Tour of Pahang - Mentakab

Staying in Mentakab wasn’t part of our original plan. However, since we were unable to book any accommodation in Temerloh online, we opted for a night at EV World Hotel, a newly opened budget hotel in Mentakab. Fortunately, the two towns are only about 9.5 km apart, so traveling between them was no issue at all.

There isn't a great deal to say about Mentakab itself - it’s a quiet town with few attractions. The morning after our arrival, Mr. and Mrs. Lai (Junshi’s parents) graciously took us on a short guided tour in separate cars. One of the places they brought us to was the Mentakab railway station, hidden behind a small hill. The station, once bustling, now stood silent and nearly forgotten. Aside from us, there was only one solitary station staff member on duty, a quiet symbol of a bygone era.

They also brought us to the nearby Chinese New Village, adding a touch of local flavor to our brief stop in Mentakab.

Just below the hotel, on the ground floor, there was a large and bustling coffee shop - a perfect spot for a local breakfast. There, I had the unexpected pleasure of enjoying a bowl of Loh Mee. It had been ages since I last tasted this dish, and the first mouthful instantly brought back memories.

I was first introduced to Loh Mee back in 1974, during my university days. A friend of mine, Yue Chiang - who now lives in Perth - and I had hitchhiked from Kuala Lumpur to Kuantan, and it was there that I had my very first bowl.

Loh Mee is a hearty noodle dish served in a thick, starchy broth, subtly flavored with black vinegar. The consistency is almost gravy-like, and the tangy note from the vinegar gives it a unique and comforting taste. That simple bowl of noodles brought with it a wave of nostalgia from a long-ago journey.

During the Malayan Emergency, when the government was battling communist insurgents, the Chinese population in Mentakab - like many others across the country - was forcibly relocated into a secured and enclosed settlement. The entire area was fenced off to prevent any interaction or support between the local Chinese and the communist guerillas hiding in the jungles.

These fenced compounds were known as "Chinese New Villages". Rows upon rows of modest houses were built close together, separated only by narrow lanes, giving the village a tightly knit, communal feel.

After the Emergency was officially declared over, the fences were dismantled and the narrow lanes were tarred. Today, this once-restricted settlement has transformed into a place of cultural and historical interest, drawing visitors who are curious about its past and the resilience of the communities that once lived behind the wire.