The Saahs Family and Their Commitment to Organic and Biodynamic Winemaking at Weingut Nikolaihof, Spitz, Austria

During our visit to Austria's renowned Wachau Valley, we were given the rare privilege of touring the Saahs family's winery, Weingut Nikolaihof, one of the country's oldest and most historically significant wine estates. Since acquiring the property in 1894, the Saahs family has served as its dedicated custodian, preserving a winemaking heritage that stretches back centuries.

Nestled in the heart of the Wachau region, Nikolaihof has earned international recognition not only for producing exceptional wines but also for its pioneering commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Long before sustainable farming became a global movement, the Saahs family embraced a philosophy rooted in harmony with nature, cultivating their vineyards without synthetic fertilizers or chemical pesticides. Over four generations, they have carefully balanced tradition and innovation, safeguarding the estate's rich legacy while remaining steadfast in their commitment to sustainability, patience, and respect for the natural environment.

Today, Nikolaihof stands as a testament to the family's enduring vision, where centuries-old winemaking traditions, meticulous craftsmanship, and biodynamic principles come together to create wines of remarkable character, authenticity, and longevity.

At the winery, we were welcomed by the matriarch, Christine Saahs. She is the prominent figure in the world of biodynamic winemaking and the author of wachau cookbook. She and her husband, Nicholas Saahs, were pioneers who began practising biodynamic viticulture at the estate in 1971, making Nikolaihof the first certified biodynamic winery in Austria.

One of the most remarkable aspects of the Saahs family's approach is their long-standing commitment to farming without synthetic agricultural chemicals. The winery is certified under Demeter standards, one of the world's oldest and most rigorous biodynamic certification systems. Since converting to biodynamic viticulture in 1971, Nikolaihof has operated without the use of synthetic chemical fertilizers, herbicides, or pesticides. Instead, the family relies on natural composts, manure, herbal preparations, and biodynamic treatments designed to enhance soil health and vineyard biodiversity.

The claim that Nikolaihof is truly organic is supported by independent certification and regular inspections. Demeter standards strictly prohibit the use of synthetic fertilizers and most artificial agricultural inputs. As a result, the estate's farming practices are subject to ongoing verification rather than relying solely on marketing claims. This has contributed to Nikolaihof's reputation as one of the most credible and authentic biodynamic wine estates in Europe.

The Saahs family's philosophy extends beyond vineyard management into the cellar. Their winemaking approach emphasizes minimal intervention, allowing wines to develop naturally over time. Fermentations are carried out with native yeasts, and wines are aged in large neutral oak casks rather than new barrels that could impart strong oak flavors. Many of Nikolaihof's wines are matured for unusually long periods before release, sometimes for more than a decade. The family views time as an essential ingredient in the creation of great wine.

In the cellar, one can still see the historic wooden beam press. This is used to crush grapes for juice. 

The cellar is located deep beneath ground level, where natural darkness and cool temperatures provide ideal conditions for the slow maturation of wine. Accessing the cellar requires descending a steep, narrow staircase, which adds a sense of anticipation and adventure to the visit. As one moves further underground, the light gradually fades, revealing a quiet, almost mystical environment where rows of aging barrels rest undisturbed.

The dimly lit passageways, thick stone walls, and naturally cool air create an atmosphere that feels untouched by time. The cellar's darkness is not merely a feature of its design but an essential element in preserving the wines as they mature slowly over many years. Standing in this historic underground space offered a glimpse into the traditional winemaking practices that have been maintained by generations of the Saahs family, reinforcing the winery's commitment to patience, craftsmanship, and respect for nature.

This wine making philosophy is especially evident in the estate's celebrated Vinothek bottlings. Wines such as the Vinothek Riesling and Vinothek Grüner Veltliner have earned international acclaim for their complexity, longevity, and distinctive character. Critics have frequently awarded these wines scores in the mid-to-high 90-point range, placing them among Austria's most highly regarded white wines. Rather than emphasizing youthful fruitiness, these wines develop profound layers of dried fruit, honey, spice, tea, and mineral notes through extended aging.

The success of Nikolaihof demonstrates that high-quality wine can be produced while maintaining a deep commitment to environmental stewardship. Although some aspects of biodynamic agriculture remain controversial within the scientific community, there is no serious dispute that the estate avoids synthetic chemical fertilizers and follows strict organic and biodynamic practices. The broader question of whether biodynamics produces superior wines remains open to debate, but the quality and reputation of Nikolaihof's wines have made the estate a benchmark for biodynamic winemaking worldwide.

Today, the Saahs family continues to uphold the principles established decades ago: respect for the land, minimal intervention, and extraordinary patience. Their work has preserved not only one of Austria's oldest wine estates but also a unique vision of viticulture in which nature, tradition, and time are given the opportunity to shape wines of exceptional character and longevity.

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After touring the winery's historic cellar, lunch was served in two intimate rooms featuring textured stone walls and warm, ambient lighting. The traditional cellar setting created a cozy and inviting atmosphere, allowing guests to experience the rich heritage of the estate firsthand. Surrounded by centuries-old architecture and the quiet charm of the underground cellars, the setting perfectly reflected the winery's philosophy of tradition, patience, and respect for time.

During lunch, we had the opportunity to taste a selection of wines produced by the Saahs family, the custodians of Weingut Nikolaihof for more than a century. The tasting provided valuable insight into the family's commitment to biodynamic viticulture and minimal-intervention winemaking. Each wine displayed remarkable depth, balance, and complexity, reflecting both the unique terroir of the Wachau region and the Saahs family's dedication to preserving the authentic character of their vineyards. The experience offered not only a memorable meal but also a deeper appreciation of one of Austria's most historic and respected wineries.

Before departing, we paused for a commemorative photograph beneath the iconic "Weinstube Nikolaihof" sign. Standing beneath this historic emblem of the estate, we captured a memorable moment that reflected both the warmth of the winery's hospitality and its centuries-old winemaking legacy.

Cruising Through the Wachau Valley toward Spitz, Austria

We said goodbye to Linz at 11:00 p.m. on 11 May 2026 as we departed for Spitz. We were scheduled to arrive in Spitz at 10:00 a.m. the following morning, cruising a distance of 116 km.

Before arriving in Spitz, guests were invited up on deck to experience two highlights of the journey: first, passing through a river lock, and then viewing the impressive Aggstein Castle rising above the Danube.

We took our time over breakfast, enjoying the meal while also watching the operation of the lock system unfold.

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After breakfast, we made our way up to the deck to listen to the cruise guide’s commentary on Aggstein Castle, while also taking in the breathtaking views on both sides of the river.

Photos downloaded from internet websites.

Aggstein Castle is one of Austria's most famous medieval castle ruins, situated on a rocky ridge high above the Danube River in the Wachau Valley of Lower Austria. Its dramatic location and long history have made it an important symbol of the region and a popular destination for visitors interested in medieval architecture and history.

The castle was founded in the early twelfth century, most likely by Manegold III of Aggsbach, and soon became associated with the powerful Kuenring family. Because it overlooked the Danube, one of Europe's most important trade and transportation routes, Aggstein served as a strategic military stronghold and administrative center. Its elevated position allowed its owners to monitor river traffic and defend the surrounding territory.

Throughout the Middle Ages, Aggstein Castle played a significant role in regional politics and warfare. It was involved in various conflicts and endured several sieges as rival nobles and rulers competed for power. By the late fourteenth century, however, the castle had fallen into decline and was partially ruined.

A new chapter in the castle's history began in 1429 when Duke Albert V granted the ruined fortress to the nobleman Jörg Scheck von Wald. He rebuilt and expanded the castle, restoring its importance along the Danube. During this period, Aggstein became associated with the legends of the "robber barons," nobles who were accused of attacking merchant ships and extorting travelers. One of the castle's most famous features is the so-called "Rose Garden," a narrow platform near a cliff edge that, according to legend, was used to imprison captives. Although many of these stories have been embellished over time, they remain an important part of the castle's folklore.

During the sixteenth century, the castle was modified to adapt to the growing use of gunpowder and artillery. Despite these improvements, its military importance gradually declined. As political conditions changed and newer fortifications became more effective, Aggstein was eventually abandoned. By the seventeenth century, it had largely fallen into ruin.

In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, growing interest in historic monuments led to efforts to preserve the remains of the castle. Restoration and conservation work helped stabilize the structures while maintaining their medieval character. Today, Aggstein Castle stands as one of Austria's best-preserved castle ruins and is a major tourist attraction in the Wachau Valley. Visitors can explore its ancient walls, towers, and courtyards while enjoying spectacular views of the Danube and the surrounding landscape.

From its origins as a twelfth-century fortress guarding a vital trade route to its present role as a cultural and historical landmark, Aggstein Castle reflects more than eight centuries of Austrian history. Its combination of strategic importance, legendary tales, and striking scenery continues to captivate visitors from around the world.

During the briefing on the deck, the cruise guide mentioned that Richard the Lionheart of England was imprisoned for a year at Aggstein between 1191 and 1193. However, an internet search shows this is not accurate.

Richard the Lionheart was indeed captured in 1192, but he was held at Dürnstein Castle, also located in the Wachau Valley. He was later transferred to several castles within the Holy Roman Empire before being released after a large ransom was paid.

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A short distance after passing Aggstein, we came upon another ruined castle: Burgruine Hinterhaus. It sits above Spitz in Austria’s Wachau Valley, a UNESCO-listed stretch of the Danube known for its vineyards and dramatic scenery. Built on a steep rocky ridge, the castle once served as a strategic lookout over river traffic along this important medieval trade route. Its origins likely date to the 12th century, with the first written record in 1243, and it was linked to local noble families under the influence of the powerful Kuenring dynasty.

The fortress was designed for defense and observation rather than residence, stretching along the ridge in a long, narrow layout that still shows in its remaining walls and terraces. Over time, it lost its strategic role and fell into ruin as political and military needs changed. Today, it is freely accessible via a short hike from Spitz and is visited mainly for its sweeping views over the Danube and surrounding vineyards, where history and landscape merge into one.

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Wachau Valley is indeed a picturesque place. The Valley is a scenic stretch of the Danube River best known today for its wine, historic towns, and cultural landscape. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it combines natural beauty with centuries of human history.

The region is especially famous for its vineyards, producing high-quality Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines, as well as its apricots, which are used in traditional local foods and drinks. Along the river, towns like Dürnstein, Krems, and Melk attract visitors with their medieval charm and baroque architecture.

Tourism is central to the Wachau today, with people visiting for river cruises, cycling routes, and hikes through vineyards and historic sites such as Aggstein Castle. Overall, the valley is known as a unique blend of landscape, wine culture, and historical heritage along the Danube.

Unlike an ocean cruise, a river cruise allows us to fully appreciate such beautiful landscapes. It is both soothing and invigorating!

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On deck, we had another close-up view of the cruise carefully maneuvering through the lock at Spitz, watching as the vessel was expertly guided through the passage.

The Pilgrimage Church of the Seven Sorrows of Mary, Linz, Austria

Earlier in the cruise, we noticed a church with two green spires perched on a hill overlooking Linz. Right after lunch at Leberkas-Pepi, we decided to take the tram from the city centre up to the summit to visit it. The tram route uphill is known as the steepest tramway in Europe.

Once at the top, we had a commanding panoramic view of Linz city below.

I was surprised to see a statue of Saint John of Nepomuk on the path to the Pöstlingberg pilgrimage church or the Pilgrimage Church of the Seven Sorrows of Mary. I first learned about this saint during a visit to Prague in September 2018. He was a 14th-century Bohemian priest from Prague who was martyred and later became one of the most venerated saints in the Habsburg world (Read here).

A closer look shows that his presence is not tied to a specific local event in Linz, but rather to long-established religious and cultural traditions in Central Europe. John of Nepomuk is especially known as the patron saint of protection for travelers and those facing danger, which is why his statues are commonly placed on bridges, roads, and pilgrimage routes. Over time, particularly in the Baroque period, he came to be seen as a symbolic guardian of journeys.

On Pöstlingberg, his statue fits naturally into the design of the pilgrimage ascent, where the walk up the hill represents a spiritual journey. His presence serves both a protective function for pilgrims and reflects the broader Catholic tradition of placing saints along sacred routes to encourage reflection and devotion.

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A mascot placed outside a bakery and a garden gnome added light-hearted moments as we wandered through the neighbourhood, giving the area a playful and whimsical character.

The shady forest surrounding the church made for a pleasant and refreshing walk, with the cool tree cover offering a calm contrast to the open surroundings.

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Once we returned to the city centre, we stopped at Kaffee Glockenspiel for a refreshing beer and a slice of cake. Located on Hauptplatz, Linz’s historic main square, this traditional Austrian coffee house provided the perfect setting to relax after our walk. With its views of the bustling square, it was an ideal place to unwind. As we savoured our drinks and desserts, we soaked in the charm of the city and reflected on the day’s experiences.

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Back on the cruise, we enjoyed another hearty dinner. For the main course, we had pan-seared fish and a braised lamb shank.

Exploring Austria’s Largest Cathedral in Linz: The Mariendom

After touring Mozarthaus (Read here), we were taken to the Mariendom, also known as the New Cathedral of Linz or the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. This is the most important church building in Linz, Austria. It is also the largest church in the country by interior space and one of the city’s most striking landmarks along the Danube.

The cathedral was built in the neo-Gothic style, inspired by the great medieval cathedrals of Europe. Construction began in 1862 and was completed in 1924. Despite its relatively modern age compared to many European cathedrals, its design gives the impression of a much older structure, with tall pointed arches, detailed stonework, and large stained-glass windows. The project was largely funded by donations from the people of Linz, reflecting its importance to the local community.

Inside, the Mariendom is vast and impressive, capable of holding around 20,000 people. Its interior is filled with light from its stained-glass windows, including the famous “Linz Window,” which depicts scenes from the city’s history. The scale of the building creates a sense of openness and height, making it feel more like a grand hall than a traditional church.

One of the cathedral’s most distinctive features is its tower, which offers panoramic views over Linz and the Danube River. From this height, visitors can see the contrast between the historic old town, the industrial areas, and the modern parts of the city.

Today, the Mariendom remains the seat of the Bishop of Linz and continues to be used for religious services, cultural events, and concerts. It stands as both a spiritual center and a symbol of Linz’s historical growth and identity.

Overall, the Mariendom is not only an architectural masterpiece but also a reflection of Linz itself - a city that blends tradition, industry, and modern development into a single landscape.

After touring such a magnificent cathedral, I found myself reflecting on Germany itself - the birthplace of the Protestant Reformation. In 1517, Martin Luther challenged the authority and practices of the Catholic Church, setting in motion a movement that would transform Christianity and reshape Europe. His teachings spread rapidly, leading many German regions to embrace Protestantism while others remained Catholic. The Reformation encouraged Bible reading, literacy, and personal faith, but it also contributed to religious conflicts, most notably the Thirty Years' War.

From the 17th through the 19th centuries, Christianity remained at the heart of German society. Churches played a central role in education, culture, politics, and social welfare, while German theologians, scholars, and missionaries exerted a profound influence on Christianity around the world.

This history feels especially personal to me. The church I attend today, Basel Christian Church of Malaysia, traces its roots to the work of missionaries from Basel, a city in Switzerland with deep German-speaking and Reformation-era connections. These missionaries traveled to China to share the Gospel with my ancestors. When later generations migrated to this part of the world, they carried that spiritual heritage with them and named their church in remembrance of the missionaries who had first brought them the Christian faith.

Yet the forces of modernity gradually altered Germany's religious landscape. Industrialization, scientific progress, and secular philosophies weakened the traditional authority of the Church. The Nazi era further challenged the moral standing of Christian institutions, although courageous figures such as Dietrich Bonhoeffer stood in resistance.

After World War II, the vast majority of Germans still identified as Christian. Over time, however, secularization accelerated - particularly in East Germany - and church membership and attendance steadily declined. Today, fewer than half of Germans belong to the major Catholic or Protestant churches.

There is a striking irony in this history. While Christianity has waned in Germany and much of Europe, it continues to grow rapidly in Africa, Latin America, and parts of Asia. The center of global Christianity has gradually shifted away from Europe, even as Germany's churches and cathedrals remain enduring monuments to a faith that once stood at the very heart of its national life.

Standing within such a grand cathedral, I was reminded that while faith may ebb and flow across nations and generations, its influence often travels in unexpected ways. The very faith that once flourished in Europe eventually reached my ancestors in China and, through them, became part of my own story today.

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We ended our tour with lunch at Leberkas-Pepi, a popular Austrian snack bar renowned for its Leberkäse, a traditional Austrian-Bavarian meatloaf. Accompanied by a cup of coffee, we ordered a Leberkässemmel - one of Austria’s most beloved street foods.

A Leberkässemmel consists of a thick slice of freshly baked Leberkäse, a savory loaf made from finely ground meat and spices, served in a crusty bread roll known as a Semmel. Simple yet satisfying, it is a classic Austrian snack enjoyed by locals throughout the day.