Exploring Dachau Old Town and Palace Hill

We ended our visit to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site at around 4.15pm on 7 May 2026. With some time left before nightfall, we decided to stop at the old town of Dachau and make our way up the hill to Dachau Palace.

Before the uphill walk, we paused along the cobbled streets of Dachau’s old town. The settlement itself is very old, first documented in the 8th century - making it more than 1,200 years old. It developed as a small medieval market town in Bavaria, shaped by its position along regional trade and agricultural routes, and later by its connection to the ducal residence above.

The “old town” (Altstadt) still preserves its historic character today, with narrow lanes, traditional Bavarian houses, and small central squares that reflect its medieval layout. Though now part of the wider Munich metropolitan region, it retains a distinct identity separate from the city.

Once we reached the top, we had a panoramic view of Amper River valley below.

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Dachau Palace (Schloss Dachau) rises above the town and began as a medieval fortification overlooking the Amper River valley. By the late Middle Ages, it had become an important seat for Bavarian nobility due to its strategic position.

In the 16th century, under the Wittelsbach dukes Wilhelm IV and Albrecht V, it was transformed into a Renaissance-style summer residence, expanded into a four-wing complex. It remained largely unchanged until 1715, when Elector Max Emanuel commissioned the refurbishment of the banqueting hall wing, adding a modernised façade and staircase. In the early 19th century, King Max I Joseph ordered the demolition of three of the four wings, leaving only the Baroque banqueting hall tract that survives today.

The palace gardens, known as the terrace gardens, were designed in the Baroque style as a series of stepped levels descending the hill. Once highly formal, with geometric layouts and ornamental planting, they were designed to frame long views across the valley toward the Alps. While later softened into a more park-like landscape, the terraced structure and dramatic sightlines remain the defining features of the site.

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We chose to take a different route from Dachau Palace down to the old town. As we wandered through the streets, we came across a shop that operated as a restaurant and decided to stop for dinner. After enjoying a hearty Bavarian meal, we made our way back to the hotel.

Never Again: A Personal Reflection on Dachau and the Legacy of Atrocity

Before my visit to the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site in Munich on 7 May 2026, the concentration camp I was familiar with was Auschwitz - widely known as the largest and deadliest complex of concentration and extermination camps, located in then German-occupied Poland. 

We spent about three and a half hours that afternoon learning about the horrors associated with the site in Dachau.

The Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site in Germany stands as one of the most significant reminders of the atrocities committed under Nazi rule. Located near the city of Munich, Dachau was established in 1933, shortly after Adolf Hitler came to power. It was the first regular concentration camp created by the Nazi regime and later became a model for many other camps that followed. Today, the memorial site serves not only as a historical landmark but also as a place of remembrance, education, and reflection for visitors from around the world.

Originally, Dachau was intended to hold political prisoners such as communists, journalists, trade unionists, and others who opposed the Nazi government. Over time, however, the camp expanded to imprison many groups whom the Nazis considered undesirable. These included Jewish people, clergy members, homosexuals, Jehovah’s Witnesses, resistance fighters, and prisoners of war. Between 1933 and 1945, more than 200,000 people from across Europe were imprisoned there. Tens of thousands lost their lives due to starvation, disease, forced labor, medical experiments, torture, and execution.

Upon arrival, detainees passed through the entrance gate bearing the phrase “Arbeit macht frei,” meaning “Work sets you free.” This slogan cruelly deceived prisoners while symbolizing the manipulation and brutality of the Nazi system. Beyond the gate lies the large roll-call square, where prisoners were forced to stand for hours in all weather conditions. The reconstructed barracks offer a glimpse into the overcrowded and harsh living conditions endured daily by inmates.

Entrance to the Concentration Camp.

Entrance building seen from inside the compound.

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Roll-Call Square.

Displayed old photographs of roll-call.

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The memorial also includes museums and exhibitions containing photographs, documents, personal belongings, and survivor testimonies. Through these exhibits, visitors gain a deeper understanding of life inside the camp and the broader system of Nazi persecution. These historical records help ensure that the voices and experiences of those who suffered here are not forgotten.

Today, all the detention centres have been demolished leaving just one row for viewing by visitors.

After extensive walking through the site, we reached one of the most significant areas of the memorial: the crematorium complex, known as Barrack X. There, we saw the ovens and gas chamber that bear witness to the inhumane treatment carried out within the camp. Although Dachau was not primarily designed as an extermination camp like Auschwitz, it nonetheless became a place of immense suffering and death. The site serves as a stark reminder of the systematic cruelty used by the Nazi regime to terrorize and dehumanize millions of people.

Today, the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site stands as a powerful warning against hatred, racism, antisemitism, and authoritarianism. Visitors are often deeply affected by the experience, as it confronts them with the realities of human cruelty and the consequences of intolerance.

A statute outside the crematorium.

The inscription: In honour of the dead, as a reminder to the living.

Numerous watchtowers were positioned along the perimeter of the fenced compound. According to testimonies, any individual who entered the grass-covered zone adjacent to the fence risked being shot on sight, irrespective of whether an escape attempt was intended. Accounts also describe detainees who, driven to despair by prolonged torture and the harsh conditions of confinement, intentionally approached the fence, fully aware that doing so would likely result in their death.

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In addition to its historical exhibits, Dachau contains several religious and international memorials dedicated to the victims. Chapels, monuments, and sculptures honor individuals from different nations and faiths who were imprisoned and killed there. These memorials symbolize remembrance, mourning, and the enduring importance of human dignity.

Protestant Church of Reconciliation.

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At the end of the tour, I found a moment of quiet reflection in front of the memorial bearing the words “Never Again.”

By preserving this site and educating visitors, Dachau continues to promote remembrance and encourages societies to uphold human rights and ensure that such tragedies are never repeated.

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While Europe endured such horrors under the Nazi regime, Southeast Asia also experienced comparable suffering under Japanese occupation during the Second World War. One of the most tragic events of this period was the Nanjing Massacre. This led me to recall Zhang Chunru (Iris Chang), the Chinese American writer who authored The Rape of Nanking: The Forgotten Holocaust of World War II, a work that brought global attention to the atrocity and deeply shaped public understanding of it.

Sadly, she died by suicide in 2004 at the age of 36. Those close to her, along with biographers and journalists, have generally attributed her death to a combination of severe depression, intense psychological strain, physical exhaustion, and the emotional burden of her work. Her extensive research into the Nanjing Massacre - through graphic accounts, photographs, and survivor testimonies - appears to have taken a profound emotional toll.

A memorial statue was later erected not only to honor her efforts in giving voice to the victims of Nanjing, but also to commemorate her short life and lasting impact.

Photos downloaded from internet sites.

Unlike Germany, which has largely confronted and acknowledged the atrocities committed during the Nazi era, Japan’s wartime history remains a more contested and sensitive subject, continuing to cause tension with China to this day.

Munich's Old Town around Marienplaz

We decided to explore Munich’s Old Town around Marienplatz on our free-and-easy first day in the city on 6 May 2026. Our goal was to experience firsthand two attractions that capture Munich’s character in very different yet complementary ways: the Rathaus-Glockenspiel at the New Town Hall and the nearby Viktualienmarkt. One represents history and storytelling through a remarkable mechanical spectacle, while the other reflects the city’s everyday life, food culture, and social rhythm.

The Rathaus-Glockenspiel, located high on the façade of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), is far more than a decorative clock. It is a carefully choreographed performance of Bavarian history and identity. Built in the early twentieth century, it transforms the Gothic Revival town hall into a stage where historical events are reenacted daily. When the bells begin to chime, crowds gather in Marienplatz and look upward as life-sized figures rotate and perform two distinct scenes.

The upper tier depicts the royal wedding of Duke Wilhelm V of Bavaria and Renata of Lorraine, complete with a medieval jousting tournament in which knights circle and compete in symbolic combat. Beneath this, the “Schäfflertanz” or Coopers’ Dance unfolds, commemorating a local legend from the time of the plague, when barrel makers danced through the streets to restore hope and lift the spirits of the townspeople. The Glockenspiel serves as both entertainment and a living reminder of Munich’s past, compressing centuries of Bavarian pride, resilience, and pageantry into a few minutes of open-air theatre.

The mechanical clock comes to life three times daily - at 11:00 a.m., 12:00 noon, and 5:00 p.m. Unfortunately, we arrived shortly after 1:00 p.m. and had just missed the noon performance. While we were disappointed not to witness the spectacle in action, simply standing beneath the impressive tower and imagining the scene was still a memorable experience.

From Marienplatz, we took a short walk to Viktualienmarkt, where the atmosphere shifted from ceremonial spectacle to everyday vitality. In contrast to the formal architecture of the town hall, the market feels organic, lively, and constantly in motion. Originally established as the city’s central marketplace, it expanded from Marienplatz to its present location in the nineteenth century as Munich continued to grow.

Today, Viktualienmarkt is a sprawling open-air market that showcases Munich’s culinary identity at its finest. Stalls overflow with seasonal produce, artisanal cheeses, sausages, freshly baked goods, flowers, and aromatic spices. Vendors interact with customers in a rhythm that feels both local and timeless, creating a vibrant atmosphere that appeals to residents and visitors alike. At the heart of the market lies a shaded beer garden, where locals and tourists sit side by side, enjoying Bavarian beer and traditional dishes beneath the chestnut trees.

Unlike the Glockenspiel, which presents history through scheduled performances, Viktualienmarkt embodies history in a continuous and living form. The traditions of trade, food preparation, and communal gathering have been passed down through generations, evolving over time while remaining deeply rooted in Munich’s cultural heritage.

Along the way to Viktualienmarkt, we saw this  statue - the famous Juliet statue, a short distance from the New Town Hall. The statue’s right breast appears noticeably shinier than the rest because of a long-standing tradition in which visitors touch or rub it for good luck in love and relationships. Over the years, millions of tourists have followed this custom, gradually polishing the bronze surface through constant contact. In recent years, however, the practice has sparked debate. Some critics view it as sexist or disrespectful, while others regard it as a harmless and lighthearted tradition connected to the enduring romance of Romeo and Juliet.

In front of the Church of the Holy Spirit, located right beside Viktualienmarkt. It is one of Munich's oldest churches, with origins in the 13th century. The building began as part of a medieval hospital and was later rebuilt after the great city fire of 1327. In the 1700s, it was transformed into the Baroque style we see today.

A short walk away stands St. Peter’s Church, known by locals as “Alter Peter” (Old Peter). Considered the oldest parish church in Munich. It has served the city for centuries and remains one of its most beloved landmarks. The church is distinguished by its tall white clock tower topped with a red spire, which dominates the skyline between Marienplatz and Viktualienmarkt. Visitors often climb the tower’s 306 steps to enjoy panoramic views of Munich and, on clear days, the distant Alps.

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From Viktualienmarkt, we made our way to a nearby traditional food establishment that has been serving customers since 1902. Drawn by its long history and reputation for authentic Bavarian cuisine, we decided to stop there for lunch and sample some local specialties.

For our meal, we chose two iconic Bavarian dishes: a hearty pork knuckle and a sausage roll. The pork knuckle was beautifully roasted, with crispy crackling on the outside and tender, flavourful meat within. The sausage roll, equally satisfying, offered a delicious taste of the region's rich culinary heritage. After a morning of exploring Munich's Old Town, the comforting meal provided a welcome opportunity to rest and recharge while soaking in the atmosphere of this historic establishment.

No meal would be complete without a sweet treat, and so immediately after lunch, we indulged ourselves with some ice cream. Enjoying our ice cream while strolling through the bustling streets of the city centre was the perfect way to round off our first day in Munich. With our appetites satisfied and our curiosity about the city beginning to grow, we decided to call it a day and return to our accommodation, looking forward to discovering more of Munich in the days ahead.

Enjoying ice cream with tulips in the background.