Revisit Fisherman's Bastian Budapest - Matthias Church

Since disembarking from our river cruise on 16 May 2026, we had been exploring the Pest side of Budapest, east of the Danube. The following morning, 17 May 2026, we decided to cross the river to the Buda side to revisit the iconic Fisherman's Bastion.

Unlike our visit eight years earlier (Read here), when a tourist bus dropped us almost at the foot of the grand staircase leading to the complex, this time we travelled by public tram. The tram stopped at the bottom of the hill, requiring a fairly steep uphill walk to reach the site. However, the walk itself proved to be a rewarding experience, allowing us to appreciate the charm of the Castle District and the surrounding neighbourhood before arriving at this popular attraction.

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Fisherman's Bastion is one of Budapest's most famous landmarks, renowned for its fairy-tale appearance and spectacular views over the Danube River and the city beyond. Although it resembles a medieval fortress, it was actually built between 1895 and 1902 as part of Hungary's millennium celebrations, commemorating 1,000 years since the Magyar tribes settled in the Carpathian Basin.

Designed in the Neo-Romanesque style, the structure serves primarily as a viewing terrace rather than a defensive fortification. Its seven distinctive towers symbolize the seven Magyar tribes that founded Hungary. The bastion's name is derived from the medieval fishermen's guild, which was responsible for defending this section of the city walls during the Middle Ages.

The Bastion offers one of the finest panoramic views in Budapest. From its terraces, visitors can admire the majestic Hungarian Parliament Building, the Danube River, and several of the city's historic bridges. At the centre stands an impressive equestrian statue of Stephen I, Hungary's first king. Adjacent to the bastion is the beautiful Matthias Church, famous for its colourful tiled roof and rich historical significance.

Located within Budapest's UNESCO-listed Castle District, Fisherman's Bastion remains a powerful symbol of Hungarian heritage, architecture, and national identity. It continues to attract countless visitors who come to enjoy its stunning vistas, take photographs, and experience the magic of Budapest by day or night.

Having visited the site eight years earlier, we noticed that it has become considerably more commercialised. New eateries and shopping facilities have sprung up around Matthias Church, catering to the ever-growing number of tourists. While these developments have added convenience for visitors, they have also altered some of the quieter charm we remembered from our previous visit.

Hilton Hotel at right.

During our previous visit in September 2018, we were able to explore the interior of Matthias Church. This time, however, the main entrance was closed and visitors were not permitted to enter the church.

The Great Synagogue of Budapest

After visiting the Sunday Farmers' Market at Szimpla Kert, we continued our stroll through the neighborhood until a poster caught our eye. It read, "Dohány Synagogue: 6-in-1 Experience." Intrigued, we decided to purchase entrance tickets and spend the rest of the afternoon exploring this historic site.

Dohany Synagogue, also known as the Great Synagogue, is one of the most important Jewish landmarks in Europe. Located in the historic Jewish Quarter of Budapest, it is the largest synagogue in Europe and among the largest active synagogues in the world, with seating for nearly 3,000 people.

Built between 1854 and 1859, the synagogue is famous for its distinctive Moorish Revival architecture. Its twin onion-domed towers, decorative brick façade, and richly ornamented interior make it one of Budapest’s most recognizable buildings. Unlike many traditional synagogues, it features a large organ and choir, reflecting the customs of Hungary’s Neolog Jewish community. Neolog Judaism is a branch of Judaism that developed in the 19th century in the former Kingdom of Hungary. It emerged as a movement that sought to modernize Jewish religious life while preserving Jewish traditions and identity.

The synagogue complex has deep historical significance. During World War II, the synagogue lay on the edge of the Budapest Ghetto, where thousands of Jews suffered persecution and death. Because regular burials were impossible during this period, a cemetery was established within the synagogue grounds.

The complex includes the Hungarian Jewish Museum, the Heroes’ Temple, a cemetery, and the Holocaust Memorial Garden. One of its most moving features is the Tree of Life Memorial, a metal weeping willow sculpture engraved with the names of Holocaust victims.

Restored in the 1990s, the synagogue remains an active place of worship, a cultural venue, and a powerful symbol of Jewish heritage, remembrance, and resilience in Hungary.

Cemetry.

Tree of Life Memorial.

Among the well-known Hungarian Jews featured in the exhibit were actress Zsa Zsa Gabor and actor Paul Newman.

Today, Budapest remains the center of Jewish life in Hungary. According to our tour guide, the city is home to an estimated 80,000 to 100,000 Jewish residents, making it one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. The community continues to play an active role in sectors such as business, finance, technology, healthcare, education, tourism, and the creative industries. The historic Jewish Quarter, centered around the Dohány Street Synagogue, has evolved into a vibrant cultural and tourist destination. It not only preserves the rich heritage and traditions of Hungarian Jewry but also contributes significantly to Budapest’s contemporary cultural and economic life.

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That evening, we had dinner at the restaurant in Danubius Hotel Astoria, which was within walking distance of our accommodation. One of Budapest’s most historic hotels, the Danubius Hotel Astoria opened in 1914 and seamlessly blends early twentieth-century elegance with modern comforts. Its beautifully preserved architecture and timeless atmosphere offer a glimpse into the city’s rich cultural heritage, making it a memorable setting for our evening meal.

An Unexpected Visit to Budapest's Most Unique Sunday Market

Our first full day in Budapest, on 17 May 2026, began after we had disembarked from our cruise the previous day. It was a Sunday, and despite the steady morning rain, we were determined to explore the city. Armed with umbrellas and raincoats, we made our way to Elizabeth Square, one of the liveliest and most central locations in Budapest.

Dominating the square was the Budapest Eye, the giant Ferris wheel that has become one of the city's most recognizable landmarks. Rising above the surrounding buildings, it offers sweeping views of the Hungarian capital and serves as a focal point for both locals and visitors.

Nearby, we came across an outdoor exhibition featuring photographs and biographies of distinguished Hungarians whose achievements have left a lasting mark on the world. Among them was Ernő Rubik, the inventor of the world-famous Rubik's Cube, a puzzle that has challenged and fascinated generations. Also featured was Albert Szent-Györgyi, the scientist who discovered Vitamin C and received the Nobel Prize for his groundbreaking contributions to medicine. Another prominent figure was Katalin Karikó, whose pioneering research on mRNA technology laid the foundation for the development of COVID-19 vaccines, work that earned her the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine.

The exhibition was a reminder of Hungary's remarkable contributions to science, innovation, and human progress. Standing there in the heart of Budapest, beneath grey skies and falling rain, we gained a deeper appreciation of how this relatively small nation has produced individuals whose discoveries and inventions have improved the lives of millions around the world. It was an inspiring start to our exploration of this beautiful and historic city.

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As we continued our walk through the city, we unexpectedly stumbled upon the Sunday Farmers' Market at Szimpla Kert, one of Budapest's most unique and charming weekend attractions. Housed within the city's famous ruin bar, the market takes place every Sunday morning, transforming what is normally a vibrant nightlife venue into a bustling community marketplace.

The market showcased an impressive array of local and regional produce. Stalls overflowed with fresh fruits and vegetables, artisan cheeses, homemade breads, honey, jams, pickles, sausages, and a tempting selection of traditional Hungarian delicacies. There were also handcrafted products and natural goods created by local artisans. Many vendors generously offered samples, inviting visitors to savour their products and discover the rich flavours of Hungary.

One stall caught our attention when the vendor offered us a small taste of traditional Hungarian goulash soup. Rich, hearty, and full of flavour, it was impossible to resist. After a few spoonfuls, we promptly ordered a bowl and enjoyed it right there in the lively market atmosphere. 

In fact, goulash soup wasn’t new to us - we first tried it about eight years earlier during a visit to the Central Market Hall in Budapest (Read here).

Szimpla Kert's interior is unlike anything I had seen before. The building exudes a  bohemian character, with its faded century-old walls, colourful graffiti, mismatched vintage furniture, and an eclectic collection of artwork and quirky decorations. Every corner seemed to reveal another curious object or creative installation, giving the place a unique personality that was both nostalgic and whimsical.

This unconventional setting provided a backdrop unlike any traditional farmers' market. Locals and tourists wandered through the maze of stalls, browsing fresh produce and artisanal products while enjoying freshly brewed coffee, pastries, and hearty brunch dishes. The atmosphere was relaxed and lively, enhanced by the sounds of live music drifting through the various rooms and courtyards.

Although the market has become increasingly popular with visitors, it remains a cherished gathering place for Budapest residents. For us, it was a delightful and unexpected discovery - a place where market, cultural attraction, and social hub seamlessly come together. It proved to be a memorable experiences of our Sunday morning in Budapest.

A Tale of Two Stays: Budapest and Munich - Misleading Listing and Poor Property Management

Our tour did not end upon disembarking from the river cruise on the morning of 16 May 2026. Having enjoyed the cruise, we had planned to extend our stay by another four nights in Budapest.

What seemed like a straightforward arrangement soon turned into an unexpected challenge. Finding our booked Airbnb, located in the heart of Budapest, proved to be far from easy. In fact, it felt very much like trying to solve a complicated jigsaw puzzle with several missing pieces.

To begin with, we only received the self-check-in instructions a few minutes before the stipulated check-in time. The process required us to walk to a different street altogether to retrieve the keys from a lockbox before making our way back to the apartment main entrance door. For four senior travellers unfamiliar with such arrangements, the instructions were anything but intuitive. We found ourselves deciphering messages, matching landmarks, and trying to determine whether we were at the correct location.

To make matters worse, the entire exercise unfolded in the middle of a steady rain. Laden with luggage and umbrellas, we trudged from one location to another, trying to follow the directions while keeping ourselves and our belongings dry. What should have been a simple check-in became a frustrating and exhausting ordeal.

Looking back, the experience was both mind-boggling and torturous. Yet, once we finally gained access to the apartment and settled in, it became another memorable episode of our travels - one of those unexpected adventures that, although stressful at the time, would later provide plenty of stories and laughter to share.

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Once we had settled into the Budapest apartment, we were relieved to find that the facilities matched what had been advertised on the booking platform. Everything was as described, and the apartment proved comfortable and suitable for our extended stay. The experience immediately reminded us of the nightmare we had endured at the very first accommodation we booked in Munich.

Our Munich accommodation had been reserved for four nights, but unfortunately the experience turned out to be one of the most disappointing and shocking aspects of our European journey. The property suffered from serious shortcomings in cleanliness, maintenance, facilities, and privacy.

Upon arrival on 5 May 2026, it was immediately apparent that the property had not been properly prepared for incoming guests. Several common areas appeared to be occupied by the host's or staff's personal belongings. The shoe rack was already filled with shoes, leaving no room for guests to store their own. Clothes hangers were occupied by jackets and bags, while the living room sofa was cluttered with personal items belonging to the host's staff. To our surprise, we also found a tray containing cigarette butts beneath the sofa, suggesting that the property had not been thoroughly cleaned prior to our arrival. To make matters worse, the washing machine contained laundry that had apparently been left behind by the staff. The overall impression was that we had walked into someone's private living quarters rather than a professionally managed guest accommodation.

The standard of cleanliness was equally disappointing. The kitchen dustbin was overflowing with food scraps and rubbish, attracting flies and emitting an unpleasant odour. This was the condition in which we found the property at check-in, raising immediate concerns about hygiene and housekeeping standards.

The accommodation itself presented numerous maintenance and usability issues. The mattress on the advertised double bed was noticeably smaller than the bed frame, making it uncomfortable to use. The door to one of the bedrooms could not be fully opened, creating difficulties when moving luggage in and out of the room. The bedroom curtain was too narrow to cover the entire window, allowing substantial amounts of outside light to enter during the night and affecting the quality of our sleep.

Privacy was also compromised. One of the bathroom door locks was broken and could not be secured when in use. In addition, a leaking heater in one of the bedrooms caused water to accumulate on the floor, creating both an inconvenience and a potential slipping hazard.

Based on our observations, we felt that the property's condition, cleanliness, maintenance, and facilities bore little resemblance to the description and photographs displayed on the booking platform. The reality fell far short of what had been advertised.

As a result of these concerns, we concluded that we could not continue our stay at the property. However, by the time we discovered the extent of the problems, it was already late in the evening, leaving us with little choice but to spend the night there. Had we arrived earlier and been aware of the conditions, we would have left immediately and sought alternative accommodation.

After enduring one uncomfortable night, we checked out the following morning. Before departing, we discussed the various issues with the property's management, who acknowledged our concerns and did not object when we informed them of our intention to seek a refund for the three unused nights.

However, much to our disappointment, the refund request was later rejected when it was formally submitted through the booking platform.

While every traveller's expectations may differ, we would encourage prospective guests to carefully review all available information before making a booking. In our view, the property was not presented in the condition that a reasonable guest would expect upon arrival, and our experience fell significantly short of the standards and representations outlined in the listing.

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Photo of what's published in booking platform site.

Left: What's published in booking site. Right: What's actually offered at check-in.

Left: What's published in booking site. Right: Actual condition at check-in.

Left: What's published in booking site. Right: Actual condition at check-in.

Left: What's published in booking site. Right: Actual condition at check-in.

Left: What's published in booking site. Right: Actual condition at check-in.

Left: What's published in booking site. Right: Actual condition at check-in.

Water leaks from a heater in one of the bedrooms.