Old Underground City of Matera, Italy

After our visit to Amalfi, we travelled east for about 230Km to reach our next destination - Matera. By the time we arrived at our hotel, UNAHOTELS MH Matera, it's dinner time and then bed time. The next morning after breakfast at the hotel, we were driven to Matera.

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Many people got to know Matera because of the James Bond's movie, "No Time to Die". The movie opens with a spectacular chase through the ancient hilltop town, the Sassi District of Matera. The action sequence showcases Bond maneuvering through winding alleys and over stone structures in one of Italy's most unique landscape.

Some of the scenes in the movie "The Passion of Christ" too were shot at Sassi in Matera. The director, Mel Gibson chose this place because of its stone structures, narrow and winding streets which resemble the historical Jerusalem.

Shooting of "No Time to Die".

Scene of "No Time to Die".

At the road where Daniel Craig as James Bond drove on and sped his car!

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Matera is one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. The Sassi district is a network of ancient cave dwellings carved into the limestone rock known to many as the "Underground City". An internet search indicates that Matera's history dates back as far as Paleolithic period (about 10,000 years ago) when every early humans first settled in these natural caves for shelters. Over the centuries, Matera has seen significant evolution, from prehistoric settlements to a medieval religious hub and more recently, a UNESCO World heritage Site declared in 1993.

Our local tour guide told us she once stayed in this old town. Her grandmother was born and spent all her life there. She recalled the dampness and foul smell in the cave house when animals and humans were staying side by side together.

In the 20th century, Matera became synonymous with poverty as it was one of Italy's poorest regions. Incidences of ill health and sicknesses among residents staying there were highest compared to people staying in other regions. In 1950's, the Italian government decided to relocate the local residents from this underground city due to poor living conditions and moving them to new modern housing estates.

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The local tour guide recalled that when the government first implemented the relocation exercise, the residents were offered compensation to give up their properties. But by the 1980's, the Italian government was unable to pay any more due to lack of fund. Hence, about 20% of the residents were allowed to keep their properties. 

Then foreign tourists began arriving to see this old abandoned city. In 2019, Matera was named the European Capital of Culture, which dramatically increased more interest from travelers across the globe. The need for more accommodation also increased to cope with the influx of travelers. Many old historical homes were refurbished and turned into boutique hotels and Airbnb rentals. Hence, those 20% residents who still have their properties ended up to be the fortunate ones to benefit from the influx of tourist monies!

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The Church of St. Francis of Assisi is a Catholic Church. The name traced back to a visit by St. Francis of Assisi in 1218. The Church has undergone numerous transformations, with the original structure dating back to the first half of the 13th century. This was enlarged in the 15th century and renovated to its current state in the 18th century with the construction of the Baroque facade. The facade has three statutes in the upper part - Virgin Mary in the centre, St. Francis and St. Anthony on the sides.

My wife with Alice Kok in front of the
Church of St. Francis of Assisi.

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At the Church of Purgatory, the tour guide drew our attention to the many skull motifs on the entrance door and walls. She explained that the skulls and other symbolic motifs are a reminder of "Remember You Must Die". They were intended to remind parishioners of their mortality and the importance of living a virtual life to ensure the salvation of their souls. 

The Church was built between 1725 and 1747. Story has it that at that time, the local people were obsessed with death and the concept of purgatory. There was a local influential cult, The Cult of Souls in Purgatory along with the Brotherhood of Death who were instrumental in the many visual depictions of death included in the facade and within the church. The church was dedicated to the death.

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Palazzo Lanfranchi, originally built between 1668 and 1672 and used as a seminary. It is now the National Museum of Matera.

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Before we ended the tour of Sassi, we were taken to an old cemetery where bodies have been exhumed. On the hillside across the deep gorge, old abandoned caves are still visible.  

For the physically fit travelers who are keen to see these old caves, they can walk and venture up the hill to have a closer look (Left Photo). That rather daunting endeavour is unlikely meant for us!