Mulu National Park Sarawak - Penan & Rainforests

On the way to the Wind Cave, the boat stopped by a riverbank for visitors to visit a Penan settlement. I was quite excited and looked forward to see the Penan longhouses. 

Penan was unknown to the world before early 1980's. This little tribe in Sarawak was brought to world attention by Bruno Manser, a Swiss environmental activist back in the mid-1980's. He stayed with the Penan and organised several blockages against timber companies. After he emerged from the rainforests in 1990, he was involved in activities related to the preservation of rainforests and human rights of indigenous people especially the Penan. He later founded the Bruno Manser Fund in 1991 which is active even to these days. Unfortunately, he disappeared during his last journey to Sarawak in May 2000 and was never found. He is presumed dead.

Quite to our disappointment, we did not find any traditional longhouse but instead we saw "modernized" version made of reinforced concrete structure and brickwalls. The State Government has since the era of Bruno Manser started program to relocate Penan who used to live a nomadic life to permanent settlement. This has allowed the Penan to enjoy better public, education and health amenity. The Penan here are given the option of pursuing new survival skill by engaging in the making and sale of handicrafts or to roam the forest nearby and hunt for whatever little wildlife that they can find. I think the government should not be faulted for their effort in elevating the quality of the life of this indigenous people. At every stage of human struggle for better life throughout history, certain thing unfortunately is lost whether by choice or circumstances because of the change of environment.

Modern Penan Longhouse.

Stores selling handicrafts and souvenirs.

This man sells three blowpipe darts for one buck.

The Mulu National Park itself also organizes many activities to cater for a variety of visitors (Read here) such as trekking, adventure caving. But the more popular ones are the Canopy Walk and the Night Walk. We decided against doing the Canopy Walk which was scheduled in the afternoon because of the intense sunlight that we may have to expose ourselves to. Instead we decided to take a botany walk around the park's nearby trail.

Massive trees which are accessible within 10 minutes walk 

from the Park Office.

Hammerhead worm, cricket and grasshopper seen along the trail.

Millipede, butterfly larva and lizard.

Floral seen along the trail.