Parting with Memories, Looking Forward to the Next Reunion

14 July, the night before we flew home from Sapporo the following morning, we had a simple but enjoyable dinner at a small ramen outlet called Ramen Tosaka (飛鶏魚). As someone familiar with Chinese, I found its unusual name, 飛鶏魚, particularly intriguing. The three kanji literally mean “flying chicken fish,” making the Chinese interpretation both amusing and puzzling.

The name, however, is a clever piece of Japanese wordplay. Tosaka normally refers to the comb or crest of a rooster, written as 鶏冠. The unusual choice of 飛鶏魚 therefore evokes the image of a chicken while incorporating the characters for both “chicken” and “fish.” More importantly, it reflects the restaurant’s culinary concept, which combines chicken-based broth with fish-based dashi, particularly dried sardines.

Having our last dinner in Japan at such a uniquely named ramen outlet, just hours before leaving Sapporo, gave our trip a delightful and unexpected final touch. “Flying Chicken Fish” may sound rather amusing in Chinese, but it certainly provided us with a wonderful and a memorable ending to our Japan journey.

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We left early the next morning, 15 July, for New Chitose Airport in Sapporo to catch our 11:40 a.m. flight home. Serene’s family, whose flight back to Western Australia was not until 4:00 p.m., kindly accompanied us to the airport in the rented van to see us off. After our departure, they still had a couple of hours to explore some nearby places before returning to the airport for their own flight.

At the airport, it was a bittersweet moment for the grandparents and grandchildren. We were happy and grateful to have shared such a wonderful family reunion - travelling together, exploring new places, and enjoying so many interesting and delicious foods along the way. These shared experiences had given us many precious memories that we would cherish for years to come.

Yet, beneath the happiness was a sense of sadness as we said our goodbyes. The time had passed far too quickly. As the years go by and age catches up with all of us, such family reunions become increasingly precious. We could only hope that this would not be our last journey together. Thankfully, we already have another planned family trip to Thailand to look forward to, giving us something wonderful to anticipate - a chance to meet again, create more happy memories, and once again enjoy each other’s company.

An Unforgettable Detour to Hokkaido's Historic Port Town, Otaru

After our stay in Furano, we made our way back to Sapporo on 14 July for our final night in Hokkaido before flying home the following day. Rather than heading directly to our Airbnb, we decided to make a short detour to Otaru, a charming port town that had not been included in our original itinerary.

That decision turned out to be one of the pleasant surprises of our journey. Otaru possesses a distinctive character quite unlike the other places we had visited in Hokkaido. With its well preserved historic buildings, picturesque canal, and streets lined with quaint shops, cafés, and glassware boutiques, the town exudes an old-time charm. Although our visit was brief, it was more than enough to convince us that Otaru is a destination well worth exploring. 

Our first stop was the Otaru Canal, a famous landmark of Otaru and a lasting reminder of the town's prosperous maritime heritage. Completed in 1923, this 1km long canal was originally built to allow small barges to transport cargo between large ships anchored offshore and the warehouses lining the waterfront. During the early 20th century, Otaru flourished as Hokkaido's principal trading port, handling coal, seafood, and goods from across Japan.

As modern port facilities developed after the Second World War, the canal gradually lost its commercial importance. In the 1960s, there were plans to fill it in to make way for roads, but strong public support for preserving Otaru's history led to the restoration of part of the canal instead. Today, the beautifully preserved stone warehouses have been transformed into cafés, restaurants, museums, shops, and hotels, while a cobblestone promenade provides a delightful setting for a leisurely stroll.

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From the canal, we made our way to Sakaimachi Street, Otaru's most famous tourist street and the vibrant heart of the city's historic district. Lined with beautifully preserved stone warehouses and elegant Western-style merchant buildings dating back to Otaru's prosperous trading era, the street exudes old-world charm. Today, these heritage buildings have been transformed into an attractive collection of souvenir shops, cafés, museums, and specialty stores. Like many visitors, we wandered into several of the shops to browse Otaru's renowned handcrafted glassware, admire the exquisite music boxes, and sample Hokkaido's famous confectioneries, including LeTAO's signature Double Fromage cheesecake.

What captivated me most, however, were several old buildings adorned with lush green façades, their walls almost completely blanketed by thick climbing vines. The sight instantly transported me back to October 2014, when we visited Giverny, the picturesque French village where the renowned Impressionist painter Claude Monet once lived. The vine-covered buildings evoked the same timeless beauty and tranquil atmosphere that had left such a lasting impression on us more than a decade ago (Read here).

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Before leaving Otaru, we stopped for lunch at Kita No Ryoba Otaru Unga Ten (北之渔场), a restaurant that specialises in fresh Hokkaido seafood. Among the dishes we ordered, my wife's clear favourite was the Kaisen-don (海鮮丼). The bowl featured an abundant assortment of premium sashimi - including salmon, tuna, scallops, prawns, and other seasonal seafood - beautifully arranged over a bed of rice. Every slice was remarkably fresh, showcasing the exceptional quality of Hokkaido's seafood. It was a simple yet memorable meal, and a fitting finale to our delightful visit to Otaru before returning to Sapporo for our last night in Hokkaido.

The Japanese Dining Experience: Patience, Queues and Quality Food at Country Kitchen Kazamidori, Furano

After dining at several restaurants in Sapporo, I came to appreciate that queuing to be called in is a normal part of the Japanese dining experience, especially at popular ramen shops, soup curry restaurants, sushi outlets, and seafood restaurants. Many Japanese restaurants are relatively small, with limited seating capacity, so customers patiently wait for their turn. These queues are not just for tourists; locals also willingly line up for restaurants that are well known for their quality and reputation. A waiting time of around 20 to 30 minutes is considered quite normal, while longer waits are common at especially popular establishments.

This experience continued when we visited Country Kitchen Kazamidori (風見鶏) in Furano. We arrived at 5:30 pm, well before its 6:00 pm opening time, yet a small crowd had already gathered ahead of us - a clear sign of the restaurant’s popularity. Located at a quiet countryside road junction, Kazamidori is a charming rural restaurant celebrated for its rustic atmosphere and dishes prepared with fresh local ingredients from Furano, Hokkaido.

The restaurant has a warm farmhouse character, featuring a cosy wooden interior decorated with countless handwritten messages left by previous visitors. These personal notes create a nostalgic and welcoming atmosphere, adding to the restaurant’s unique rural charm and making it a memorable stop for travellers exploring Furano.

Kazamidori specialises in yoshoku, Japanese-style Western cuisine that combines Western cooking techniques with Japanese flavours and local ingredients. Its signature dish is the Furano Cheese Fondue, made with locally produced cheese and served with bread and vegetables. Other popular dishes include baked curry, hamburg steak, beef stew, steak, and meals featuring fresh seasonal vegetables from the surrounding region.

A bit bored with the waiting for the food!

 

Hamberger Steak with Curry - A thick, juicy Japanese-style steak. Smothered in a deeply flavoured, rich Japanese curry sauce.

Chicken Steak Set Meal.

Beef stew set - A rich, savory Japanese-style beef stew slow-cooked in traditional black iron pot until the meat is melt in the mouth tender. Served with signature side plate of Furano grilled vegetables.

Steak Set - A pan-seared steak served with pumpkin cream soup. Come with a bowl of Furano grilled vegetables.

Furano Cheese Fondue with an assortment of Furano vegetables for dipping.

Tsuboyaki Curry - It features a rich, slowly simmered Japanese curry served inside a red ceramic pot. The top of the pot is sealed  with a layer of pizza dough that puffs up into a golden dome.

Our granddaughter, Grace too left a short message - pinned on a small board.

By the time we finished the meal, it's 7.20pm.

A Culinary Discovery in Furano: Savouring Premium Furano Wagyu at A Bientot

We first learned about A Bientot Furano, a restaurant in Furano, through a promotional brochure at the Airbnb where we were staying. Intrigued by its reputation, we decided to try it for dinner on 12 July. However, when we arrived, we were disappointed to learn that the restaurant was fully booked for the evening. The staff kindly informed us that we could return the following day, preferably before 5 pm, to avoid disappointment.

Determined not to miss the opportunity to experience this highly recommended restaurant, we decided instead to visit for lunch the next day. We arrived before opening time at 12 noon and were delighted to be the very first customers of the day.

A Bientot Furano is renowned for its premium Furano Wagyu sukiyaki. Rather than offering an extensive menu, the restaurant focuses on showcasing the exceptional quality of locally raised Furano Wagyu beef, one of Hokkaido’s finest regional specialties. Furano Wagyu is highly prized for its fine marbling, rich flavour and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness.

For our meal, we chose the traditional Japanese sukiyaki experience. Thin slices of Wagyu beef were gently simmered in a mildly sweet soy-based broth together with tofu, mushrooms, Chinese cabbage, onions and other fresh vegetables. Each slice of tender beef was then dipped into fresh raw egg before being savoured, creating a smooth and silky texture that enhanced the natural flavour of the meat. The broth, carefully prepared using premium Hokkaido kombu (kelp), provided a deep umami taste without being overly sweet.

It was a memorable dining experience that allowed us to appreciate the exceptional quality of Furano’s local produce and the artistry behind Japanese Wagyu cuisine.

Spiritual Landscape of Japan

When travelling through European countries, one cannot help but notice the abundance of old and magnificent church buildings. In contrast, when travelling in Japan, one rarely encounters church buildings. Instead, the religious landscape is shaped mainly by traditional Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. Among them, Shinto shrines are easily recognised by the distinctive Torii gate at their entrances. These shrines are often quietly integrated into the surroundings, found among forests, mountains, neighbourhoods, and even within busy urban areas.

Although it is widely acknowledged that many Japanese identify with Shinto traditions or Buddhism, it is difficult to determine the number of people who actively practise these religions in a regular and devoted manner. For many Japanese, religion is often less about strict belief or weekly worship and more closely connected with cultural traditions, life events, and respect for nature and ancestors.

During my visit to Japan, I did observe scenes that offered a glimpse into this quiet form of religious practice. In one morning, I saw a man - possibly on his way to work - making brief stop at a Shinto shrine. He stood before the altar, bowed twice, clapped the hands twice, bowed once again, and then left almost immediately. This simple act I believe was his way of seeking blessings before beginning the day.

Such observations reveal an important aspect of Japanese spirituality: it is often subtle, understated, and woven into daily life rather than expressed through large gatherings or imposing religious structures. While Europe’s religious heritage is often displayed through grand cathedrals and churches, Japan’s spiritual traditions are found in quieter spaces - through shrines, rituals, and a deep cultural connection with nature and tradition.

One of the things that has always impressed me while travelling around the world is encountering cities that are remarkably clean. I still remember being struck by how well the Russians kept their city clean during my visit to Moscow (Read here).

Japan, however, took this to another level. Throughout our journey, I hardly came across any public dustbins, yet the streets, parks and railway stations were exceptionally clean and virtually free of litter. I was told that most Japanese simply do not throw rubbish in public places. Instead, they keep their waste in their pockets or bags and carry it with them until they find an appropriate dustbin or rubbish bin. I personally witnessed this practice while waiting for Serene's family to arrive at Sapporo Airport. People patiently held on to their empty drink bottles, wrappers and other rubbish until they reached the designated disposal area.

At a public toilet near the Blue Pond in Biei, I noticed a sign clearly reminding visitors to take their personal rubbish home. It was a simple yet powerful reflection of Japan's culture of personal responsibility and respect for shared public spaces.

Another distinctive feature of Japanese society is the custom of bowing. Whether greeting someone, expressing appreciation or acknowledging thanks, a respectful bow is an integral part of everyday interaction. It is a simple gesture, yet it conveys humility, respect and sincerity.

Are these admirable qualities - a commitment to keeping the environment clean and a culture of respect and gratitude - the result of Shinto beliefs, or are they simply enduring cultural values passed down through generations? Shinto, Japan's indigenous faith, places great emphasis on purity, cleanliness and respect for people and nature. Over many centuries, these values have become deeply woven into Japanese society, reinforced by family upbringing, schools and social expectations. Today, regardless of whether a person actively practises Shinto, these behaviours have become hallmarks of Japanese culture and are admired by visitors from around the world.

Torii Gate.