After our morning visit to Tuyoq, we proceeded to another ancient site - Jiaohe, located about 10km west of Turpan. This archaeological wonder is often described as a 'cave-like city' because of its distinctive construction, where buildings were carved directly into the earth rather than built above ground.
Founded around the 2nd century BC during the Han Dynasty, Jiaohe (交河故城) once served as the capital of the ancient Gushi (or Jushi) Kingdom, a key state along the Silk Road. Uniquely, the city was carved directly into a narrow islet flanked by two deep river valleys, creating a naturally fortified settlement. Unlike most ancient cities, Jiaohe required no defensive walls - the steep cliffs surrounding it provided ample protection from invaders. The name "Jiaohe" literally means "where two rivers meet", referring to the rivers that shaped and protected this unique city.
Jiaohe is recognized as the largest, oldest, and best-preserved earthen city in the world. Its remarkably intact ruins reveal an entire cityscape sculpted from loess earth, including streets, residential houses, Buddhist stupas, temples, and workshops. Buddhism once thrived here, and the remains of several monasteries and stupas are still clearly visible today.
The city met its downfall in the 13th century when it was destroyed during the westward expansion of the Mongol Empire. After the devastation, Jiaohe was abandoned and left in ruins. Fortunately, the arid desert climate of the region helped preserve the site exceptionally well, allowing visitors to glimpse its ancient grandeur even today.
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Gazing at the barren, sun-scorched land of Jiaohe today, one can’t help but wonder how people in ancient times managed to survive in such a hostile, arid, and seemingly lifeless environment.
Yet, during its heyday - from the 2nd century BC to the 14th century AD - Jiaohe was surprisingly well-sustained. Despite the region’s extremely scarce rainfall, nearby rivers fed by snowmelt from the distant Tianshan Mountains provided a vital water source for drinking and irrigation. These rivers were the very lifeblood of the settlement.
More importantly, the ingenious Karez underground irrigation system - mentioned in an earlier blog post (Read here) - made agriculture possible. This ancient engineering marvel transported water beneath the desert floor, preventing evaporation and transforming barren soil into fertile fields where wheat, barley, melons, and grapes could thrive.
In addition to farming, the inhabitants raised goats, sheep, and likely camels, which supplied milk, meat, wool, and essential transport - crucial for a city situated along the Silk Road trade network.
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As we continued uphill through Jiaohe, we were led down a staircase into a walled, sunken chamber. Our guide explained that this was once a military post or garrison used by soldiers stationed in the ancient city.
These sunken rooms provided shade and concealment for guards tasked with monitoring the city’s entrances and other strategic points. Naturally cool and protected underground, the chamber also served as a storage space for weapons such as bows, arrows, spears, and swords.
In addition to its defensive functions, the space likely doubled as sleeping or resting quarters for soldiers on duty. Given Turpan’s extreme desert heat, these underground chambers offered a far more comfortable environment compared to above-ground barracks.
During times of siege or attack, soldiers could retreat into these fortified spaces to regroup, defend, or prepare for counteroffensives. The thick earthen walls and narrow entrances made the chamber highly resistant to enemy assault, adding another layer of protection to Jiaohe’s impressive defenses.
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Moving along, we were shown a series of dug cavities or small pit-like holes in the ground, which our guide speculated might have been burial sites for infants or young children. There is even a theory suggesting that child sacrifice may have been practiced here - possibly as a ritual to appease deities during times of drought or hardship in this harsh, arid region.
However, archaeologists and scholars have largely refuted these claims, citing a lack of conclusive evidence to support the idea of ritual sacrifice. Typically, to confirm such practices, researchers look for indicators such as cut marks on bones, associated ceremonial artifacts, or remnants of sacrificial altars - none of which have been definitively discovered at Jiaohe.
It is more widely accepted that these pits likely served as informal burial sites for infants who died of natural causes. In ancient times, infant mortality was high due to disease, malnutrition, and the lack of medical care.
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The scorching heat proved overwhelming, quickly draining our energy and dampening any desire to explore further. We decided to cut short our walk and make our way back to the comfort of the air-conditioned bus.
We departed immediately along highway G30, traversing the arid expanse of Gobi Desert on our westward journey to Urumqi, approximately 190Km away. By the time we arrived in Urumqui, it's just before 8.00pm. We then checked into our accommodation of the night, the Hoi Tak Hotel.
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