Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Xian - The Ancient City

Unlike our previous tours arranged through professional tour companies, this 15D14N tour of Xian and North Xinjiang was a little different. The group was small,  comprising just 20 people, including the tour leaders. While the tour organizer took care of all accommodation and transportation bookings, we were responsible for arranging our own inbound and outbound air tickets. 

Additionally, entrance fees to tourist attractions, as well as lunches and dinners were at our own expense. This flexible dining arrangement gave us the freedom to choose what and where to eat, allowing us to select dishes and portion sizes according to our personal preferences.
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We departed KL for Xian on 22.05.2025 aboard a China Southern Airlines flight at around 8.00am. The journey included a layover at Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport from 12.15pm to 2.25pm. Unfortunately, due to bad weather, we were stranded at Guangzhou Airport for over four hours. 

We finally resumed our flight at 6.15pm, arriving at Xian Xianyang International Airport at 9.00pm - four hours behind the scheduled arrival of 5.00pm. From there, it's another one-hour bus ride before we checked into our hotel, Grand Dynasty Culture Hotel. 
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Our first day in Xian on 23.05.2025 was relaxed and leisurely. Accompanied by our local guide, we did a casual walking tour starting from our hotel. Our route took us to two iconic landmarks - the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower - both rich in history and cultural significance. 

Before visiting these two towers, we strolled through Beiyuanmen Muslim Street just next to the hotel. This is a vibrant narrow street lined with stalls offering a variety of local snacks, fresh fruits and souvenirs - perfect for soaking in the local atmosphere.
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Before reaching our first landmark, we made a stop at Xian Town God Temple. I was particularly impressed by the cantilevered roof of the entrance pergola, skillfully constructed using the traditional Dougong bracket system. 

This unique, interlocking wooden framework supports the extended eaves without the use of nails or glue. This design not only allows for wide overhangs that provide for both shade and protection but also offers remarkable strength and flexibility. This flexibility enables the structure to absorb movement, making it naturally resistant to seismic activities - a brilliant feature of ancient Chinese architectural and engineering craftsmanship (Read here).
Within the temple compound, my wife and I were greatly amused by the wide variety of joss sticks sold at the nearby stalls. There seemed to be incense for every imaginable purpose - to attract love and marriage, promote success in education and career, bring wealth and prosperity, ensure health and longevity, and bestow good fortune and general blessings. It felt as though there was a joss stick for any wish one could possibly think of.

I was reminded of the Cultural Revolution period from 1966 to 1976, when religious practices such as burning incense, temple worship and fortune-seeking rituals were discouraged or outright banned. These traditions were targeted in the campaign to eradicate the "Four Olds" - old customs, old culture, old habits and old ideas. Temples were shuttered, deities removed or destroyed and folk beliefs suppressed.

However, following the economic reforms of 1978, traditional religious practices, including incense offerings and personal prayer rituals, gradually made a comeback. Today, burning incense for blessings is not only accepted but actively encouraged as an expression of cultural heritage and local belief. Both locals and tourists now engage in these age-old customs, blending spirituality with cultural tradition.

In the end, one must recognize that seeking blessings is an intrinsic part of human nature. No matter how modern or rational a society becomes, this fundamental need is difficult, if not impossible to suppress. Even when such practices are dismissed by some as superstitious or backward, they continue to persist in quiet ways, resurfacing when circumstances allow. Whether through prayer, ritual, or simple gestures for good fortune, the human impulse to seek protection, success and happiness remains deeply rooted across cultures and generations!
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The Drum Tower of Xian was originally built in 1380 during the reign of Emperor Hongwu, Ming Dynasty, slightly earlier than the nearby Bell Tower.

Similar to the Bell Tower, it functioned as a timekeeping structure. In contrast to the Bell Tower, where the bell was stricken at dawn, the Drum Tower was beaten at sunset to indicate the end of the day.
The Stephen's Group in front of the Drum Tower - 
From left: Catherine, Stephen, Patrick,
Jenny, my wife, me, Ann and Julian.
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In front of the Bell Tower.
Bell Tower.
The Xian Bell Tower stands at the geographical and historical center of Xian city, marking the intersection of four main roads - East Street, West Street, South Street and North Street.

Originally constructed in 1384 during the Ming Dynasty, the tower served as the city's central hub, from which distances to other parts of the city were traditionally measured. The Tower stands on a raised platform in the middle of a large traffic roundabout. symbolizing the enduring heart of both ancient and modern Xian. The base of the tower is square-shaped, covering an area of 1,377 sq. m.

In ancient time, the Bell Tower functioned as a timekeeping structure, the bell was struck at dawn signaling the opening of the city gates each day - an essential role in the city's daily life and defense system.

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As we strolled through public spaces such as parks, streets and scenic spots, it's common to see individuals recording podcasts or livestreaming sessions. This growing trend reflects China's thriving digital content creation culture, fueled by platforms like TikTok (Douyin) and Xiaohongshu (RED) which actively encourage user-generated content. 

Creators freely share their thoughts, personal stories, or casual conversations, covering a wide range of topics - from local food and historical landmarks and everyday life experiences.
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As we explored Xian, one thing that stood out was the sheer number of shared bicycles scattered throughout the city. These rental bikes, available through various mobile apps, are an incredibly popular and convenient mode of transport for both locals and tourists. They can be found virtually everywhere - neatly parked along sidewalks, outside metro stations, near tourist attractions and even along quiet alleyways.

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