Saturday, June 06, 2026

Budapest, Our Final Cruise Destination

On Day 7 of our cruise, 15 May 2026, we arrived at our final destination - Budapest, a city we had previously visited in September 2018. Returning after nearly eight years brought back many fond memories, while also giving us the opportunity to experience the city from a fresh perspective.

As our ship approached the city, we were greeted by some of Budapest's most iconic landmarks. Standing along the banks of the Danube was the magnificent Parliament House, one of the city's most recognizable architectural masterpieces. In the distance, we could also see the 40-m-high Liberty Statue perched atop Gellért Hill, overlooking the city below. Originally erected after World War II, the monument was rededicated in 1989 to honour all those who sacrificed their lives for Hungary's independence and freedom.

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Our tour of Budapest began at Gerbeaud House in Vörösmarty Square. Unlike previous walking tours, this one started with a special treat - a special breakfast stop at the renowned Gerbeaud Café, one of the city's most historic and elegant establishments. Located in the heart of Budapest, the café has welcomed guests since the 19th century and is celebrated for its refined atmosphere, exquisite pastries, and rich coffee culture. Enjoying breakfast in such a grand setting was a delightful way to begin our exploration of the Hungarian capital.
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Budapest is, in fact, the result of the unification of three historic towns in 1873 - Buda, Pest, and Óbuda (Old Buda). Separated by the majestic Danube River, Buda occupies the hilly western bank, while Pest spreads across the flat eastern plain. Together, they form Hungary's vibrant capital and largest city.

The history of these settlements stretches back more than two thousand years. The area was first inhabited by Celtic tribes before becoming part of the Roman Empire, which established the military and commercial settlement of Aquincum in what is now Óbuda. Following the arrival of the Magyar tribes in the late 9th century, Buda gradually emerged as an important royal and administrative centre. During the Middle Ages, Buda became the seat of Hungarian kings and flourished as a political and cultural hub.

The fortunes of the region changed dramatically in 1541 when the Ottoman Empire captured Buda, beginning nearly 150 years of Turkish rule. During this period, many churches were converted into mosques, and Turkish baths were constructed, some of which still operate today. The Habsburgs recaptured the city in 1686, and over the following centuries both Buda and Pest underwent extensive rebuilding and modernization.

By the 19th century, Pest had developed into the country's commercial and financial centre, while Buda retained its role as the historic and administrative heart of the nation. The opening of the iconic Chain Bridge in 1849 physically linked the two sides of the river, symbolizing the growing unity between the cities. This culminated in 1873 when Buda, Pest, and Óbuda were officially merged to create Budapest.

The newly unified city grew rapidly and became one of the most important urban centres in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Grand boulevards, elegant public buildings, and impressive landmarks such as the Parliament Building were constructed during this period of prosperity. By the early 20th century, Budapest had earned a reputation as one of Europe's most beautiful and cosmopolitan cities.

Today, Budapest is home to nearly 1.7 million residents and serves as Hungary's political, economic, cultural, and educational centre. Buda is known for its historic castle district, winding streets, thermal baths, and panoramic views from the surrounding hills. Pest, on the other hand, is the bustling commercial heart of the city, featuring wide avenues, shopping districts, government buildings, museums, restaurants, and vibrant nightlife.

Despite the many challenges it has faced throughout its history - including wars, occupations, and political upheavals - Budapest has emerged as one of Central Europe's most dynamic and attractive capitals. 

After admiring the Hungarian Parliament Building from the Danube River on several occasions, we finally arrived at Kossuth Square, where this magnificent landmark stands in all its grandeur. Beside the Parliament is the equestrian statue of Count Gyula Andrássy, one of Hungary's most esteemed statesmen. As the country's first Prime Minister following the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867, Andrássy played a pivotal role in shaping modern Hungary and restoring a measure of political autonomy within the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
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In front of St. Stephen's Basilica. This is the largest Roman Catholic church in the city and is dedicated to Hungary's first king, St. Stephen I.
We passed by the Soviet Heroic Memorial located at the Liberty Square. This was erected in 1945 to honor the Red Army soldiers who died during the Battle of Budapest. The monument remains highly controversial among many Hungarians: while it commemorates the country's liberation from Nazi Germany, it also serves as a reminder of the decades of Soviet occupation and communist rule that followed.
Ironically, Liberty Square is best known today for its dancing fountains, the laughter of families, and the fascination of visitors gathering to watch its lively public displays. Yet beneath this atmosphere of leisure and enjoyment lies one of Hungary’s most emotionally charged spaces of public memory. The square serves as a living Holocaust counter-memorial, where personal artifacts, photographs, candles, and messages of remembrance stand in direct confrontation with a highly controversial state-sponsored monument nearby. The juxtaposition is striking: a place filled with everyday joy and recreation is simultaneously a site of mourning, historical contestation, and ongoing reflection on Hungary’s role during the Holocaust.
From our vantage point on the Pest side of the Danube River, we were treated to an exquisite panorama of Buda rising gracefully across the river. The historic hills, elegant architecture, and iconic landmarks created a picture-perfect scene, especially as they reflected upon the shimmering waters of the Danube. Standing in Pest, we could fully appreciate the beauty and grandeur of Budapest’s twin cities, whose contrasting landscapes are united by the river that flows between them.
Our tour concluded near the iconic Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial. While we could see many people gathered around this poignant landmark, our limited schedule meant we were unable to visit it up close. It's certainly a place worth returning to for a more meaningful experience.

Thursday, June 04, 2026

Exploring Bratislava, Slovakia by Sightseeing Train

After completing our walking tour of Bratislava's Old Town, we made our way to Hviezdoslav Square, where the city's distinctive open-sided sightseeing trains offer visitors a convenient introduction to Bratislava's history, culture, and major landmarks.
At first, we were hesitant about joining the tour. It seemed rather pricey and touristy, and we wondered whether it would be worth the time and expense. Sensing our uncertainty, one of the operators approached us and offered a discounted fare. The gesture was enough to persuade us, and we decided to give it a try. Besides the four of us, only two other passengers - a mother and her young child - were on board, making for a relaxed and comfortable journey.

Departing from Hviezdoslav Square, the train wound its way through some of the most significant parts of the Slovak capital. As we sat back and enjoyed the ride, we passed several notable attractions, including the historic Slovak National Theatre, the Parliament Building and the striking inverted-pyramid headquarters of Slovak Radio, one of the city's most unusual architectural landmarks. Along the route, we also caught glimpses of St. Martin's Cathedral, the Danube waterfront, and the famous UFO Observation Deck perched atop the UFO Bridge.
The Parliament Building.
UFO Observation Deck perched atop the UFO Bridge or SNP Bridge.
St. Martin Cathedral.

The highlight of the tour was undoubtedly the stop at Bratislava Castle, one of Slovakia's most iconic landmarks. Perched high above the Danube River, the castle commands spectacular views of Bratislava's Old Town, the modern city beyond, and even neighboring Austria in the distance. 

Bratislava Castle is a historic fortress overlooking the Danube River in Slovakia's capital. Its hilltop location has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with evidence of Stone Age settlements, a Celtic fortified town, and Roman frontier activity.

In the 9th century, the site became an important stronghold of the Great Moravian Empire. After the region joined the Kingdom of Hungary, a stone castle was built and gradually expanded. During the 15th century, King Sigismund of Luxembourg transformed it into a major Gothic fortress with strong defensive features.

The castle was rebuilt in Renaissance style during the 16th century and later gained Baroque elements. Its golden age came in the 18th century under Maria Theresa, when it served as a luxurious royal residence and political center.

After losing importance, the castle was converted into military barracks. In 1811, a devastating fire destroyed much of the complex, leaving it in ruins for nearly 150 years. Restoration began in 1953 and continued until 1968, returning the castle to its historic appearance.

Today, Bratislava Castle is a national symbol of Slovakia, housing museum exhibitions, hosting official events, and attracting visitors with its rich history and panoramic views of the city and surrounding region.

Unfortunately, our stop lasted only about twenty minutes, leaving little time to properly explore the castle grounds or visit its exhibitions. Instead, we wandered around the terraces, admired the panoramic scenery, and took as many photographs as possible before rejoining the train.
Equestrian statute of Svatopluk I known as Svatopluk the Great, a 9th century rule of Moravia.
Although the tour was relatively short, it provided an enjoyable overview of Bratislava's rich history, distinctive architecture, and scenic viewpoints. In less than two hours, we gained a broader perspective of the city than we could have achieved on foot alone, making the ride a worthwhile addition to our day in the Slovak capital.
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That evening, we enjoyed another fantastic dinner with company of good friends. The next morning, we will be at our final destination - Budapest of Hungary.

Walking Through Bratislava’s Old Town: History, Memory, and Landmarks

On Day 6 of our journey, 14 May 2026, we arrived in Bratislava, the capital and largest city of Slovakia. After breakfast, we set out on our customary guided walking tour to explore the city's historic center and landmarks.

As we disembarked and walked along the embankment near the docking area, we were greeted by the striking building known locally as Fajnorka, home to the Secondary School of Mechanical Engineering. The building's distinctive architecture and prominent riverside location make it one of the recognizable landmarks along the Danube waterfront.

Adjacent to Fajnorka, on the right-hand side of the photograph, stands the Faculty of Arts of Comenius University, the oldest and largest university in Slovakia. Its elegant façade reflects the city's rich academic tradition and serves as a reminder of Bratislava's role as an important center of education and culture. Together, these buildings provide an impressive introduction to the city, blending its educational heritage with the architectural character of the Danube riverfront.
Fajnorka.

We crossed the Old Bridge, which offered panoramic views of the surrounding cityscape and the Danube River. From this vantage point, we could appreciate Bratislava's unique blend of historic architecture and modern development. In the distance, we caught sight of another of the city's most iconic landmarks - the UFO Bridge.

The bridge is instantly recognizable by its distinctive "flying saucer" structure perched atop a single pylon. Rising 85 meters above the river, the saucer-shaped observation deck dominates the skyline and has become a symbol of modern Bratislava. Housed within this futuristic structure is the renowned UFO watch.taste.groove. restaurant, which offers visitors spectacular panoramic views of the city, the Danube, and even neighboring Austria and Hungary on clear days.

Completed in 1972, the UFO Bridge is considered one of the most remarkable examples of modern engineering in Slovakia. Its striking design creates a dramatic contrast with the medieval charm of Bratislava's Old Town, reflecting the city's seamless blend of history and innovation.
UFO Bridge at far left.
In the distance, perched atop a hill, we could make out Bratislava Castle, a prominent landmark and historic fortress that overlooks the Danube River and dominates the skyline of Slovakia's capital.
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The tour began at a small building marked by a squatting boxer figure. Our guide explained that it commemorates David Unreich (1907–1957), also known as Ben Shalom, a celebrated Jewish heavyweight wrestler from Bratislava. A national champion and international competitor, he later helped defend the city's Jewish community against rising fascism before escaping Europe in 1939 and continuing his career in the United States. 
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Entrance to the Main Square.

From there we entered Hlavné námestie (Main Square), the historic heart of Bratislava's Old Town. Surrounded by colorful merchant houses and noble residences, the square reflects centuries of rebuilding after fires, wars, and political upheavals. At its center stands the Maximilian Fountain, Bratislava's oldest fountain, built in 1572 by King Maximilian II and still accompanied by local legends about the knight atop the monument.
We then visited the Old Town Hall, one of Slovakia's oldest civic buildings, dominated by the Town Hall Tower. Dating from the late 13th and 14th centuries, the tower originally served both administrative and defensive purposes. Over time it was rebuilt following earthquakes and fires, resulting in its present Baroque appearance. Highlights include the clock tower, historic stone carvings, coats of arms, and the cannonball embedded in the wall, a reminder of Napoleon's 1809 bombardment of Bratislava. Today the complex houses the Bratislava City Museum.
The above two photographs presents the courtyard side of the complex, where later additions are more visible. The building with the distinctive patterned green roof and Neo-Gothic details was added during major renovations in the early 12th century. Its decorative stonework and picturesque roofline demonstrate the period's enthusiasm for reviving medieval architectural forms. Adjacent to the complex stands the elegant Primate's Palace, a separate but closely associated landmark that historically served ecclesiastical and ceremonial functions.

Together, these buildings illustrate how the Old Town Hall evolved from a collection of private houses into the civic heart of medieval Bratislava. Although the structures originated in different periods and styles, they are physically and historically connected as parts of the same municipal complex. Today, the Old Town Hall houses the Bratislava City Museum, serving as a center for exhibitions, education, cultural events, and public access to the city's rich historical heritage.
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Strolling through the surrounding pedestrian streets, we encountered some of Bratislava's most famous statues: Čumil, the bronze worker peering from a manhole; Schöne Náci, honoring the city's beloved eccentric Ignác Lamár; and Napoleon's Soldier, leaning casually on a bench for photographs.
Čumil.
Schöne Náci.
Napoleon's Soldier.

The tour concluded at the Historic Building of the Slovak National Theatre on Hviezdoslav Square. Built in 1885–1886 in Neo-Renaissance style by Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer, it became the home of the Slovak National Theatre in 1920. With its grand colonnaded façade, rooftop sculptures, central dome, and the nearby Ganymede Fountain, it remains one of Bratislava's most important cultural landmarks.