Sunday, June 15, 2025

Mati Temple, Zhangye

After our breakfast at Yun He Ye Bo Hotel on 26.05.2025 (Day 4), we set off for our next destination of the journey - the famed Mati Temple. By the time we arrived at the temple complex, it was already past 4.30pm. 

Mati Temple (马蹄寺), dramatically perched on the cliffs of Qilian Mountains, is an extraordinary Buddhist grotto complex located about 60Km to 80Km north of Zhangye, Gansu province. Also known as the "Horse-Hoof Temple", it derived its name from an ancient legend in which a celestial horse is said to have landed here, leaving behind an imprint of its hoof on the rock - a mark that remains visible today in the Mati Hall. 

The Temple's origins date back to the Northern Liang or Eastern Jin periods (5th to 6th century AD), and were progressively expanded under several dynasties including the Northern Wei, Sui, Tang, Western Xia, Yuan, Ming and Qing.

Today, the vast complex features more than 70 grottoes, housing over 500 statues and intricate wall murals covering an area of 1,200 sq. m. It holds a distinguished place among the Three Great Grottoes of Hexi Corridor alongside Dunhuang's Mogao, and Anxi's Yulin. 

Mati Temple offers visitors a rare and captivating blend of ancient Buddhist art, spectacular cliffside architecture, and vibrant local culture. From its dramatic cliff-hanging caves to its beautifully preserved sculptures and murals, this site remains one of the key attractions along the Silk Road journey.

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The presence of prayer wheels at Mati Temple complex clearly reflects the influence of Tibetan Buddhism, which continues to play a significant role in the site's religious practices today. However, Mati Temple remains a unique hybrid sanctuary, shaped by multipole Buddhist traditions - including Han Chinese Mahayana, Tibetan Vajrayana and the distinctive legacy of Western Xia dynasty. This blend of influences embodies the rich cultural diversity that once flourished along the Silk Road's Hexi Corridor.
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Jinta Temple also known as Golden Pagoda Temple is one of the most distinctive and remarkable sections of Mati Temple Grottoes complex. 

Jinta temple is dramatically carved into near-vertical cliff face, suspended approximately 60m above the ground, making it one of the most breathtaking grottoes in the entire complex. Its precarious position earned it the nickname "Golden Pagoda" because the temple  viewed from a distance, resembled a golden pagoda rising out of the rock face.

The complex here consists of a series of grottoes arranged on multiple levels, connected by narrow wooden walkways, ladders, and steps chiseled directly into rock.  
I managed to climb to reach the Jinta Temple.
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As we made our way down after exploring the Jinta Temple, we were surprised to spot a large rat-like creature foraging by the road side. With a search with the internet, we soon discovered that this is a Himalayan marmot - an animal considered rare to be sighted in this part of China. Yet, they may occasionally be found because the grottoes sit at the northern edge of the Qilian Mountains, which is part of the marmot's broader habitat. Qilian Mountains region provides suitable alpine meadows and grasslands where marmots can thrive.
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That evening, we checked into Kaoshan Tent, a unique lodging site near Zhangye, set against the majestic backdrop of Qilian Mountains. For the night, we stayed in a traditional-style yurt - an unusual alternative to conventional hotel - offering us our first real taste of nomadic life on the highland.

The yurt was equipped with modern comforts such as soft bedding, electric blankets and adequate lighting, making the stay cozy and warm despite the cold mountain air. However, the main drawback was the lack of an attached bathroom and toilet. The common bathrooms and toilets located at a fair distance from our unit, made venturing out for a shower at a cold night - an inconvenience that slightly tempered the novelty of the experience.

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