Hemu Village, Xinjiang

Upon arriving at Hemu Village, we were immediately struck by the overwhelming number of people. The village felt crowded and overly commercialized, with rows of newly built guesthouses and lodges clearly catering to the influx of tourists. What was once a quiet, remote settlement now seemed transformed into a bustling tourist hotspot, its rustic charm partially obscured by modern development.

We learned that Hemu Village is home to the Tuva people - a small, distinctive ethnic group believed to be descendants of ancient Siberian nomads. Closely related to the Tuvans of southern Russia, the Tuva share cultural and linguistic ties with other Turkic-Mongolic peoples of Central Asia. Over the centuries, some Tuva groups migrated south into Mongolia and northern Xinjiang. It is believed that their ancestors arrived in the Hemu and Kanas region several hundred years ago - possibly during the Qing Dynasty or earlier - drawn by the promise of rich pastureland, isolation, and access to abundant hunting and fishing grounds. The Hemu River valley, with its remote location and fertile environment, proved an ideal refuge.

The Tuva language, a Turkic tongue, is still spoken among the elders, while younger generations increasingly use Mandarin. Traditionally, the Tuva were semi-nomadic herders who relied on their livestock - reindeer, sheep, and horses - for sustenance. Even today, horses remain deeply embedded in village life, used for transportation, herding, and ceremonial purposes.

Spiritual traditions here have endured as well. Shamanistic and animist beliefs persist, often interwoven with Tibetan Buddhist practices - reflecting the region’s long-standing role as a cultural and spiritual crossroads between Central Asia, Siberia, and Tibet.

Along the riverbank stood the Tuva’s traditional log homes, known as “Tuva houses.” Built from hand-hewn timber without the use of nails, these sturdy structures reflect centuries-old craftsmanship designed to withstand the harsh winters and biting winds of the Altai Mountains. Their weathered wooden walls speak to generations of resilience, isolation, and quiet connection to the land.

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As we walked further into the village, we noticed individuals tossing pieces of meat into the air to feed eagles circling above in the middle of the road. The majestic birds swooped and glided gracefully, diving down to snatch the food in midair - a fascinating yet slightly out-of-place spectacle in this setting.

Soon, we reached the bridge that lead to the base of a hill. We noticed this was a path that eventually lead to the viewing platform. There and then, we decided to attempt the climb and to get a panorama of the valley. 

Long, wooden decked walkway are provided that guide visitors up the hillside. The climb wasn’t too steep or strenuous - the broad timber path made the ascent rather easy and safe - even inviting pauses along the way to soak in the unfolding scenery. As we rose higher, the view gradually expanded: the rustic rooftops of Hemu far below, the meandering ribbon of the river, and the endless pastures reaching toward the distant Altai ranges.

At the summit, the view was breathtaking. To the west, the snow-dusted peaks of the Altai Mountains loomed in silence. To the south, the Hemu River wound its way gently through the valley. Below, the rooftops of the Tuva homes and the open pastures stretched as far as the eye could see. It felt as if time itself had paused to let us admire this untouched corner of the world.

We lingered for a long while on the deck, breathing in the crisp mountain air and letting the peacefulness of the moment sink in. It’s no wonder this place has remained sacred to the local Tuvans for generations.

Standing there, high above the valley, I felt grateful that such a place - and such a people - still exist in today’s fast-changing world.

At the signboard - translated to English - "Tribe in the Clouds".

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That evening, we stayed in a hotel built in the midst of Hemu Village - Lanting Holiday Hotel.

Rear view of Lanting Holiday Hotel.