Budapest by Night: A Memorable Finale

The final evening of our cruise was spent admiring the enchanting nightscape of Budapest as the ship glided gracefully along the Danube. After savoring a hearty farewell dinner, we made our way to the upper deck to take in the city's illuminated beauty. 

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I vividly recalled taking a similar daytime cruise about eight years earlier, when the city had already left a lasting impression on me (Read here). This time, as we sailed through the heart of Budapest, magnificent buildings lined both banks of the river - an elegant blend of historic landmarks, classical architecture, and modern structures. Countless bridges spanned the Danube, each adding its own character to the city's skyline. Seeing these familiar sights bathed in golden and colorful lights transformed them into something entirely different. The reflections shimmering on the water created a magical atmosphere and offered a visual experience that was every bit as memorable as the daytime cruise.

Walking Among the Memorials of Budapest and Linz

In the afternoon of 15 May 2026, with some free time before the end of our river cruise, I decided to revisit the Shoes on the Danube Bank, a site we had briefly seen during our walking tour that morning. From the ship’s docking point, I walked nearly 2km to the Danube embankment where the iron shoes stand in silent testimony to one of Hungary’s darkest chapters.

The Shoes on the Danube Bank is among Budapest’s most moving Holocaust memorials. Created in 2005 by film director Can Togay and sculptor Gyula Pauer, it consists of sixty pairs of iron shoes fixed to the riverbank near the Hungarian Parliament. They commemorate the victims who were executed at this site during the final months of World War II.

In 1944-1945, members of the fascist Arrow Cross militia carried out mass shootings along the Danube. Many victims, most of them Jews, were ordered to remove their shoes before being shot so that the footwear could be reused or sold. Their bodies were then pushed into the river. The memorial captures this atrocity through absence rather than representation: abandoned shoes marking lives suddenly and violently interrupted.

Unlike conventional monuments, there are no heroic figures or grand narratives. The shoes rest at ground level, inviting visitors to look down and reflect on the ordinary humanity of those who perished. Cast in iron, they convey permanence and weight, while their varied styles hint at the individuality of the men, women, and children they represent. Flowers, candles, and small stones left by visitors - echoing Jewish mourning traditions - continue to transform the site into a living place of remembrance. Beside it, the flowing Danube serves as a powerful metaphor for time, loss, and memory.

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Earlier that morning, our walking tour had taken us to Liberty Square in Budapest, where two very different interpretations of Holocaust memory stand side by side.

The official “Memorial for the Victims of the German Occupation,” unveiled in 2014, depicts Hungary as the Archangel Gabriel being attacked by a German imperial eagle. Its symbolism presents Hungary primarily as a victim of Nazi occupation. Historians and Jewish organisations have criticised the monument for downplaying Hungary’s own role in the Holocaust, noting that Hungarian authorities actively participated in the deportation of hundreds of thousands of Jews to Auschwitz in 1944.

Directly in front of the monument is the informal “Living Memorial,” created by citizens, survivors, and descendants who felt that the official narrative failed to acknowledge this responsibility. Composed of family photographs, letters, identity documents, candles, stones, and personal mementoes, it is not state-sponsored or formally curated. Instead, it continues to evolve through public participation.

Together, the two memorials create a powerful dialogue. One is official, permanent, and institutional; the other personal, fragile, and continually changing. The Living Memorial serves as a counter-narrative, restoring individual voices and experiences largely absent from the state monument. Surrounded by important political institutions, Liberty Square has become a symbolic space where competing interpretations of history coexist in full view.

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Earlier in our cruise, when we visited Linz, I encountered yet another approach to remembrance. The city’s Memorial Signs for Victims of National Socialism, designed by Austrian artist Andreas Strauss, consists of slender brass steles placed near the last freely chosen homes of Jewish victims.

Rather than concentrating memory in a single location, these memorials are woven into the urban landscape - along streets, beside shops, and in residential neighbourhoods - ensuring that remembrance becomes part of everyday life. Each stele records names, birth years, and known fates, restoring identity to those who were persecuted and murdered.

A distinctive feature is a small bell attached to each stele. When pressed, it emits a soft chime reminiscent of a household doorbell, evoking both the familiarity of home and the tragedy of lives uprooted by persecution. The simple act of ringing the bell transforms remembrance into a personal and physical experience.

We paused at Altstadt 3 in Linz’s old town. This stele commemorates Berthold Plaschkes, born in 1874 and murdered during the Holocaust, together with other members of his family. Located in a narrow street lined with shops and cafés, the memorial blends into the rhythms of daily life. This juxtaposition creates a quiet but powerful tension between present-day normality and the violence of the past.

Taken together, these three sites - the Shoes on the Danube Bank, the competing memorials of Liberty Square, and the dispersed steles of Linz - demonstrate different ways of confronting the legacy of the Holocaust. One speaks through absence, another through contested memory, and the third through quiet integration into everyday space. None offers simple closure. Instead, each reminds us that remembrance is an ongoing act - one that must continually be revisited, questioned, and renewed.

Budapest, Our Final Cruise Destination

On Day 7 of our cruise, 15 May 2026, we arrived at our final destination - Budapest, a city we had previously visited in September 2018. Returning after nearly eight years brought back many fond memories, while also giving us the opportunity to experience the city from a fresh perspective.

As our ship approached the city, we were greeted by some of Budapest's most iconic landmarks. Standing along the banks of the Danube was the magnificent Parliament House, one of the city's most recognizable architectural masterpieces. In the distance, we could also see the 40-m-high Liberty Statue perched atop Gellért Hill, overlooking the city below. Originally erected after World War II, the monument was rededicated in 1989 to honour all those who sacrificed their lives for Hungary's independence and freedom.

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Our tour of Budapest began at Gerbeaud House in Vörösmarty Square. Unlike previous walking tours, this one started with a special treat - a special breakfast stop at the renowned Gerbeaud Café, one of the city's most historic and elegant establishments. Located in the heart of Budapest, the café has welcomed guests since the 19th century and is celebrated for its refined atmosphere, exquisite pastries, and rich coffee culture. Enjoying breakfast in such a grand setting was a delightful way to begin our exploration of the Hungarian capital.

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Budapest is, in fact, the result of the unification of three historic towns in 1873 - Buda, Pest, and Óbuda (Old Buda). Separated by the majestic Danube River, Buda occupies the hilly western bank, while Pest spreads across the flat eastern plain. Together, they form Hungary's vibrant capital and largest city.

The history of these settlements stretches back more than two thousand years. The area was first inhabited by Celtic tribes before becoming part of the Roman Empire, which established the military and commercial settlement of Aquincum in what is now Óbuda. Following the arrival of the Magyar tribes in the late 9th century, Buda gradually emerged as an important royal and administrative centre. During the Middle Ages, Buda became the seat of Hungarian kings and flourished as a political and cultural hub.

The fortunes of the region changed dramatically in 1541 when the Ottoman Empire captured Buda, beginning nearly 150 years of Turkish rule. During this period, many churches were converted into mosques, and Turkish baths were constructed, some of which still operate today. The Habsburgs recaptured the city in 1686, and over the following centuries both Buda and Pest underwent extensive rebuilding and modernization.

By the 19th century, Pest had developed into the country's commercial and financial centre, while Buda retained its role as the historic and administrative heart of the nation. The opening of the iconic Chain Bridge in 1849 physically linked the two sides of the river, symbolizing the growing unity between the cities. This culminated in 1873 when Buda, Pest, and Óbuda were officially merged to create Budapest.

The newly unified city grew rapidly and became one of the most important urban centres in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Grand boulevards, elegant public buildings, and impressive landmarks such as the Parliament Building were constructed during this period of prosperity. By the early 20th century, Budapest had earned a reputation as one of Europe's most beautiful and cosmopolitan cities.

Today, Budapest is home to nearly 1.7 million residents and serves as Hungary's political, economic, cultural, and educational centre. Buda is known for its historic castle district, winding streets, thermal baths, and panoramic views from the surrounding hills. Pest, on the other hand, is the bustling commercial heart of the city, featuring wide avenues, shopping districts, government buildings, museums, restaurants, and vibrant nightlife.

Despite the many challenges it has faced throughout its history - including wars, occupations, and political upheavals - Budapest has emerged as one of Central Europe's most dynamic and attractive capitals. 

After admiring the Hungarian Parliament Building from the Danube River on several occasions, we finally arrived at Kossuth Square, where this magnificent landmark stands in all its grandeur. Beside the Parliament is the equestrian statue of Count Gyula Andrássy, one of Hungary's most esteemed statesmen. As the country's first Prime Minister following the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867, Andrássy played a pivotal role in shaping modern Hungary and restoring a measure of political autonomy within the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

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In front of St. Stephen's Basilica. This is the largest Roman Catholic church in the city and is dedicated to Hungary's first king, St. Stephen I.

We passed by the Soviet Heroic Memorial located at the Liberty Square. This was erected in 1945 to honor the Red Army soldiers who died during the Battle of Budapest. The monument remains highly controversial among many Hungarians: while it commemorates the country's liberation from Nazi Germany, it also serves as a reminder of the decades of Soviet occupation and communist rule that followed.

Ironically, Liberty Square is best known today for its dancing fountains, the laughter of families, and the fascination of visitors gathering to watch its lively public displays. Yet beneath this atmosphere of leisure and enjoyment lies one of Hungary’s most emotionally charged spaces of public memory. The square serves as a living Holocaust counter-memorial, where personal artifacts, photographs, candles, and messages of remembrance stand in direct confrontation with a highly controversial state-sponsored monument nearby. The juxtaposition is striking: a place filled with everyday joy and recreation is simultaneously a site of mourning, historical contestation, and ongoing reflection on Hungary’s role during the Holocaust.

From our vantage point on the Pest side of the Danube River, we were treated to an exquisite panorama of Buda rising gracefully across the river. The historic hills, elegant architecture, and iconic landmarks created a picture-perfect scene, especially as they reflected upon the shimmering waters of the Danube. Standing in Pest, we could fully appreciate the beauty and grandeur of Budapest’s twin cities, whose contrasting landscapes are united by the river that flows between them.

Our tour concluded near the iconic Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial. Although we could see many visitors gathered around this poignant landmark, our limited schedule did not allow enough time to explore it up close. It is undoubtedly a place worth returning to, both to reflect on its historical significance and to fully appreciate its powerful message.

Before the walking tour ended, we stopped at Séf Asztala for lunch. Located in Kossuth Square beside the Hungarian Parliament Building in central Budapest, Séf Asztala is a contemporary Hungarian bistro, café, and bakery. The venue combines traditional Hungarian comfort food with modern café culture, offering a welcoming dining experience in one of the city's most picturesque settings.

Exploring Bratislava, Slovakia by Sightseeing Train

After completing our walking tour of Bratislava's Old Town, we made our way to Hviezdoslav Square, where the city's distinctive open-sided sightseeing trains offer visitors a convenient introduction to Bratislava's history, culture, and major landmarks.

At first, we were hesitant about joining the tour. It seemed rather pricey and touristy, and we wondered whether it would be worth the time and expense. Sensing our uncertainty, one of the operators approached us and offered a discounted fare. The gesture was enough to persuade us, and we decided to give it a try. Besides the four of us, only two other passengers - a mother and her young child - were on board, making for a relaxed and comfortable journey.

Departing from Hviezdoslav Square, the train wound its way through some of the most significant parts of the Slovak capital. As we sat back and enjoyed the ride, we passed several notable attractions, including the historic Slovak National Theatre, the Parliament Building and the striking inverted-pyramid headquarters of Slovak Radio, one of the city's most unusual architectural landmarks. Along the route, we also caught glimpses of St. Martin's Cathedral, the Danube waterfront, and the famous UFO Observation Deck perched atop the UFO Bridge.

The Parliament Building.

UFO Observation Deck perched atop the UFO Bridge or SNP Bridge.

St. Martin Cathedral.

The highlight of the tour was undoubtedly the stop at Bratislava Castle, one of Slovakia's most iconic landmarks. Perched high above the Danube River, the castle commands spectacular views of Bratislava's Old Town, the modern city beyond, and even neighboring Austria in the distance. 

Bratislava Castle is a historic fortress overlooking the Danube River in Slovakia's capital. Its hilltop location has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with evidence of Stone Age settlements, a Celtic fortified town, and Roman frontier activity.

In the 9th century, the site became an important stronghold of the Great Moravian Empire. After the region joined the Kingdom of Hungary, a stone castle was built and gradually expanded. During the 15th century, King Sigismund of Luxembourg transformed it into a major Gothic fortress with strong defensive features.

The castle was rebuilt in Renaissance style during the 16th century and later gained Baroque elements. Its golden age came in the 18th century under Maria Theresa, when it served as a luxurious royal residence and political center.

After losing importance, the castle was converted into military barracks. In 1811, a devastating fire destroyed much of the complex, leaving it in ruins for nearly 150 years. Restoration began in 1953 and continued until 1968, returning the castle to its historic appearance.

Today, Bratislava Castle is a national symbol of Slovakia, housing museum exhibitions, hosting official events, and attracting visitors with its rich history and panoramic views of the city and surrounding region.

Unfortunately, our stop lasted only about twenty minutes, leaving little time to properly explore the castle grounds or visit its exhibitions. Instead, we wandered around the terraces, admired the panoramic scenery, and took as many photographs as possible before rejoining the train.

Equestrian statute of Svatopluk I known as Svatopluk the Great, a 9th century rule of Moravia.

Although the tour was relatively short, it provided an enjoyable overview of Bratislava's rich history, distinctive architecture, and scenic viewpoints. In less than two hours, we gained a broader perspective of the city than we could have achieved on foot alone, making the ride a worthwhile addition to our day in the Slovak capital.

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That evening, we enjoyed another fantastic dinner with company of good friends. The next morning, we will be at our final destination - Budapest of Hungary.