form a vivid and picturesque scene.

Just before concluding the boat ride, we passed by the Marble Boat, a decorative stone structure symbolizing stability and permanence.

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After disembarking from the boat, we walked along a long covered corridor - stretching more than 700 meters along the lakeshore. It is decorated with thousands of painted scenes from Chinese mythology, literature, and nature. 

We climbed the two flights of long staircase to reach the platform just below the Tower of Buddhist Incense constructed on the Longevity Hill. From there, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the lake and the surrounding gardens.

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As we gathered to leave the Summer Palace, we passed in front of the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity. Standing at its entrance were two bronze statues, one of a phoenix and the other of a dragon. In Chinese symbolism, the phoenix, or Fenghuang, represents the Empress, while the dragon symbolizes the Emperor, together reflecting the balance, harmony, and complementary power of the imperial couple.

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The Summer Palace suffered major damage during the Second Opium War when Anglo-French forces looted and destroyed parts of it in 1860. It was later rebuilt under Empress Dowager Cixi, who famously diverted naval funds for restoration, making the palace a symbol of both imperial grandeur and political controversy.

Today, the Summer Palace is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in 1998. It is more than just a palace, it represents the artistic peak of Chinese garden architecture and offers a vivid glimpse into imperial China’s refined lifestyle and worldview.

A Memorable Finale in Beijing - Climbing Mutianyu Great Wall of China

Our final day in Beijing, on 23 May 2026, was spent visiting two iconic landmarks - the Great Wall of China at Mutianyu and the Summer Palace.

Our first destination was the Mutianyu Great Wall. This brought back memories of our earlier visit in December 2000, when we climbed the Great Wall at Badaling. At that time, Badaling was promoted as the most famous restored section of the Great Wall, located about 70 km northwest of Beijing. Built during the Ming dynasty, it served as a vital defense protecting the northern approaches to the capital. With its fully restored walls, paved access roads, cable cars, souvenir shops, and well-developed visitor facilities, Badaling became the standard destination for both domestic and international tour groups from the 1980s through the 2000s. Its status was further elevated by visits from many world leaders, whose photographs at the Wall became iconic.

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Today, Badaling remains historically significant, but it is no longer the preferred choice for many travelers. The main reason is overcrowding - especially during peak holiday periods, when the experience can feel congested and highly commercialized. Like many modern visitors, we chose the quieter and more scenic Mutianyu section instead. Still, the crowd was huge that morning. Mutianyu Great Wall (慕田峪长城) is also about 70km from Beijing, but at the northeast instead.

Mutianyu Great Wall (慕田峪长城) is one of the best-preserved and most scenic sections of the Great Wall of China, located in the forested hills of Beijing’s Huairou District, about 70–75 km northeast of the city center. Originally built during the Northern Qi dynasty in the 6th century and extensively rebuilt during the Ming dynasty, Mutianyu formed an important defensive barrier guarding the northern approaches to the imperial capital.

What makes Mutianyu especially remarkable is its combination of historical authenticity and natural beauty. The wall winds dramatically along steep mountain ridges, surrounded by dense forests of pine, cypress, and seasonal foliage. In spring and summer, the hills are lush green; in autumn, the landscape transforms into brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold, making it one of the most photogenic sections of the Great Wall.

Mutianyu is also known for its impressive architecture. This section features 23 watchtowers spread across roughly 5.4 km of restored wall, with many towers positioned closely together because of the strategic importance of the area. Unlike some other restored sections, Mutianyu retains a more peaceful and less commercial atmosphere, allowing visitors to better appreciate the scale and engineering of the Wall.

Mutianyu too offers modern conveniences such as a cable car, chairlift, and the popular toboggan ride down the mountain, making the visit accessible and enjoyable for families, seniors, and hikers alike. 

Unlike our visit in year 2000, age had clearly caught up with us, and this time the walk along the Great Wall was no longer as easy. The steep stone steps, uneven pathways, and constant inclines demanded far more effort than we remembered. We moved carefully and cautiously, sometimes holding onto the side walls for extra stability and balance.

Yet, despite the physical challenge, every step felt worthwhile. Standing atop the Great Wall once again, surrounded by breathtaking mountain views and centuries of history, brought a deep sense of accomplishment and gratitude. It reminded us not only of how much time had passed since our first visit, but also of how fortunate we were to return and experience this wonder again.

Reaching the end of our walk felt like another meaningful achievement - one earned with determination, patience, and a little perseverance. More importantly, it became a joyful shared experience, filled with laughter, encouragement, and unforgettable memories. Tiring as it was, we thoroughly enjoyed every moment, making this return to the Great Wall both rewarding and special.

Savoring Peking Duck in Beijing

We had told ourselves that we simply had to try Peking duck in Beijing before flying home. On the evening of 22 May 2026, after our visit to the Forbidden City, we were joined by Daniel, the grandnephew of Patrick and Jenny from the UK, who is pursuing a Master’s in Business Studies through a programme twinned with Peking University.

He kindly took us to Hongbinlou (鸿宾楼) at Crowne Plaza Beijing Chaoyang, which was conveniently close to our accommodation and is well known for its excellent Peking duck. Before long, the much-anticipated dish arrived. The chef personally carved the duck in front of us, skillfully slicing the crispy skin and tender meat with remarkable precision.

Peking duck is one of China’s most celebrated culinary treasures, originating from Beijing and renowned for its crispy skin, tender meat, and rich flavor. More than just a roast duck dish, Peking duck is a complete culinary experience that reflects Chinese cooking traditions, meticulous preparation, and the philosophy of making full use of every ingredient. Traditionally served in multiple courses, one duck can be transformed into several dishes rather than being presented as a single meal.

The preparation of Peking duck is highly specialized. The duck is carefully cleaned, seasoned, and often glazed with maltose syrup before being air-dried. It is then roasted in a special oven until the skin turns golden, thin, and crisp, while the meat remains juicy and flavorful. This roasting process gives Peking duck its distinctive aroma, texture, and irresistible taste.

As is customary, the chef first carved the beautifully roasted duck in front of us, skillfully slicing the bird with great precision. He then served us the most prized part of the meal - the crispy duck skin, widely regarded as the highlight of Peking duck. In our case, the skin was elegantly presented on small toasted bread squares, allowing us to fully appreciate its delicate crackle, rich flavor, and melt-in-the-mouth texture. It could also be enjoyed with a light dip of fine sugar, which enhanced its sweetness and crispness.

The dish was accompanied by the classic ingredients for duck pancake wraps: soft pancakes, thin slices of roasted duck meat, freshly cut cucumber sticks, finely shredded scallions, and sweet bean sauce. Wrapping these together created a wonderful combination of savory richness, subtle sweetness, refreshing crunch, and soft texture, making this the signature way to enjoy Peking duck.

After the premium slices had been served, the bones and carcass were taken back to the kitchen and carefully simmered into a rich, flavorful soup with cabbage and tofu. The comforting broth, infused with the deep roasted essence of the duck, was delicious. Each spoonful carried a delicate sweetness from the cabbage and a silky softness from the tofu. It provided the perfect, satisfying finale to an exceptional meal, bringing our memorable Peking duck dining experience to a warm and delightful close.

Eggplant with Pepper.

Forbidden City after 25 Years

From the Temple of Heaven, we proceeded to our next destination - the Forbidden City. Similar to our visit 25 years ago, before entering the Forbidden City, we paused at Tiananmen Square to take in the vastness of this enormous public space - one of the largest public squares in the world and a significant political and historical landmark in modern China. Surrounded by monumental government buildings, the square serves as the principal venue for national ceremonies and major public events. In the distance stood the iconic Gate of Heavenly Peace (天安门), prominently displaying the large portrait of Mao Zedong, an enduring symbol of modern Chinese history.

25 years ago, we managed to visit the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong situated at the centre of the Tiananmen Square. This is the final resting place for Mao Zedong.

Beyond Tiananmen lies the Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum, one of China’s most significant historical landmarks and a symbol of imperial authority. Located in the heart of Beijing, it served as the political and ceremonial center of China for nearly 500 years, housing 24 emperors of the Ming dynasty and Qing dynasty. Built between 1406 and 1420 during the reign of the Yongle Emperor, the vast palace complex covers about 720,000 square metres and contains hundreds of buildings with nearly 9,000 rooms.

We entered through the imposing Meridian Gate (午门), the grand southern entrance to the palace. The Forbidden City is arranged along a strict north-south central axis and divided into two main sections: the Outer Court, used for state ceremonies and official affairs, and the Inner Court, reserved for the emperor and the royal household.

Just outside the Meridian Gate (Wumen), the southern gate

25 years ago just outside the Wumen, the southern gate.

Immediately after entering the Meridian Gate (Wumen), we crossed the five white marble bridges, known as the Inner Golden Water Bridges, which span the artificial Inner Golden Water River. From there, we proceeded toward the Gate of Supreme Harmony, beyond which lies the vast square of the Outer Court, home to the three great ceremonial halls.

The Hall of Supreme Harmony is the largest and most important building in the Forbidden City. It was used for major imperial ceremonies such as coronations, royal weddings, and New Year celebrations. Its elevated marble terrace and elaborate dragon motifs symbolized the emperor’s supreme authority.

Behind it stands the Hall of Central Harmony, where the emperor rested and prepared before important ceremonies. Further north is the Hall of Preserving Harmony, which was used for imperial banquets and later served as the venue for the highest-level imperial examinations.

A large crowd, with umbrellas in hand to shield themselves from the rain, gathered just outside the Gate of the Hall of Supreme Harmony on the morning of 23 May 2026.

Outside the Gate of Supreme Harmony (Taihemen) stand two impressive bronze guardian lions, symbols of protection and imperial authority. The male lion, positioned on the right when facing the gate, rests his paw on a decorative ball, representing imperial power, control over the world, and the unity of the empire. The female lion, on the left, places her paw on a lion cub, symbolizing fertility, prosperity, and the continuity of the imperial lineage. Together, they embody both strength and nurturing power, guarding the entrance against evil spirits and unwanted influences. Their fierce expressions, curly manes, muscular forms, and ornate collars emphasize their status and grandeur. Although lions are not native to China, their image was introduced through Buddhist influence from India and Central Asia. Over time, guardian lions became important architectural symbols in palaces, temples, and official buildings throughout imperial China.

At the Gate of Supreme Harmony (Taihemen) 25 years ago.

Beyond the ceremonial zone lies the Inner Court, which offers a glimpse into the more private and domestic side of imperial life. At its center stands the Palace of Heavenly Purity, which served as both the emperor’s residence and an important administrative hub where state affairs were often conducted. Behind it is the Hall of Union, a smaller yet symbolically significant structure that housed the imperial seals and represented the harmonious balance between heaven and earth. Completing the central residential axis is the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, traditionally associated with the empress and reflecting her role within the imperial household.

Unfortunately, our guide moved through the section where the emperor’s concubines once lived rather quickly, giving us little time to properly observe or appreciate this part of the Inner Court. As a result, we missed the opportunity to gain a fuller understanding of the living quarters and daily lives of the women who played significant roles within the imperial court.

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At the northern end lies the Imperial Garden, a beautifully designed retreat with ancient cypress trees, pavilions, and decorative rock formations that offered relaxation to the imperial family. Today, the Forbidden City remains a masterpiece of architecture and history, offering visitors a remarkable glimpse into the grandeur, rituals, and authority of China’s emperors.

A pavilion in the Imperial garden.

At the Imperial Garden, many stopped to take photo at the Lianli Cypress (also called the Consort Pine), features intertwined branches of two trees, symbolizing eternal harmony between emperor and empress.

Our tour of the Forbidden City finally concluded at the Mountain of Accumulated Excellence (Duixiu Shan), located in the northern section of the Imperial Garden. This impressive 10-m-high artificial stone hill was carefully constructed to enhance the garden’s landscape and symbolic grandeur. At its summit stands the Imperial Prospect Pavilion (Yujing Ting), offering an elevated vantage point over the palace grounds.

Historically, during the Double Ninth Festival, the emperor, empress, and imperial concubines would ascend the hill to the pavilion to enjoy the panoramic views and celebrate the occasion. The tradition of climbing to a high place during this festival symbolized longevity, good fortune, and protection from misfortune.