On Day 7 of our cruise, 15 May 2026, we arrived at our final destination - Budapest, a city we had previously visited in September 2018. Returning after nearly eight years brought back many fond memories, while also giving us the opportunity to experience the city from a fresh perspective.
As our ship approached the city, we were greeted by some of Budapest's most iconic landmarks. Standing along the banks of the Danube was the magnificent Parliament House, one of the city's most recognizable architectural masterpieces. In the distance, we could also see the 40-m-high Liberty Statue perched atop Gellért Hill, overlooking the city below. Originally erected after World War II, the monument was rededicated in 1989 to honour all those who sacrificed their lives for Hungary's independence and freedom.
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Our tour of Budapest began at Gerbeaud House in Vörösmarty Square. Unlike previous walking tours, this one started with a special treat - a special breakfast stop at the renowned Gerbeaud Café, one of the city's most historic and elegant establishments. Located in the heart of Budapest, the café has welcomed guests since the 19th century and is celebrated for its refined atmosphere, exquisite pastries, and rich coffee culture. Enjoying breakfast in such a grand setting was a delightful way to begin our exploration of the Hungarian capital.
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Budapest is, in fact, the result of the unification of three historic towns in 1873 - Buda, Pest, and Óbuda (Old Buda). Separated by the majestic Danube River, Buda occupies the hilly western bank, while Pest spreads across the flat eastern plain. Together, they form Hungary's vibrant capital and largest city.
The history of these settlements stretches back more than two thousand years. The area was first inhabited by Celtic tribes before becoming part of the Roman Empire, which established the military and commercial settlement of Aquincum in what is now Óbuda. Following the arrival of the Magyar tribes in the late 9th century, Buda gradually emerged as an important royal and administrative centre. During the Middle Ages, Buda became the seat of Hungarian kings and flourished as a political and cultural hub.
The fortunes of the region changed dramatically in 1541 when the Ottoman Empire captured Buda, beginning nearly 150 years of Turkish rule. During this period, many churches were converted into mosques, and Turkish baths were constructed, some of which still operate today. The Habsburgs recaptured the city in 1686, and over the following centuries both Buda and Pest underwent extensive rebuilding and modernization.
By the 19th century, Pest had developed into the country's commercial and financial centre, while Buda retained its role as the historic and administrative heart of the nation. The opening of the iconic Chain Bridge in 1849 physically linked the two sides of the river, symbolizing the growing unity between the cities. This culminated in 1873 when Buda, Pest, and Óbuda were officially merged to create Budapest.
The newly unified city grew rapidly and became one of the most important urban centres in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Grand boulevards, elegant public buildings, and impressive landmarks such as the Parliament Building were constructed during this period of prosperity. By the early 20th century, Budapest had earned a reputation as one of Europe's most beautiful and cosmopolitan cities.
Today, Budapest is home to nearly 1.7 million residents and serves as Hungary's political, economic, cultural, and educational centre. Buda is known for its historic castle district, winding streets, thermal baths, and panoramic views from the surrounding hills. Pest, on the other hand, is the bustling commercial heart of the city, featuring wide avenues, shopping districts, government buildings, museums, restaurants, and vibrant nightlife.
Despite the many challenges it has faced throughout its history - including wars, occupations, and political upheavals - Budapest has emerged as one of Central Europe's most dynamic and attractive capitals.
After admiring the Hungarian Parliament Building from the Danube River on several occasions, we finally arrived at Kossuth Square, where this magnificent landmark stands in all its grandeur. Beside the Parliament is the equestrian statue of Count Gyula Andrássy, one of Hungary's most esteemed statesmen. As the country's first Prime Minister following the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867, Andrássy played a pivotal role in shaping modern Hungary and restoring a measure of political autonomy within the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
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In front of St. Stephen's Basilica. This is the largest Roman Catholic church in the city and is dedicated to Hungary's first king, St. Stephen I.
We passed by the Soviet Heroic Memorial located at the Liberty Square. This was erected in 1945 to honor the Red Army soldiers who died during the Battle of Budapest. The monument remains highly controversial among many Hungarians: while it commemorates the country's liberation from Nazi Germany, it also serves as a reminder of the decades of Soviet occupation and communist rule that followed.
Ironically, Liberty Square is best known today for its dancing fountains, the laughter of families, and the fascination of visitors gathering to watch its lively public displays. Yet beneath this atmosphere of leisure and enjoyment lies one of Hungary’s most emotionally charged spaces of public memory. The square serves as a living Holocaust counter-memorial, where personal artifacts, photographs, candles, and messages of remembrance stand in direct confrontation with a highly controversial state-sponsored monument nearby. The juxtaposition is striking: a place filled with everyday joy and recreation is simultaneously a site of mourning, historical contestation, and ongoing reflection on Hungary’s role during the Holocaust.
From our vantage point on the Pest side of the Danube River, we were treated to an exquisite panorama of Buda rising gracefully across the river. The historic hills, elegant architecture, and iconic landmarks created a picture-perfect scene, especially as they reflected upon the shimmering waters of the Danube. Standing in Pest, we could fully appreciate the beauty and grandeur of Budapest’s twin cities, whose contrasting landscapes are united by the river that flows between them.
Our tour concluded near the iconic Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial. While we could see many people gathered around this poignant landmark, our limited schedule meant we were unable to visit it up close. It's certainly a place worth returning to for a more meaningful experience.
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