Thursday, September 16, 2021

The Paradox of the Old City of Jerusalem

Richard the Lionheart once wrote to Saladin, "Jerusalem is for us an object of worship that we could not give up even if there were only one of us left." Saladin countered, "Jerusalem is ours as much as yours -  indeed it's even more sacred to us." Throughout history, many wars have been fought with the sole aim of taking ownership of Jerusalem.

To many Christians, Muslims and Jews, Jerusalem is a holy city. Yet inside this walled city, we could feel its "insanity" even within a short period of time. This is a city where three eras exist simultaneously - the old era, the middle ages and the new era. It's medieval and primitive in one corner and innovative entrepreneurs employing latest technology in another sector. People live side by side with some religious maniacs and they may occasionally be in collision course. One needs to have the skill and tenacity to survive in this kind of lunacy.


Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

As our tour bus drove pass this walled city just before we entered this old city, we marveled at the encircling wall which was built to defend and protect generations after generations of Jerusalemites. 

We finally entered the old city through the Lions' Gate, one of the eight gates which is reserved for the entry of tourists.  

Story has it that when the pioneer Franks crusaders first tried to enter the walled city in July 1099, they faced strong resistance and in response they held a procession around the walls just as Joshua did around Jericho multiple years ago. The army fasted three days and then led by priests and holding holy relics, they marched barefoot around the walls of Jerusalem, with trumpets, banners and arms. The Jerusalemites, subjects of the Muslim Fatimid Caliphate laughed and mocked at them from inside the city.  The city wall didn't fall after the encircling. The city was finally captured after a prolonged seven-week siege under intense attacks using ladders, siege-engines, mangonels, missiles, arrows and fascines.


Beside the Dome of the Rock, the twin Golden Gate facing Mount Olives is another landmark of this old city. Similar to many pilgrim sites, there are myths, incredible fables and tales associated with the sites. Golden Gate is no exception though it is not a pilgrim site per se. 

Some believe that in the Day of Judgment, Jesus the Messiah will enter Jerusalem through this gate. This gate was sealed and opened up multiple times. It was last sealed in its present form in 1541 by the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman. It was sealed for defensive reason. Another reason as many believed was to prevent the entry of the Jewish Messiah through this gate!

Outside the twin gate is a cemetery. Many believe that the dead in this cemetery will be the first to be resurrected when the Messiah enters Jerusalem though this gate in the Day of Judgment!

The Golden Gate.
David Tower or the Citadel of David, a magnificent old complex near the Jaffa Gate at the western side of Jerusalem. 

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