The Delusion of Little Hong Kong ?

Sandakan is one of the towns I seldom visit, perhaps because I have hardly had any projects there. So, when my lady engineer invited us to attend her pre-wedding banquet in Sandakan, we decided to take the opportunity to make it a driving tour.

Over the years, Sandakan has made notable progress in terms of infrastructure. With the Chief Minister himself serving as the state assemblyman for Sungai Sibuga, an area just next to Sandakan, it is evident that he has invested significant effort in developing this region. His long-term vision is to transform Sandakan into the education hub of Sabah.

Yet, it was a little disheartening to see that Sandakan, once affectionately known as “Little Hong Kong,” is gradually losing that identity. The rapid influx of new communities of different ethnicities has changed the town’s character considerably. When we went in search of a traditional Chinese coffee shop for our afternoon tea, it proved to be quite a challenge. Eventually, we managed to find one tucked away in a row of old shophouses on the hillside - the original Sandakan town. To our surprise, all the shop assistants were non-Chinese, and even the owner appeared to be of mixed heritage. (Not meant as a complaint - just an observation of how much the town has changed.) Around the seafront area, almost all the shops are now run by non-Chinese. Taking a stroll there, one might almost feel transported to Kelantan or Terengganu!

Thankfully, our stay was made especially pleasant by checking into Sandakan’s latest landmark hotel - the Four Points by Sheraton. It was indeed a fine choice, offering both comfort and class. The view from the 24th floor was nothing short of spectacular, a perfect vantage point to take in the evolving face of Sandakan.

We also made time to explore some of Sandakan’s well-known tourist attractions. Our first stop was the famous Agnes Keith House, a beautifully restored colonial residence perched strategically on a hilltop with sweeping views over Sandakan town and the bay.

Agnes Keith, an American author who lived in Sabah with her husband during the 1930s and 40s, is remembered not only for her evocative writings but also for giving Sabah its enduring identity as the “Land Below the Wind” - a phrase she popularized in her book of the same title. Today, the house stands as a museum, offering visitors a glimpse into the life of colonial-era expatriates while also honoring the woman whose words helped put Sabah on the literary and cultural map.

Walking toward the Agnes Keith's old house

Agnes Keith's Old House.

View of Sandakan From Agnes Keith's Old House

Just next to Agnes Keith’s old house stands a former government quarters that has been converted into the English Tea House & Restaurant. True to its colonial setting, the restaurant exudes a nostalgic old-world charm and sweeping views of the Sandakan coastline. We couldn’t resist trying their classic English scones - and they did not disappoint. Freshly baked, warm, and served with cream and jam, they made for a delightful afternoon treat, perfectly complementing the serene ambiance.

We also visited the Sandakan War Memorial, a solemn site dedicated to the memory of the thousands of Allied prisoners of war, particularly Australians, who perished during the infamous Sandakan Death Marches in World War II. To this day, many Australians still return year after year to pay tribute to their fallen heroes, keeping alive the bond of remembrance across generations.

The memorial is not only a place of mourning but also a powerful reminder of the resilience of the human spirit and the heavy price of conflict. It deserves to be preserved in perpetuity - not only as a tribute to those who suffered and died here, but also as a lasting reminder of the atrocities of war and the importance of striving for peace.

On our way back to KK, we made a brief stop by the roadside to revisit a project we had once undertaken - the design and supervision of the remedial system for several collapsed slopes along the highway. Standing there after so many years, it was gratifying to see the system still holding up well, performing exactly as intended even after nearly eight years. There’s a quiet satisfaction in witnessing the lasting impact of one’s work, especially when it continues to serve the community safely and effectively.