On the afternoon of 23.05.2025, eight among the tour group decided to explore the ancient city wall of Xian. We spent roughly an hour and a half walking atop this historical structure, taking in sweeping panoramic views of the city and its surrounding. This wall, impressive in both scale and preservation, is the largest and the best-preserved ancient city wall still standing in China today.
This walking tour offered us a rare firsthand insight into the sophisticated, multi-layered defense system that once made Xian one of the most formidable fortress cities during the Ming Dynasty. Constructed in 1370 during the reign of Emperor Hongwu, the wall was a critical part of the city's fortifications. At that time, Xian - historically known as Chang'an - served as a key military stronghold and the eastern starting point of the renowned Silk Road, which linked China to Central Asia, Middle East and Europe.
In the 14th century, the walled city was home to an estimated 100,000 to 200,000 inhabitants. These residents included solders, government officials, skilled artisans, merchants and common citizens, all contributing to the city's prosperity and defense.
Today, the ancient walled area covers approximately 14 sq. km. Following decades of urban renewal and relocation efforts, it is estimated that 250,000 people currently reside within the ancient walls - a living testimony to the city's enduring vibrancy.
The wall itself stretches 13.8Km in length, forming a massive rectangular enclosure around the city center. Towering 12m high, its top width ranges from 12m to 14m, while its base extends even further - between 15m and 18m across. The core of the wall consists of densely compacted earth, reinforced with layers of lime, sticky rice and tung oil, a mixture that has remarkable strength that withstood the test of time. Its sturdy grey brick exterior lends both strength and a commanding visual presence to its structure.
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| Photo captured from a YouTube drone footage. |
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| Photo captured from a YouTube drone footage. |
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Encircling the wall is a wide moat, once the first line of defense against potential invaders. Today, this historical feature has been transformed into a peaceful and scenic waterway, blending the grandeur of the past with the natural beauty of the present.
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| Photo captured from a YouTube drone footage. |
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| Photo captured from a YouTube drone footage. |
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| Photo captured from a YouTube drone footage. |
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| Photo captured from a YouTube drone footage. |
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The 12m-14m wide walkway atop the ancient city wall was designed to accommodate not only patrolling solders but also horses and carts, allowing them to move swiftly to any trouble spots in time of enemy attack. The impressive width ensured the efficient transportation of troops, weapons and supplies, enabling a rapid and coordinated response to breaches or assaults along any section of the wall. Such a design reflected the strategic foresight of military architects and engineers of that era, emphasizing the importance of mobility and readiness in the city's defense system.
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Each of the four main gates (North, South, East and West) was protected by a complex gate system that included an outer gate, inner gate and watchtowers. Attackers breaching the outer gate could be trapped in a confined space between two gates, where defenders could attack from above.
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We paused and gazed through the regularly spaced openings along the parapet wall. These gaps, once the integral part of the fortress's defensive system, allowed archers and solders to launch arrows, fire firearms, or pour boiling oils or other scalding substances onto attackers attempting to breach the walls below. This ingenious design provided both protection for the defenders and a strategic advantage against any advancing enemy.
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Lighted Yongning Gate (South Gate) at night.
(Photo captured in the taxi on the way back to our hotel). |
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My wife was a little disappointed as she had hoped to book a rental bike and to cycle along the top of the wall. But by the time we made up our minds, it was already too late. The full 13.8Km loop would have taken an hour and a half to complete, and we would have finished closed to 9.00pm. As for me, I was a bit hesitant, feeling the toll of the long journey the day before - a day filled with flights and layovers from KL to Xian. Still, in hindsight, it would have been a memorable experience, even if we had managed to cycle part of the route!
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After leaving the city wall, we wandered through the nearby streets in search for a place for dinner. Eventually, we stumbled upon a small modest restaurant tucked away in a narrow lane. The eatery was run solely by a lady proprietor, who seemed a bit hesitant to accept our order at first. She explained that she usually only served pre-ordered meals as she worked alone and lacked the manpower to prepare food on the spot. After some friendly conversation, we reached a compromise - she offered to prepare freshly made dumplings which required the least preparation time. We gladly agreed!
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