Dunhuang Night Market

For once, we were pleasantly surprised to be able to check into our hotel in Dunhuang earlier than expected, as it was conveniently located just a short 20-minute drive from Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Spring Scenic Area. Our accommodation, the Tianrun Yibi Hotel sits in the heart of Dunhuang city, making it ideal for exploring the city's attractions. Another bonus was its proximity to the bustling Dunhuang Night Market (敦煌夜市) also known as Shazhou Night Market (沙州夜市), which was just 500m away - a comfortable walking distance from our hotel.

As we wandered through the lively night market in search of dinner, we were greeted by the typical aroma of northwestern Chinese delicacies offered at countless food stalls. They included braised or grilled lamb skewers (羊肉串), camel meat burgers (驼肉堡), braised or fried crucian carp (红烧/炸鲫鱼), hand-pulled noodles (拉面), Dunhuang Yellow Noodles (黄面), stuffed buns (包子) and a variety of freshly-made dumplings.

Beyond food, the market also showcased an array of Silk Road-inspired handicrafts and souvenirs. Stalls displayed silk scarves, embroidered fabrics, sand paintings and miniature replicas of Mogao Caves murals, camel figurines, jade jewelry, carved stone ornaments and finely crafted silver accessories - all capturing the cultural heritage of Dunhuang and the ancient Silk Road.

Dried fruits and nuts including apricots, raisins and pistachios - all grown in the fertile oasis area near Dunhuang.

Long queue at one of the food stalls!

In the end, we decided to have braised carp for our dinner - a popular dish among diners at the market.

Singing Sand Dunes of Mingsha Mountain

Mingsha Mountain (鸣沙山), also known as the "Singing Sand Dunes," holds both geographical and historical significance along the ancient Silk Road. The dunes derived its poetic name from the natural phenomenon of emitting a low, resonant humming or drumming sound when the sand shift underfoot or when the wind blows - a mysterious and captivating marvel that has fascinated travelers for centuries. In ancient times, such unexplained sound contributed to the region's mystic aura and were frequently mentioned in the travel journals and folklore of Silk Road merchants and explorers.

Situated near Dunhuang - a vital oasis town on the Hexi Corridor (the western stretch of the Yellow River) - Mingsha Mountain marked a vital point along the main artery of the Silk Road in northwestern China. Dunhuang served as a crucial stop for traders, pilgrims, and adventurers alike, offering a place to rest, to replenish supplies, and prepare for the perilous desert crossings ahead, whether toward Central Asia or back to the Chinese heartland.

Adjacent to these haunting dunes lies Crescent Lake (月牙泉 or Yueyaquan), a natural spring-fed oasis that has miraculously endured the encroaching sands for thousands of years. The shimmering crescent-shaped lake was more than just a scenic wonder - it was a life-sustaining source of fresh water for weary caravans navigating the unforgiving Gobi and Taklamakan Deserts. Without this oasis, these desert journeys would have been fraught with even greater danger.

Adding to the cultural and spiritual significance of the area is its proximity to the Mogao Caves, one of the most celebrated and richly adorned Buddhist cave complexes along the Silk Road. Mingsha Mountain, Crescent Lake and Magao Caves together formed an extraordinary confluence of nature, commerce and faith. Traders, Buddhist pilgrims and wanderers traveling this route often paused here - not merely for physical sustenance but also for spiritual reflection - making this region a crossroads of civilization and a witness to the enduring legacy of the Silk Road.

Group photo taken at the entrance to Mingsha Mountain
and Crescent Lake Resort.

I was greatly amazed at the sheer number of visitors who flocked here to climb the towering sand dunes and try their hand at sandboarding. The lively scenes instantly reminded me of my own experience at the sand dunes at Lancelin in Western Australia, where we spent an exhilarating day sandboarding down the soft, sweeping slopes (Read here). Another striking difference was that at Lancelin, we practically had the entire stretch of the sand dunes to ourselves, while at Mingsha Mountain, we had to share the experience with throngs of visitors!

The crowd who joined in the camel rides was just as huge! Long lines of tourists on camels stretches across the sand, looking like a modern-day Silk Road caravan.

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The Crescent Lake

Group photo next to Crescent Lake.

I was surprised to find two pavilions built beside the Crescent Lake amidst this vast expanse of sand dunes. These elegant structures, with their graceful upturned eaves and multi-layered roofs, reflect classic pagoda-style architecture. From the upper floors, visitors can enjoy sweeping views of the Crescent Lake and the surrounding desert landscape.

Jiayuguan - Once the Westernmost Fortress of China

I still remember from my Chinese history lessons in high school that the China Great Wall once spanned from Shanhai Pass or Shanhaiguan (山海关) in the east to Jaiyu Pass or Jiayuguan (嘉峪关) in the west - covering a distance of approximately 5,000Km. These names stirred the imagination but remained distant and unreachable.

That changed on the afternoon of 27.05.2025 (Day 5), when we finally stood at the Youji Jiangjun Fu ( 嘉峪关游击将军府) or the Guerrilla General Residence at Jiayuguan, the westernmost stronghold of the Great Wall of China during the Ming Dynasty. This imposing military fortress once guarded the gateway to the west, uncertain land beyond. It was here that merchants, envoys, solders, and adventurers passed before embarking westward along the Silk Road - through the arid Hexi Corridor toward Dunhuang, Central Asia and the lands even farther beyond. Historically, Jiayuguan earned the grand title "The First and Greatest Pass under Heaven" (天下第一雄关), a name reflecting its strategic importance as the final bastion of imperial China. Beyond its walls lay the realm of nomads, traders and foreign powers - the unknown and the uncontrollable.

Google may showing the Guerilla General Residence at Jiayuguan.

In those same history classes, we also learned that Jiayuguan served a grim purpose in imperial time: it was the destination of exile for disgraced officials, scholars, and convicted criminals. To be sent to Jiayuguan was not merely a geographic displacement but a symbolic expulsion from the heart of Chinese civilization - far removed from the grandeur of Beijing or Xian, the cultural and political centers of the empire. This punishment carried both humiliation and hardship, as life on the empire's western frontier was harsh, desolate and perilous.

Perched on the edge of the unforgiving Gobi Desert, Jiayuguan stood guard over the treacherous route into Central Asia - a corridor marked by extreme climate, isolation, and constant threat of danger. Compared to the fertile and prosperous heartlands of eastern China, this frontier was a place of struggle and survival.

According to legend, when an imperial decree sentenced someone to exile in the west, it would ominously declared: "Beyond Jiayuguan, you are no longer under the protection of the empire". With these words,  the condemned were severed - both in body and in spirit - from the safety, order, and civilization of China, left to face the uncertainty of the wild lands beyond.

Left: Exterior of Main Entrance. Right: Inner face of the Main Entrance.

The inner sanctuary of the fortress, is surrounded by thick walls  with watchtowers at each corner.

Inside the fortress, we came across the reconstructed General's Residence - the official dwelling and administrative office of the fortress commander.

Study Hall - used for studying maps, reading military texts, and drafting reports to the imperial court.

Martial Hall - Likely used to store weapons, camel saddles, long range bows and early gunpowder weapons.

Rear Hall/Private Quarters - Living and private space for the Commander's family.

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Canon on display top of the wall.

Gobi desert in the west viewed from the top of the Wall.

We were allowed to exit the rear entrance and step onto the Gobi desert. For the more adventurous, camel rides were available for rent.

A station recreated to resemble the historical immigration checkpoint that marked the passage through Jiayuguan in ancient times, offering a glimpse into the procedures faced by travelers and officials at the empire’s western frontier.

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From the fortress, we traveled 8Km north to visit the Overhanging Great Wall. This section was strategically built to strengthen the defense of the pass and regulate movement along the vital Hexi Corridor. Extending from the main fortress, these walls stretch deep into the surrounding desert and mountains, creating an imposing and continuous barrier against intruders.

From a distance, we caught glimpses of the Overhanging Great Wall, perched on the slope of the Black Mountain. This section of the wall stretches 434m in length and ascends at a steep 45-degree angle, earning it the nicknamed the "Hanging Wall" for its sheer, cliffside construction. Built from rammed earth and loess, the structure is further reinforced with tamarisk branches, showcasing the ingenuity of ancient defensive engineering.

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After exploring this historic western fortress of China, we headed to our accommodation for the night, Yiyi Time Hotel also known as Kun Yi Time Hotel located on South Wuyi Road in Jiayuguan City.