It took us just under an hour to travel from our hotel in Xian to the Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang - the highlight of our Day 2 itinerary on 24.05.2025.
I recall my high school Chinese lessons in the 1960s, long before the discovery of the Terracotta Army in 1974. Back then, Qin Shi Huang was portrayed more as a ruthless tyrant than a nation-building visionary. His image in the history books was that of a despot whose harsh rule, oppressive laws, and merciless control brought misery to the people. His rule was marked by brutal crackdowns on dissents, including the notorious "burning of books and burying of scholars" incidents, where countless Confucius texts were destroyed and many intellectuals executed or silenced. His strict policies suppressed free thought and education, fueling his reputation as a ruthless tyrant.
Yet, with the benefit of time and archaeological discoveries, a more balanced and nuanced picture has emerged. On one hand, he is rightly recognized as a visionary ruler who achieved the monumental feat of unifying the fractured warring states into single, centralized empire - laying the political and cultural foundation of what would become modern China today. His unification of laws, currency, weights and measures and even writing scripts greatly strengthened the nation's cohesion
His obsession with immortality and fear of death drove him to devote enormous resources towards building his grand mausoleum. Construction began in 246 BC and continued throughout his life until his death in 210 BC - a span of almost 40 years. More than 700,000 labourers were conscripted to work on this vast underground necropolis, a project of unprecedented scale and ambition.
It is believed that the mausoleum was designed not just as a burial site but also an eternal empire where the emperor could continue his rule in the afterlife, complete with palaces, rare treasures, rivers of mercury, and army of terracotta warriors to guard him for eternity.
It is believed that some artisans and officials involved in the planning and construction of the mausoleum may have been killed to keep this as a secret.
The Qin Dynasty lasted a mere 15 years (221BC to 206BC), making it one of the shortest-lived yet most consequential empire of Chinese history. Its dramatic downfall was largely the result of harsh authoritarian rule and unsustainable state ambitions. At the same time, colossal state projects such as the construction of the Great Wall and Mausoleum drained the nation's resources and exhausted its people. Eventually, the kingdom collapsed under a series of peasants uprisings.
*****************************************************
In 1974, the Terracotta Army was accidentally discovered by local farmers digging a well near Mount Li (Lishan) in Lintong District, Xian. At a depth of about 4m, they unearthed hard, reddish pottery fragments and bronze arrowheads - clues that led archaeologists to one of the greatest archaeological finds of the 20th century!
The entire mausoleum complex of the First Emperor, Qin Shi Huang covers an astonishing area of 56.25 Sq. Km. - vastly larger than the ancient walled city of Xian which measures only about 14 Sq. Km.
The burial mound also referred to as the tomb pyramid, originally stood at an estimated height of 115m, but centuries of erosions have reduced it to around 76m today. Its base measures 350m by 345m. The famous Terracotta Pits are located 1.5Km to the east of the main tomb mound.
To this day, the actual burial chamber of Qin Shi Huang remains unexcavated due to formidable technical and environmental challenges. Ancient texts, particularly from the historian Sima Qian, describe the tomb as a vast subterranean palace complete with miniature landscape and flowing rivers of liquid mercury, designed to represent the emperor's empire in the afterlife. Modern scientific surveys have detected unusually high concentrations of mercury in the surrounding soil, lending credence to these accounts.
Moreover, the tomb is thought to be protected by elaborate booby traps intended to thwart tomb robbers - an additional risk factor for any excavation effort. Without advance preservation techniques, disturbing the tomb could expose priceless relics to rapid deterioration upon contact with air, while also potentially releasing toxic mercury vapor hazardous to both archaeologists and the environment.
Just before we began exploring the Terracotta Army Pits, we had the rare opportunity to meet Mr. Yang Zhifa, the farmer who accidentally discovered this world-famous archeological site. Visitors who purchased the souvenir books from the shop were given the privilege of receiving his personal autograph.
****************************************************
The crowd was overwhelming that morning. Still, we were fortunate to view all three exhibition pits.
We began with Pit 1 - the Main Army Formation, the largest and the most impressive of the excavated areas. This vast covered hall stretches approximately 230m in length and 62m in width, resembling the size of an airplane hanger. Over 6,000 life-sized terracotta solders and horses have been unearthed, but only around 2,000 are currently on display.
At the front rows stand the infantry warriors - foot solders arranged in tight battle formation, facing east as if ready to engage an approaching enemy. Positioned behind them are the remnants of wooden war chariots (the wood has long since decayed, but their outlines and metal fittings remain), each once drawn by a team of terracotta horses.
What makes this spectacle truly remarkable is that no two soldiers are alike. Each figure bears distinctive facial expressions, hairstyles, and armor designs, reflecting the diverse ranks, roles, and possibly even the ethnic backgrounds of Qin Shi Huang’s imperial army. The craftsmanship gives every warrior an individualized presence, lending life and personality to this silent army frozen in time.
Rows of infantry warriors arranged in battle formation - archers, spearmen and foot solders - facing east, the direction of potential threats.
 |
A small sign shows the location of the well dug by
the local farmers in 1974. |
***************************************************
Pit 2 was noticeably dimmer than the other exhibition areas, a deliberate measure to prevent over-exposure and potential damage to fragile artifacts on display. The pit showcased a diverse array of military units, including standing and kneeling archers, war chariots, cavalrymen, and infantry formations - reflecting the mixed forces of a complete ancient army. One of the highlights here was the display of the exquisitely preserved bronze chariots, regarded as among the finest example of ancient Chinese metallurgical craftsmanship. These chariots, intricately detailed and remarkably intact, offered a rare glimpse into the advance technology and artistry of Qin Dynasty.
Pit 3 is the command center with high-ranking officers.
****************************************************
My deepest appreciation after this visit goes to the remarkable skill, patience and the endurance of the countless conscripted labourers and craftsmen who toiled tirelessly for years - if not decades - to create these extraordinary terracotta figures.
It is said that even during that ancient era, the Chinese employed an early form of assembly-line production to achieve this monumental task. Clay was sourced from the nearby Mount Li, carefully selected for its quality and workability. The solders' bodies were crafted in standardized sections - legs, torso, arms, heads - which allowed for efficient mass production. While molds were used to form the basic shapes of the heads, the finer details, especially the facial features, were meticulously hand-carved by artisans, ensuring every warrior bore a distinct and individual expression.
After assembly, the figures were fired in giant kilns to harden the clay. Once cooled, they were painted with vibrant mineral pigments in shades of red, blue, green and gold, bringing each warrior to life with startling realism. Sadly, the passage of time, exposure to air, and burial conditions caused most of this original paint to flake away, leaving behind the bare but still awe-inspiring terracotta forms we see today.
****************************************************
The great irony lies in the fact that this vast man-made army of clay figures - commissioned by an autocratic ruler over two thousand years ago, at the cost of immense human suffering - has now been transformed into one of the world's most celebrated archaeological wonders. Once intended to serve a tyrant in the afterlife, the Terracotta Army today draws millions of visitors from around the globe, generating immense cultural prestige and substantial tourism revenue for modern China.
*****************************************************
Today in China, Qin Shi Huang is very much respected as a prominent historical figure. At the back of Grand Dynasty Culture Hotel where we stayed, we saw this large stone relief figures - Qin Shi Huang at the center, General Meng Tian at right and Prime Minister Li Si at left.
General Meng Tian was a prominent general, credited with leading the construction of the Great Wall and defending the northern frontier. Li Si, the Prime Minister was the chief advisor and architect of many legal and political reforms that unified the empire.
No comments:
Post a Comment