Tour of Pahang - Sg. Lembing Old Mines

In Sunagi Lembing, practically everyone I spoke to in their 40s and 50s told me that at some point in their lives, they had worked in the underground mines of Sungai Lembing.

Since the mines opened in 1886, Sungai Lembing attracted wave after wave of Chinese migrants from southern China, all in search of a better future. My grandfather, born in 1882, was among them. He arrived as a young man, most likely in the early 1900s. Driven by the hardships back home, he left behind his young wife and children in China and journeyed thousands of miles to what was then known as a land of opportunity. Like many others, he likely intended to return home once he had saved enough money. However, for reasons unknown, he eventually left Sungai Lembing and moved to North Borneo. There, he married a local native woman, started a new family, and never returned to China.

At its peak, the Sungai Lembing underground mine was considered one of the largest and deepest tin mines in the world. Its tunnel network stretched an astonishing 322 km, reaching depths of up to 700 m - far deeper than the height of the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, which stand at 450 meters.

Mining operations at Sungai Lembing finally ceased in 1987, when the cost of extracting tin at such depths became no longer economically viable.

Today, the Pahang state government has taken over the site and transformed it into a heritage tourism destination. The tunnels that are now open to tourists are part of the original mining network, though they have been carefully refurbished to ensure visitor safety. Notable upgrades include concrete guniting along the tunnel walls and soil nailing to stabilize the structure and prevent potential collapses.

Brief history of the mine.

Left: School children learning geography and geology on site. Right: Entrance to the mines.

Inside one of the tunnels. Note the protruding soil nails

Some of the tunnels were fenced to prevent people from entering

**************************************************

Beside the old mining shafts, there are numerous other tunnels scattered throughout the area. Even the hotel where we stayed had a tunnel that was easily accessible. According to the hotel staff, people still venture into it in search of rare mineral stones to sell. 

Interestingly, through conversations with local residents, we learned that small-scale mining activities are still taking place today. These efforts are carried out by individuals hoping to earn a modest income from selling tin ore. It’s mostly done on an ad-hoc basis using simple hand tools. 

Some gold was also discovered among the tin deposits. Our guide shared a remarkable true story about a Bangladeshi worker who had been hired to help build a bridge. While digging to place wooden stakes into the ground, he struck some rocks. Curious, he dug further, working around the obstruction - and to his amazement, uncovered a rich vein of tin, within which was a large chunk of gold! The discovery created quite a buzz among the workers. The Bangladeshi, however, quietly resigned and promptly left Sungai Lembing.

***************************************************

Remnants of former mineral processing facilities still line the roadside, just a short walk from the town centre.

Tour of Pahang - Sungai Lembing

Another highlight of the tour was our visit to Sungai Lembing - a place that holds deep personal significance for me. Ever since I learned that my maternal grandfather first set foot in this very town when he left China for Southeast Asia, it had been a lifelong dream of mine to come here and see this place - and the mines - where he once toiled.

The moment I heard the locals conversing in Hakka, I felt a strong sense of connection. The dialect spoken here is virtually identical to the one spoken in Kota Kinabalu and across Sabah, reaffirming my belief that my grandfather had indeed lived and worked in this town.

During my stay, I made an effort to talk to some residents, hoping to meet people whose ancestors might have come from the same village as my grandfather. Unfortunately, the name of his hometown didn’t seem to resonate with the younger generation I spoke to. It made me wonder - could it be that his entire clan had migrated together to North Borneo, leaving behind few, if any, ties to the place they once called home?

Many generations have come and gone, but the towering old trees in the town centre still stand - silent sentinels bearing witness to the passage of time. They serve as living reminders of Sungai Lembing’s resilience and enduring spirit, quietly telling the story of a town that refuses to be forgotten.

This sleepy old town has seen little change over the years - and that’s unlikely to change anytime soon, especially now that its once-thriving mining industry is a thing of the past. Its future now rests in the hands of the remaining residents, whose creativity and determination will be key in reimagining Sungai Lembing as a destination for visitors seeking heritage, history, and a glimpse into a bygone era.

The huge Khek (Hakka) Association's building located strategically in the town centre speaks volume of the influence of the Hakka people here.

The hanging bridge across Sg. Lembing is now a symbol of this old town.

The river flowing through Sungai Lembing was calm and gentle during our visit, with its bed visibly silted up over time. However, we were told that during periods of heavy rain and flooding, the water level could rise dramatically - sometimes reaching as high as the suspension bridge. In such events, residents are typically given advance warning, allowing them time to evacuate and safeguard their belongings, including moving their vehicles to higher ground.

Steamers used to ply along this river during the good old days.

Tour of Pahang - Temerloh

One of the highlights of our Pahang tour was the opportunity to meet up with Mr. and Mrs. Lai - Junshi’s parents.

We had arranged in advance to have dinner together on the day we arrived in Mentakab. As we made our way from the hotel to their home in Temerloh, we were caught in a torrential downpour. Visibility was poor, and the road markings were barely discernible. Thankfully, my trusty Garmin GPS guided us faithfully through the rain, bringing us right to the doorstep of their home.

Of course, no visit to Temerloh would be complete without sampling its culinary pride - Patin fish. With the mighty Pahang River flowing through the town, it’s no surprise that this freshwater delicacy is a local staple.

The next morning, we reunited with the Lais for a hearty breakfast in Mentakab, followed by a casual tour of both Mentakab and Temerloh. Their warmth and hospitality were truly heartwarming.

In a final thoughtful gesture, they even accompanied us in their own cars all the way to the outskirts of Temerloh, ensuring we were safely on the right road toward our next destination - Sungai Lembing.

Mr. Lai said that it was his first time crossing the suspension bridge that spans across the mighty Sg. Pahang. I also managed to capture a photo of this lovely couple when I was following them from behind.

Tour of Pahang - Mentakab

Staying in Mentakab wasn’t part of our original plan. However, since we were unable to book any accommodation in Temerloh online, we opted for a night at EV World Hotel, a newly opened budget hotel in Mentakab. Fortunately, the two towns are only about 9.5 km apart, so traveling between them was no issue at all.

There isn't a great deal to say about Mentakab itself - it’s a quiet town with few attractions. The morning after our arrival, Mr. and Mrs. Lai (Junshi’s parents) graciously took us on a short guided tour in separate cars. One of the places they brought us to was the Mentakab railway station, hidden behind a small hill. The station, once bustling, now stood silent and nearly forgotten. Aside from us, there was only one solitary station staff member on duty, a quiet symbol of a bygone era.

They also brought us to the nearby Chinese New Village, adding a touch of local flavor to our brief stop in Mentakab.

Just below the hotel, on the ground floor, there was a large and bustling coffee shop - a perfect spot for a local breakfast. There, I had the unexpected pleasure of enjoying a bowl of Loh Mee. It had been ages since I last tasted this dish, and the first mouthful instantly brought back memories.

I was first introduced to Loh Mee back in 1974, during my university days. A friend of mine, Yue Chiang - who now lives in Perth - and I had hitchhiked from Kuala Lumpur to Kuantan, and it was there that I had my very first bowl.

Loh Mee is a hearty noodle dish served in a thick, starchy broth, subtly flavored with black vinegar. The consistency is almost gravy-like, and the tangy note from the vinegar gives it a unique and comforting taste. That simple bowl of noodles brought with it a wave of nostalgia from a long-ago journey.

During the Malayan Emergency, when the government was battling communist insurgents, the Chinese population in Mentakab - like many others across the country - was forcibly relocated into a secured and enclosed settlement. The entire area was fenced off to prevent any interaction or support between the local Chinese and the communist guerillas hiding in the jungles.

These fenced compounds were known as "Chinese New Villages". Rows upon rows of modest houses were built close together, separated only by narrow lanes, giving the village a tightly knit, communal feel.

After the Emergency was officially declared over, the fences were dismantled and the narrow lanes were tarred. Today, this once-restricted settlement has transformed into a place of cultural and historical interest, drawing visitors who are curious about its past and the resilience of the communities that once lived behind the wire.

Tour of Pahang - Mossy Forest

After visiting the BOH Tea Plantation, our car took a right turn just beyond the estate and began the ascent up a fairly steep hill toward Gunung Brinchang - the highest accessible peak in Pahang. Located on the border between Pahang and Perak, Gunung Brinchang is one of the few mountains in Malaysia where the summit can be reached by car.

At the end of the paved road, we continued our journey on foot, entering the famous Mossy Forest. Thankfully, the initial stretch of the trail was made easier by a well-constructed timber boardwalk and stairway, allowing us to enjoy the climb with minimal difficulty. We eventually stopped at an elevation of around 2,000 m (6,561 feet) above sea level.

The trail continues further to the Lookout Tower, but we decided not to proceed after some returning hikers warned us that the final stretch - without boardwalk or stairs - was wet, muddy, and slippery, making it risky to continue.

The vegetation in Mossy Forest reminded us very much of what is found on Mount Kinabalu - lush, misty, and otherworldly. The view from the boardwalk was absolutely breathtaking. Even at 2,000 m, we found ourselves standing above the clouds, with the majestic mountain range stretching out before us like a living painting. 

Sadly, it was disheartening to see that many Malaysians and visitors still lack a sense of environmental responsibility. The sight of discarded plastic bottles and other non-degradable trash carelessly thrown down the hillside next to the car park spoke volumes about the mindset of some visitors. In a place as pristine and fragile as the Mossy Forest, such disregard for nature is both disappointing and deeply troubling.

The Mossy Forest marked the final stop of our visit to Cameron Highlands. From there, we began our drive to Mentakab, a journey of approximately 260 Km.

Tour of Pahang - BOH Tea Plantation

I believe most visitors - especially first-timers - to Cameron Highlands would almost certainly make a stop at the BOH Tea Plantation, also known as the Sungai Palas Tea Estate. Renowned as the largest tea plantation in Malaysia, its sheer scale is truly awe-inspiring.

Established in 1929, the estate has come a long way from its humble beginnings. Today, it serves not only as a working tea plantation but also as an educational destination for tourists interested in learning about the entire tea-making process - from planting and harvesting the leaves to processing them into the familiar beverage enjoyed around the world.

At their spacious cafeteria, visitors can sample a variety of teas produced by BOH, all while taking in the breathtaking panoramic view of the lush, rolling tea fields that stretch as far as the eye can see.

Tour of Pahang - Time Tunnel Gallery

It’s certainly commendable that someone had the foresight to create a small gallery or museum in Cameron Highlands, offering visitors a refreshing alternative to the usual strawberry farms and vegetable plots that dominate most tours of the area.

The Time Tunnel Gallery may not be a grand or polished museum, but it has its own unique charm. Housed within a few adjoining wooden shoplots right along the main road, it's fairly easy to spot if you're driving toward Brinchang from Sungai Bertam. The building is rather run-down, and the display of artifacts and memorabilia feels somewhat haphazard - more like a personal collection than a curated exhibition.

The gallery is staffed by just one person, stationed at the entrance counter, whose primary role appears to be collecting the RM5.00 entry fee from each visitor. Beyond that, there is little in terms of guided information or interpretation.

Still, for those born in the 1950s, many of the items on display - old radios, tin toys, enamel mugs, vintage signboards, and more - stir up a wave of nostalgia, transporting you back to a simpler, bygone era. Despite its modest presentation, the Time Tunnel Gallery offers a quiet, reflective pause in the midst of the highlands' tourist bustle.

Because of the lack of electricity in those days, thermo flask was the only gadget to store hot water.

Iron run on burning charcoal.

Every household had a cupboard likes this to store food and cutlery. No fridge in those days!

Trishaw used by people to move around - a form of taxi in those days!

Marbles we used to play when we were kids in the village in the 1950s and 1960s.

Paper bag used to hold sundry items when we did our shopping.