Red Square, Moscow

After leaving the Izmailovo Kremlin, we made our way on foot toward Red Square. Known as the beating heart of Moscow, Red Square is one of Russia’s most iconic landmarks. Surrounded by monumental architecture that embodies centuries of political, cultural, and spiritual history, it stands today as both a powerful national symbol and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Just before stepping into Red Square, we passed the State Historical Museum - a magnificent red-brick building designed in the Russian Revival style. Our guide mentioned that it houses an extensive collection of artifacts, tracing Russia’s history from prehistoric times to the present day. Unfortunately, a visit to the museum was not included in our itinerary, nor did we have the time to embark on such an in-depth tour.

State Historical Museum.

Entrance we used to step into the Red Square.

Km 0 Point in Moscow.

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As we walked through Red Square, we passed by Lenin’s Mausoleum on our right. Inside lies the embalmed body of Vladimir Lenin, the revolutionary leader and founder of the Soviet Union. Today, the small trickle of visitors seems to reflect his waning popularity, especially since the USSR dissolved in 1991. Modern Russia, established after the Soviet collapse, tends to trace its statehood and identity more to earlier periods of Russian history - particularly the Tsarist era and transformative rulers such as Peter the Great. This shift in perspective was echoed in the insights shared by our local tour guide.

Lenin's Mausoleum.

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Across Red Square, directly opposite Lenin’s Mausoleum, stands the massive GUM Department Store - a grand 19th-century glass-roofed shopping arcade and another Moscow’s iconic landmarks. After our visit to St. Basil’s Cathedral, this was where all the tour members enjoyed their free time, exploring the elegant halls, boutique shops, and cafes. It also became the perfect spot for lunch.

For a change of flavor, we opted to try Japanese ramen prepared in a distinctly Russian style. To our surprise, it tasted remarkably authentic, offering a delightful fusion of East Asian comfort food with a local twist.

GUM Departmental Store.

One of the entrances to GUM Departmental Store.

As we exited from GUM Departmental Store, a pleasant alleyway stretches ahead, guiding the way toward the Lubyanka Building, which stands prominently across the road at its far end.

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The Lubyanka Building, once the Hqqs of KGB.

Aerial view of Lubyanka Building. Courtesy from Internet.

Just before heading to the GUM Department Store, our local tour guide pointed out another landmark - iconic to some, though infamous to others: the Lubyanka Building. Once the headquarters of the KGB, it was here that Russia’s current president, Vladimir Putin, once served as an officer. With that knowledge in mind, and after finishing our lunch at GUM, we made our way down an alleyway to its end for a closer look.

Today, the Lubyanka houses the Federal Security Service (FSB), the successor to the KGB. Situated close to the Kremlin and Red Square, the building serves as a stark reminder of the central role intelligence and security have long played in Russian political life.

Constructed in the late 19th century, the building was taken over by the Bolsheviks in 1918 to serve as the headquarters of the Cheka, the first Soviet secret police. Over time, it was expanded and adapted to accommodate successive security agencies, eventually becoming synonymous with the KGB during the Soviet era.

Vladimir Putin’s career is closely linked to this institution. Before becoming president, he served as a KGB officer specializing in foreign intelligence, much of it carried out abroad, particularly in East Germany. Yet the Lubyanka remained the symbolic heart of the organization he represented. His KGB background has left a lasting imprint on his leadership style, most evident in his emphasis on secrecy, control, and the primacy of state security.