Spiritual Landscape of Japan

When travelling through European countries, one cannot help but notice the abundance of old and magnificent church buildings. In contrast, when travelling in Japan, one rarely encounters church buildings. Instead, the religious landscape is shaped mainly by traditional Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. Among them, Shinto shrines are easily recognised by the distinctive Torii gate at their entrances. These shrines are often quietly integrated into the surroundings, found among forests, mountains, neighbourhoods, and even within busy urban areas.

Although it is widely acknowledged that many Japanese identify with Shinto traditions or Buddhism, it is difficult to determine the number of people who actively practise these religions in a regular and devoted manner. For many Japanese, religion is often less about strict belief or weekly worship and more closely connected with cultural traditions, life events, and respect for nature and ancestors.

During my visit to Japan, I did observe scenes that offered a glimpse into this quiet form of religious practice. In one morning, I saw a man - possibly on his way to work - making brief stop at a Shinto shrine. He stood before the altar, bowed twice, clapped the hands twice, bowed once again, and then left almost immediately. This simple act I believe was his way of seeking blessings before beginning the day.

Such observations reveal an important aspect of Japanese spirituality: it is often subtle, understated, and woven into daily life rather than expressed through large gatherings or imposing religious structures. While Europe’s religious heritage is often displayed through grand cathedrals and churches, Japan’s spiritual traditions are found in quieter spaces - through shrines, rituals, and a deep cultural connection with nature and tradition.

One of the things that has always impressed me while travelling around the world is encountering cities that are remarkably clean. I still remember being struck by how well the Russians kept their city clean during my visit to Moscow (Read here).

Japan, however, took this to another level. Throughout our journey, I hardly came across any public dustbins, yet the streets, parks and railway stations were exceptionally clean and virtually free of litter. I was told that most Japanese simply do not throw rubbish in public places. Instead, they keep their waste in their pockets or bags and carry it with them until they find an appropriate dustbin or rubbish bin. I personally witnessed this practice while waiting for Serene's family to arrive at Sapporo Airport. People patiently held on to their empty drink bottles, wrappers and other rubbish until they reached the designated disposal area.

At a public toilet near the Blue Pond in Biei, I noticed a sign clearly reminding visitors to take their personal rubbish home. It was a simple yet powerful reflection of Japan's culture of personal responsibility and respect for shared public spaces.

Another distinctive feature of Japanese society is the custom of bowing. Whether greeting someone, expressing appreciation or acknowledging thanks, a respectful bow is an integral part of everyday interaction. It is a simple gesture, yet it conveys humility, respect and sincerity.

Are these admirable qualities - a commitment to keeping the environment clean and a culture of respect and gratitude - the result of Shinto beliefs, or are they simply enduring cultural values passed down through generations? Shinto, Japan's indigenous faith, places great emphasis on purity, cleanliness and respect for people and nature. Over many centuries, these values have become deeply woven into Japanese society, reinforced by family upbringing, schools and social expectations. Today, regardless of whether a person actively practises Shinto, these behaviours have become hallmarks of Japanese culture and are admired by visitors from around the world.

Torii Gate.

Shirahige Waterfall and the Tokachidake Volcano Experience

Immediately after our visit to the Blue Pond, we drove another 3km to Shirahige Waterfall, one of Hokkaido's most picturesque natural attractions. The waterfall derives its name from the countless thin streams of water that emerge from cracks in the rocky cliff, resembling the flowing white beard of an elderly man. Unlike most waterfalls, where water plunges over the edge of a river, Shirahige Waterfall is a groundwater waterfall. Mineral-rich underground water naturally springs through the volcanic rock before cascading about 30m into the Biei River below.

To enjoy the best view of the waterfall, we stopped midway along the Blue River Bridge. From this vantage point, we admired the white streams cascading into the brilliant blue waters of the Biei River, while taking in the panoramic backdrop of the Tokachidake mountain range.

After crossing the bridge, we climbed the long covered staircase leading uphill to the Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center (also known as the Tokachidake Volcanic Gallery - VOLGA). More than just a museum, the centre serves both as an educational facility for visitors and as a disaster-monitoring centre for the active Tokachidake volcanic range.

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That wasn't an easy climb. Finally, after 286 steps, we reached the top where Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center is situated. 

Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center.

A picture on display at the centre showing the flow of lahars.

Inside the Tokachidake Volcano Sedimentation Information Center, we gained a deeper understanding of Mount Tokachi, one of Japan's most active volcanoes. Through informative displays, photographs, videos and interactive exhibits, we learnt about the geological history of the Tokachidake volcanic range and the science behind volcanic eruptions. Scale models demonstrated how eruptions occur, how volcanic mudflows develop, and how scientists continuously monitor volcanic activity using seismic sensors, surveillance cameras and rainfall gauges. The information collected enables authorities to issue timely warnings and coordinate emergency responses when necessary.

While volcanic eruptions are often associated with flowing lava, one of the greatest hazards in this region is the occurrence of lahars - fast-moving mixtures of volcanic ash, rocks, mud, snow and water that can surge down valleys with devastating force. To protect nearby communities, roads and tourist attractions, the Japanese government has constructed an extensive network of erosion and sediment-control structures. The centre explains how these dams and barriers help reduce the destructive impact of volcanic mudflows and safeguard lives and property.

Outside the building, an observation area offers magnificent panoramic views of Mount Tokachi, where steam can sometimes be seen rising from the volcano on clear days. The centre also serves as an emergency headquarters during periods of heightened volcanic activity, supporting evacuation planning, disaster management and public safety. Our visit provided not only a fascinating insight into the powerful geological forces that have shaped Hokkaido, but also a deeper appreciation of Japan's remarkable commitment to disaster preparedness and resilience.

Coincidentally, news reports today revealed that 34 people had been killed when a powerful earthquake struck Kumamoto Prefecture in Japan's southern island of Kyushu on 28 July. It was a sobering reminder that Japan lies on the Pacific Ring of Fire, making it one of the world's most seismically and volcanically active countries (Read here)!

Biei's Blue Pond: More Green Than Blue

Soon after breakfast at our Airbnb in Furano on 13 July, we set off for Biei to visit the famous Blue Pond, one of Hokkaido's most celebrated natural attractions. Renowned for its striking blue water and tranquil surroundings, the pond has become an iconic destination that draws visitors from around the world.

The Blue Pond in actual fact is not a natural lake. It was formed accidentally in the late 1980s when a dam was built to protect nearby communities from volcanic mudflows originating from Mount Tokachi. Water gradually collected behind the dam, creating the pond seen today. Over time, nature transformed this man-made reservoir into one of Japan's most picturesque landscapes.

The pond's remarkable colour is the result of a natural phenomenon. Mineral-rich water containing fine aluminium particles mixes with the crystal-clear water of the Biei River. These tiny particles scatter sunlight, particularly the blue wavelengths, giving the pond its famous turquoise hue. However, its colour is never constant. Depending on the weather, the angle of the sun and the viewing position, the water may appear vivid blue, emerald green or even grey.

When we finally arrived and gazed upon the pond, it was more green than blue! Instead of the brilliant azure often seen in photographs, the water had a soft emerald tint. It instantly reminded me of Peyto Lake in the Canadian Rockies, which I visited in September 2017 during our memorable drive from Banff to Jasper (Read here). Although they are formed in very different ways, both bodies of water possess an almost surreal beauty created by the minerals suspended in the water.

Adding to the pond's charm are the pale, leafless larch trees rising silently from the water. These trees were submerged when the pond was formed and have remained standing ever since, creating an ethereal landscape that has become the Blue Pond's signature.

The Blue Pond publicized in an advertisement.

The surroundings of the Blue Pond were surprisingly lush and green. Beyond the pond itself, the area was carpeted with a rich variety of flowering plants, wild grasses and dense woodland, creating a refreshing natural setting. Delicate wildflowers added splashes of colour along the walking paths, while butterflies, dragonflies and other tiny insects hovered gracefully among the blossoms. The gentle buzz of insects and the rustling of leaves in the breeze enhanced the tranquil atmosphere, making the visit as much about appreciating the surrounding ecosystem as admiring the famous pond itself. It was a peaceful reminder that the Blue Pond is not just a single scenic attraction, but part of a vibrant and thriving natural landscape.

A Rustic Cabin, A Long Queue and an Unforgettable Dinner in Furano

The evening after our visit to Farm Tomita, we drove to Yuiga Dokuson (唯我独尊) for dinner, one of Furano's highly acclaimed restaurants. The restaurant's Chinese name is rather intriguing, literally translating to "Supreme and Unrivalled", a bold declaration that certainly raised our expectations.

Upon arrival at around 7.00 pm, we were surprised to find the restaurant housed in a rustic wooden cabin. The small, unpaved car park was filled with large waterlogged potholes after the rain, making parking and walking a little challenging. Even more surprising was the long queue of diners already waiting patiently outside. Despite the less-than-ideal parking conditions, no one seemed deterred. Long queues are, in fact, a common sight here, with waiting times often exceeding an hour during the peak tourist season.

The restaurant's popularity stems from its reputation, consistently high customer ratings, authentic flavours, and limited seating capacity. Diners from all over Japan, as well as overseas visitors, are willing to wait because they believe the quality of the food is well worth the time. For many visitors to Furano, dining at Yuiga Dokuson is more than just having a meal - it has become a culinary experience and one of the highlights of a trip to central Hokkaido.

Yuiga Dokuson is known for its rich, aromatic Japanese curry, prepared with a blend of about 30 spices and slowly cooked with vegetables to create a deep, complex flavour. Its signature dishes include Omu Sausage Curry, featuring a fluffy cheese-filled omelette served over saffron rice with curry sauce.

Adding to its charm is a unique tradition: customers who still have rice remaining on their plates can request a complimentary refill of curry sauce, a thoughtful gesture that has become part of the restaurant's identity and leaves many diners with an even more memorable experience.

The Omu-Sausage Curry 

The Homemade Sausage Curry

The Omelette Curry Rice with Homemade Sausage

Experiencing Hokkaido's Lavender Season

One of the highlights of our visit to Hokkaido in July was experiencing its spectacular lavender season. During this time of year, the Furano region is transformed into a sea of vibrant purple, creating one of Japan's most iconic summer landscapes. Blessed with a cool climate, long daylight hours, fertile volcanic soil, and crisp mountain air, Hokkaido provides ideal conditions for lavender to flourish. The flowers reach their peak bloom from early to mid-July, making this brief period the perfect time to enjoy both the breathtaking scenery and the soothing fragrance of the lavender fields.

Lavender was first cultivated in Hokkaido in the early 20th century for the production of perfume and essential oils. Although demand for lavender oil declined in later years, the flower fields gained nationwide recognition during the 1970s through tourism campaigns. This transformed Furano into one of Japan's premier summer destinations. Today, the annual lavender season is celebrated not only for its stunning beauty but also as a symbol of Hokkaido's rich agricultural heritage and pristine natural environment.

We were fortunate to visit three lavender fields during our journey. Just before reaching Château Furano, we came across our first lavender field, where neat rows of purple blossoms stretched across the countryside, offering a delightful introduction to Hokkaido's famous floral season.

Later, we drove to the region's most celebrated attraction - Farm Tomita in Nakafurano, widely regarded as the birthplace of Hokkaido's lavender tourism. After walking uphill from the Tomita Melon House, we spent a considerable amount of time strolling through its beautifully landscaped gardens and taking in the panoramic views. Beyond the lavender, the gardens were alive with colourful displays of poppies, lilies, sunflowers, and many other seasonal flowers, creating a spectacular rainbow of colours set against the majestic Tokachi Mountain Range.

Our third and final stop was the Hinode Lavender Garden in Kamifurano. Perched on a gentle hillside, the garden offered sweeping views of the surrounding countryside, with fragrant lavender fields stretching beneath the summer sky. It provided a peaceful and fitting conclusion to our exploration of Hokkaido's lavender landscapes.

Visiting these lavender fields was an unforgettable experience and undoubtedly one of the most memorable highlights of our summer journey through Hokkaido. The breathtaking scenery, delicate fragrance, and tranquil atmosphere combined to create lasting memories of one of Japan's most beautiful seasonal spectacles.

Near Chateau Furano

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Tomita Farm

Tomita Melon House.

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Hinode Lavender Garden in Kamifurano

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