Choked in Smoke

Once again, Malaysia finds itself shrouded in a blanket of smoke-filled air. What was once considered an occasional environmental crisis has now become an almost “annual affair,” much to the frustration of Indonesia’s neighbours. The issue, first brought to international attention by Friends of the Earth as far back as 1997, continues to show little sign of resolution.

The recurring haze has long strained diplomatic relations, particularly between Indonesia and Singapore. On 21 June 2013, Singapore recorded a Pollutant Standards Index (PSI) of 401 - well beyond hazardous levels - prompting the government and its people to openly accuse Indonesia of failing to take sufficient action. Indonesia, however, countered that the problem could not be pinned solely on its citizens. Many of the plantation companies responsible for large-scale open burning, they argued, are owned by Singapore and Malaysian interests.

The way forward must involve more than finger-pointing. A solution requires strong political will and genuine enforcement. Severe penalties should be imposed on any company - local or foreign - found guilty of open burning. A fine in the range of RM10 million or more per offence, an amount substantial enough to truly hurt, could serve as an effective deterrent. Yet, the bigger challenge remains: can such laws be fairly implemented and consistently enforced in Indonesia, where vested interests and weak governance often stand in the way of meaningful change?

The sky at my house on 21.6. 2013. Air Pollutant Index reported to be 79.

The sky at my house on 22.6.2013. Patches of clouds are now visible.

Professionals are Leaving for Singapore

Yesterday, I had a conversation with another engineer who has decided to resign after more than four years in our office. When I pressed further, he confided that he and his architect girlfriend (with Innotech) are planning to move to Singapore to pursue better opportunities.

It is becoming increasingly clear that many young professionals are discontented with the pay situation in Sabah. Sadly, professional salaries here remain noticeably lower than those offered in West Malaysia and Singapore. I cannot fully explain why this disparity persists. Some argue that it is due to Sabah’s smaller market, where the volume and value of professional services generated from local projects are simply insufficient to sustain competitive wages in the long run. Others suggest that employers may be reluctant to allocate a larger share of their earnings toward staff remuneration, preferring instead to retain the greater portion for themselves.

This is not a trivial matter. It is a critical issue that needs to be addressed if local professional practices are to remain viable in the long term. The current trend is troubling: many engineers, after only a few years of experience in Sabah, eventually leave for Singapore, where their skills are valued more highly. The result is predictable - the beneficiary is Singapore, while the loser is Sabah.

We are then left in a perpetual cycle of training fresh graduates, only to see them move on once they become experienced enough. It is both frustrating and unsustainable.

As for me, perhaps fortunately - or unfortunately - I am nearing the end of my journey in full-time professional practice. But the questions remain: unless this issue is addressed seriously, how can we expect the next generation of professionals to stay and build their future here?

Unique Things About Black People

A few things we were told by our local tour guide Linda Leung about the black people:

They have skin that secretes more oil and hence suffer less on dryness of skin. She asked us to touch the skin of black people to ascertain this. We did and it appears to be true.

They have better eye sight. Hence, we do not find a lot of black people wearing glasses.

They are good runners: Their ancestors have spent the whole life chasing antelopes, gazelles! Hence, many fast Olympics runners are black.

However, their bones are comparatively heavier. Hence, they are not great swimmers! So far, no good Olympics swimmers are black.

World Cup 2010 Stadium, Johannesburg

The final of the FIFA 2010 World Cup between Spain and Netherlands was played in Soccer City Stadium (also known as FNB Stadium) in Johannesburg, South Africa on 11 July 2010. Spain defeated Netherlands at 1-0 during extra time. South Africa, the host nation was eliminated during the first round.

Soccer City Stadium has a capacity of 84,490 and built at a cost USD $440 million.

Courtesy from Internet.

Stadium at night, unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to see it lighted up like this.

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A total of 10 stadiums across South Africa were used to host the 2010 FIFA World Cup. During my trip, I also caught a glimpse of another remarkable venue in Cape Town as our tour bus passed by it. This striking, bowl-shaped arena, known as the Cape Town Stadium, was constructed at a cost of around USD $600 million. Designed with a modern, cup-like form, it became one of the iconic symbols of the tournament. The stadium hosted several memorable World Cup matches, including the semifinal clash between the Netherlands and Uruguay.

The 64,100-capacity Cape Town Stadium.

Life as a South African

According to our local tour guide, Linda Leung, South Africa has a population of about 52 million people. Of this, approximately 78% are black Africans and 12% are white. While the official unemployment rate is quoted at just over 20%, Linda suggested that the actual figure is much higher, closer to 43%.

The effects of poverty are evident as one travels across the country. Along the highways, and especially at busy traffic junctions, many black South Africans can be seen trying to make a living by selling various items. Most of these are handmade crafts - beaded ornaments, woven baskets, or small carved wooden figures - each reflecting the rich cultural traditions of the region. Others take on more unconventional roles, acting as walking advertisements by promoting products or holding placards to publicize upcoming events.

The making and marketing of handicrafts is a significant industry in South Africa, providing both livelihood and cultural expression. South Africans, particularly within black communities, are renowned for their creativity and artistic talent.

Many black South Africans have undoubtedly benefited under the leadership of Nelson Mandela and the subsequent black-led governments. One of the most visible achievements has been the construction of thousands of houses, many of which were provided free of charge to black families who had previously lived in poverty or informal settlements.

Ironically, Malaysia’s New Economic Policy (NEP) was adapted in South Africa in the form of the Black Economic Empowerment (BEE) program. Under this policy, companies are required to employ a certain quota of black workers, and at least 25% of a firm’s shares must be reserved for black ownership. While the intent is noble - helping historically disadvantaged communities gain access to wealth and opportunity - such measures raise important questions about long-term sustainability. Policies that redistribute wealth without equally emphasizing merit, productivity, and innovation risk creating dependency rather than empowerment. If continued indefinitely without a clear sunset clause, such initiatives could inadvertently weaken the very communities they are meant to uplift, fostering reliance on state intervention rather than self-sufficiency.

Zimbabwe offers a sobering example. Once a prosperous nation, it collapsed under poorly managed redistribution policies. Today, its currency is virtually worthless - at one point, a staggering 10,000 Zimbabwean dollars could not even buy a loaf of bread. In such cases, while the policies were designed to address inequality, the ultimate victims are often the very people they sought to help.

Comically, in such an economy, one could easily become a “trillionaire,” yet still struggle to afford the basics of daily life.

Voortrekker Memorial, Pretoria

The Voortrekker Monument, built between 1937 and 1949, was erected to commemorate the Great Trek - the migration of Afrikaner pioneers (Voortrekkers) who left the Cape Colony between 1835 and 1854 to settle in the interior regions, including what is now Pretoria. The monument stands strategically on a hill, overlooking the city, symbolizing both remembrance and resilience.

Inside the memorial, our tour guide walked us through the story told by the impressive marble friezes - 72 panels of intricately carved human figures - that depict key moments in the Voortrekkers’ journey.

After the Voortrekkers settled near present-day Pretoria, clashes with the Zulu kingdom became frequent. Seeking to resolve the conflict, the idea of a ceasefire was raised. King Dingane of the Zulu invited Voortrekker leaders under the pretense of peace negotiations. Trusting in the king’s word, Piet Retief, Piet Uys, and about 70 men - including boys - together with 30 servants, entered Zulu territory unarmed. That night, they were betrayed and massacred on Dingane’s orders.

The betrayal enraged the Voortrekkers, who considered it a dishonourable act that demanded justice. They vowed to avenge their fallen comrades.

On 16 December 1838, Andries Pretorius led a commando force of 470 men with 64 wagons into Dingane’s territory. At the Battle of Blood River, they faced an overwhelming Zulu army estimated at 10,000-15,000 strong. Using their wagons as a fortified laager, the Voortrekkers repelled repeated assaults. When the battle ended, some 3,000 Zulu warriors lay dead, while astonishingly, the Boers suffered no casualties.

After this decisive victory, Pretorius secured an alliance with Dingane’s brother, Mpande, which forced Dingane and his supporters into exile. The Voortrekkers interpreted their survival and triumph as a miracle granted by God. In gratitude, they swore a solemn vow that they and their descendants would dedicate the day to God as a day of rest and remembrance.

The commemoration became known as Dingane’s Day, later renamed the Day of the Vow and then the Day of the Covenant, officially recognized as a national public holiday. After the end of apartheid in 1994, the new South African government retained the date as a symbol of unity but renamed it the Day of Reconciliation, a holiday now shared by all South Africans.

The nearby city of Pretoria was named in honour of Andries Pretorius, the Voortrekker leader who secured the historic victory.

According to our guide, every year on 16 December, many Afrikaners (Boers) still gather at the Voortrekker Monument, spending the entire day in prayer and remembrance, keeping alive the vow made by their ancestors.

At exactly 12:00 noon on 16 December each year, a single beam of sunlight passes through a precisely engineered opening in the roof of the Voortrekker Monument and illuminates the cenotaph stone on the ground floor. This remarkable alignment is not only a feat of engineering and astronomy but also carries deep symbolic meaning: the light is said to represent God’s blessing shining down on the Voortrekkers’ vow and sacrifice.

The balcony at the roof has a good view of Pretoria.

After the dismantling of apartheid, political power in South Africa shifted from the white minority to the black majority. The Voortrekker Monument, which could easily have been regarded as controversial - or even offensive to the Zulu people - was nevertheless preserved. Instead of being demolished, it has been reinterpreted as a symbol of reconciliation, acknowledging a painful past while still honouring the cultural memory of the Afrikaners.

Today, the monument also serves as an important heritage attraction and a significant source of foreign exchange for South Africa’s tourism industry. Its removal would not only erase a vital chapter of history but also deprive the nation of an iconic landmark that continues to draw visitors from around the world.

In this regard, Malaysia - where parts of national history have sometimes been reshaped to suit the narrative of a dominant racial group - could learn much from South Africa’s example. The preservation of the Voortrekker Monument shows that even difficult or contested histories can be retained honestly, used for education, and transformed into opportunities for unity rather than division.

Look Alike in Johannesburg, South Africa

During the train ride at Gold Reef City Amusement Park in Johannesburg, I noticed a little girl among a group of students from Limpopo, in the northeast of South Africa. She bore such a striking resemblance to Keshia Knight Pulliam - best known as Rudy Huxtable, the youngest daughter in The Cosby Show - that it felt like I had stepped into a scene from television.

While dining at the Lesedi Cultural Village, north of Johannesburg, I mentioned to the man manning the food counter that he strongly resembled the famous boxer Mike Tyson. Without hesitation, he raised his fists in a playful boxing stance, a gesture that made it clear I was not the first to make the comparison. His reaction, paired with his broad smile, added a moment of lighthearted connection that made the visit even more memorable.

Lesedi African Lodge & Cultural Village

Lesedi African Lodge & Cultural Village was established with tourism and commercial interests in mind, yet it remains one of the most accessible and engaging places to gain a quick introduction to the rich cultures of South Africa’s black communities. In just a few hours, visitors can immerse themselves in traditional homesteads, music, dance, and food, offering a snapshot of heritage that would otherwise take much longer to experience firsthand (Read here).

South Africa is home to many diverse ethnic groups, but among the most prominent are four major tribes: the Zulu, Basotho, Xhosa, and Pedi. Each has its own distinct language, traditions, and cultural expressions, all of which are represented at Lesedi, making it a vibrant window into the country’s multicultural identity.

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The Zulu people is the largest tribe in South Africa.

Zulu man can have many wives. While each of his wives and her children stay in separate hut, one hut is designated as common kitchen. They all cook and eat together in the common kitchen

A Zulu girl.

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The Basotho men are often recognized by their distinctive conical hat, known as the mokorotlo. At first glance, this traditional hat resembles headgear worn by the DusunKadazan women in Sabah, though our local tour guide shared a different interpretation. She explained that some believe the design bears similarities to the Mongolian hat, fueling theories that Chinese explorers during the Ming Dynasty may have reached the African continent long before European contact. While such claims remain debated, the mokorotlo undeniably stands today as a proud national symbol of the Basotho people.

The Basotho primarily reside in Lesotho, a small, landlocked mountain kingdom entirely surrounded by South Africa. According to our guide, the country faces significant socio-economic challenges, with poverty widespread and about one in four people living with HIV/AIDS. Many Basotho seek employment in larger South African cities such as Johannesburg and Cape Town, working as migrant laborers to support their families back home. Despite these hardships, their resilience and rich cultural heritage continue to define the nation’s identity.

The common cooking area is built in open space. Cooking range has four sides. Cooking would be done on the side unaffected by wind. A clever idea!

Basotho Hat

Mongolian Hat

KadazanDusun Hat

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The most well known Xhosa: Nelson Mandela.

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Living quarters of the Pedi people.