Sapporo Beer Museum

The morning of 11 July was spent exploring the Sapporo Beer Museum, one of Sapporo’s most popular cultural attractions. The museum offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the history of one of Japan’s oldest beer brands. Housed in a historic red-brick brewery building, it traces the development of Sapporo Beer from its beginnings in 1876 during the Meiji era, when Hokkaido was being developed with the help of German brewing expertise.

The museum showcases how beer production became an important industry in Hokkaido. We viewed old brewing equipment, historic advertisements, vintage bottles, packaging, and displays explaining the beer-making process.

For a fee, we also enjoyed the beer tasting experience at the Star Hall, where we sampled several popular Sapporo beers - the Sapporo Draft Beer, Sapporo Classic (a Hokkaido-only favourite), and a Kaitakushi Beer - a historical lager. It was both a memorable and fun way to appreciate both the history and unique flavours of this iconic Hokkaido brand.

The youngsters were not left out either - they joined in the fun by enjoying alcohol-free beverages.

The Star Hall.

Discovering Hokkaido's Past: From the Hokkaido Museum to the Historical Village

Our tour of Hokkaido was not just about enjoying delicious food and breathtaking scenery. We also made time for an educational experience. In the afternoon of 10 July, we visited the Hokkaido Museum in Sapporo, which provided an excellent introduction to the history, nature and people of Japan's northernmost island.

More than a collection of historical artefacts, the museum tells the story of Hokkaido from prehistoric times to the present day. We learnt about the island's unique geology, volcanoes, diverse wildlife, early human settlements, and the transformation of Hokkaido following the Meiji period. It gave us a much deeper appreciation of the places we had been visiting throughout our journey.

Japan is often perceived as one of the world's most ethnically homogeneous nations, unlike many other Asian countries that are distinctly multicultural and multi-ethnic. Yet one of the museum's most fascinating sections introduced us to the Ainu, the indigenous people of Hokkaido. Long before Japanese settlement, the Ainu lived in close harmony with nature, relying on fishing, hunting and gathering for their livelihood. Their beliefs reflected a profound respect for the natural world, with rivers, forests, bears and salmon regarded as gifts from the spiritual beings, or kamuy.

The museum also presents the more difficult chapters of Ainu history. Following the settlement of Hokkaido by the Japanese in the late 19th century, many Ainu people lost their traditional lands and experienced discrimination and strong pressures to assimilate into mainstream Japanese society. Today, however, there is growing recognition of the Ainu as Japan's indigenous people, and significant efforts are being made to preserve and revitalise their language, traditions and cultural heritage.

Our visit to the Hokkaido Museum reminded us that travel is not only about seeing beautiful places or tasting local cuisine. It is also about understanding the people, cultures and histories that have shaped those places. Learning about the Ainu added a meaningful chapter of our Hokkaido journey.

The exhibit is believed to be a fossilized lower jaw with molar teeth, belonging to Naumann’s elephant (Palaeoloxodon naumanni), an Ice Age elephant that lived in Japan about 350,000 to 24,000 years ago. Its large, ridged molars were adapted for grinding vegetation. Standing around 2.5m-3m tall, this prehistoric elephant coexisted with other Ice Age animals.

Among the highlights were displays of traditional Ainu clothing woven from natural fibres, hunting and fishing implements, beautifully carved wooden utensils, ceremonial objects, musical instruments, and models of the cise, the traditional Ainu house. Interactive exhibits and multimedia presentations provided further insights into Ainu customs, family life, beliefs and artistic traditions, while also showcasing ongoing efforts to preserve the Ainu language.

Overall, the Hokkaido Museum provides far more than a collection of exhibits. It helps us understand how the island's landscape, wildlife and diverse peoples have shaped its identity over the years.

The cise is the traditional house of the Ainu people.

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From the Hokkaido Museum, we continued to the nearby Historical Village of Hokkaido, an open-air museum covering 54 hectares. The village features more than 50 historic buildings that have been relocated from different parts of the island and carefully preserved to showcase the architecture and way of life during Hokkaido's pioneering era, from the late 19th to the early 20th century.

The village is divided into four districts: the Town Area, Farming Village, Fishing Village, and Mountain Village. We spent a leisurely afternoon wandering from building to building, exploring traditional homes, shops, a post office, a police station, and other restored structures. Many of them are furnished with original household items, tools, and everyday artefacts, providing a fascinating glimpse into the lives of Hokkaido's early settlers more than a century ago.

The Historical Village of Hokkaido offers an engaging journey through the island's rich history and cultural heritage. Together with the nearby Hokkaido Museum, it provided us with a deeper appreciation of how Hokkaido developed into the vibrant region it is today.

Former Kondo Dye Shop.

We ended our tour of the Historical Village of Hokkaido at the Former Kondo Dye Shop. Originally established in Asahikawa in 1898, the building was relocated and reconstructed in the village to preserve an example of a traditional dyeing business from Hokkaido's pioneering era. It served not only as a shop but also as the owner's residence.

A highlight of our visit was watching a couple demonstrate the traditional dyeing technique. Their skillful hands transformed a small piece of plain paper into a coloured paper using age-old methods. As a lovely souvenir, each visitor was presented with a small piece of that paper dyed during the demonstration - a simple but memorable keepsake from our visit.

A Walk Through Nijo Market and a Feast of Fresh King Crab

After our visit to Tanukikoji Shopping Street, we made our way to Nijo Market (Nijō Ichiba), a bustling seafood market with a history spanning more than 120 years. Established during the Meiji era by fishermen selling their daily catch, the market has grown into one of Sapporo's best-known destinations for fresh Hokkaido seafood. Like many visitors to Sapporo, we wanted to experience for ourselves what makes this market so popular. Rows of stalls displayed an impressive variety of seafood, from scallops, sea urchins and salmon roe to some of the finest crabs in Japan.

Hokkaido's cold, nutrient-rich waters produce crabs renowned for their sweet, firm and flavourful meat. The three most popular varieties are King Crab (Taraba-gani), Snow Crab (Zuwai-gani) and Hairy Crab (Kegani). King Crab is the largest, prized for its thick, meaty legs and succulent flesh. Snow Crab has long, slender legs and a delicate sweetness, making it a favourite for hot pots and sashimi. Hairy Crab, although much smaller, is regarded by many Japanese as the tastiest because of its rich, creamy crab roe (kani miso) and intensely sweet meat.

After wandering through the market, we turned into a quieter row of shops away from the main thoroughfare. At one of the less conspicuous seafood stores, the friendly owner, who spoke a little English, pointed to a Red King Crab priced at ¥7,000 (RM175.00). The price included steaming the crab and serving it at the adjoining restaurant. It sounded like an irresistible deal, and with such a rare opportunity to enjoy freshly cooked Hokkaido King Crab in Japan, we accepted the offer without hesitation.

A short while later, the beautifully steamed crab was brought to our table. The thick, succulent meat was incredibly fresh, naturally sweet and remarkably tender. Every bite reminded us why Hokkaido is famous for its seafood. What began as a casual stroll through Nijo Market turned into one of the most memorable culinary experiences of our trip to Japan.

Plenty of fresh seafood on display for sale at Nijo Market.

A Long-Awaited Journey Back to Japan - First Impressions of Sapporo

I first had a brief taste of Japan back in May 2017 when we joined a cruise that made short stops at Okinawa and Ishigaki Islands (Read here). Those visits were little more than a glimpse, leaving me hoping that one day I would return to explore the country more fully.

Nine years later, that opportunity finally came. This time, it was a family holiday with Serene and her family.

Now that my two grandchildren in Western Australia are in high school, travelling together to a foreign country seemed the perfect way to reconnect with them while exploring new places and creating lasting family memories. Serene chose Hokkaido as our destination, with Sapporo and Furano forming the heart of our itinerary. From 8 to 15 July, we spent a wonderful week exploring the region, soaking in its natural beauty, and sampling a wide variety of local delicacies, many of which were completely new to us.

Odori Park & TV Tower

Our first stop in Sapporo was Odori Park, located beside the iconic Sapporo TV Tower. Often described as the green heart of the city, Odori Park stretches through the very centre of Sapporo. Although it is known today as a beautiful urban park, it was originally created as a wide firebreak to separate the government district from the residential and commercial areas. Over the years, it has transformed into one of Japan's most attractive and vibrant city parks.

Now that my two Aussie grandchildren are in high school, exploring a foreign country could be a better way to re-connect with them and to see and  experience new things together. Serene decided to visit Hokkaido - specifically to explore Sapporo and Furano.

Our very first stop in Sapporo is the Odori Park next to the TV Tower. Reckoned as the green heart of Sapporo, it is at the centre of Sapporo. Although called a park, it was originally created as a wide firebreak separating the government district from the residential and commercial areas. Over time, it evolved into one of Japan's most attractive urban parks.

Standing with my grandson, Nathan, near the iconic Sapporo TV Tower, with the famous "SAPPORO" flower display in the foreground - a favourite photo spot for both locals and visitors alike. Nathan has grown even taller since we last met in Perth in April last year. Watching him grow up while creating new memories together has made this trip all the more special.(Read here).

As it was lunch time when we dropped by the park, we saw office workers eating lunch on the lawns, families relaxing, children playing around the fountains, and visitors enjoying the flowers at the gardens.

Auroro Town

After leaving Odori Park and making our way towards Tanukikoji Shopping Street, we decided to explore the famous Aurora Town, the vast underground shopping complex beneath the park.

After locating one of the entrance staircases, we descended into this bustling underground world. Opened in 1971, Aurora Town provides a comfortable, weatherproof environment where residents and visitors can shop, dine and stroll throughout the year, particularly during Hokkaido's long, snowy winters. The mall houses a wide variety of shops, including fashion boutiques, cosmetics stores, bookstores, pharmacies, souvenir shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants serving local favourites such as ramen, soba and Japanese curry. Aurora Town is seamlessly connected to Pole Town, Odori Station, Susukino, Sapporo Station and the underground pedestrian walkway, forming an interconnected network of nearly 2km. It is an impressive example of urban planning, enabling people to move around much of central Sapporo in comfort without having to brave the cold or snow in winter.

Before leaving Aurora Town, we stopped at a dessert café to indulge in some of its signature sweet treats.

Tanukikoji Shopping Street
From Odori Park, we made our way to another of Sapporo's iconic attractions - the Tanukikoji Shopping Street. This fully covered shopping arcade has been part of the city's history for more than 150 years, dating back to the early years of Sapporo's development as the capital of Hokkaido.

More than just a shopping destination, Tanukikoji offers visitors a glimpse into the heart and soul of Sapporo. We spent quite some time strolling through the lively arcade, which stretches for about 900 metres across seven blocks (1-chome to 7-chome). Along the way, we passed around 200 shops, cafés, restaurants and speciality stores, making it a delightful place to browse, shop and sample local delicacies.

In fact, we returned to Tanukikoji more than once during our stay in Sapporo.

As we strolled along the bustling Tanukikoji Shopping Street, we were amazed by the incredible variety of local delicacies on display. From freshly grilled seafood and sweet treats to colourful desserts and savoury snacks, every few steps revealed another tempting speciality. We stopping at one of the food stalls to sample a unique local favourite - the Fisherman's Rice Ball. Unlike an ordinary rice ball, it is grilled to order, giving it a crispy crust while keeping the centre soft and fluffy. It is topped with salmon bonito flakes. The rice ball is served with a cup of hot soup, which diners pour themselves from a large container on a table. That was a simple Hokkaido culinary experience.