Exploring Urumqi

After visiting Wuerhe Ghost City, our bus then traveled approximately 10Km to our accommodation for the night, Begonia Hotel in Karamay. With that final excursion, our guided tour of Xian and Northern Xinjiang effectively came to an end.

The next morning on 04.06.2025 (Day 13), we checked out from the hotel and embarked on a 410Km drive to Urumqi. We arrived in the late afternoon and checked into Hoi Tak Hotel, marking the start of the free-and-easy segment of our trip. From that point onward, we were free to explore Urumqi at our own pace, until our scheduled departure for home on 06.06.2025.

Urumqi, the capital of the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, is a sprawling and modern metropolis with a population of around 4 million - accounting for a significant portion of Xinjiang’s total population of 25 million. Approximately 75% of Urumqi’s residents are Han Chinese, while Uygurs make up about 12 - 15%. The remainder comprises various minority ethnic groups, including Kazakhs, Hui, Kyrgyz, and Mongols.

Directly in front of our hotel, lies the expansive People’s Square - an energetic and bustling public space at the heart of the city. We passed through the square a couple of times during our stay, but it was in the evenings that the place truly came alive. Locals gathered in large numbers to take part in synchronized group dancing, their graceful and coordinated movements creating a lively, festive atmosphere. It was a display of community spirit and a vivid reflection of Urumqi’s dynamic urban culture.

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We had a full day on Day 14 (05.06.2025) to explore Urumqi at our own leisure. We began the day by visiting several nearby shopping malls, accompanying the ladies in browsing through the ladies' casual wear sections. 

After that, we wandered through the city streets in search of local eateries eager to sample some of Urumqi's culinary specialties.

Trying out the tandoor oven baked bum.

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Hand-pulled noodle.

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But the real highlight of our evening outings was a visit to the famous Urumqi International Grand Bazaar (乌鲁木齐国际大巴扎). Known as one of the largest bazaars in the world, the Urumqi Grand Bazaar is a major cultural and commercial landmark in Xinjiang. Located in the heart of the city, it is a vibrant showcase of the region’s ethnic diversity - especially the rich cultural heritage of the Uygur people. The bazaar features Islamic-style architecture, with intricately designed facades, domes, and minarets.

Inside the bazaar, we were greeted by a dizzying variety of goods - a vibrant showcase of local culture and craftsmanship. Traditional Uyghur handicrafts filled the stalls: hand-forged knives, intricately painted pottery, souvenirs and richly woven carpets. The air was thick with the aroma of exotic spices, while tables overflowed with dried fruits like raisins, apricots, and walnuts. Vivid textiles and beautifully embroidered fabrics added splashes of color to every corner.

The bazaar is also a paradise for food lovers, offering a tantalizing array of authentic Uyghur and Central Asian dishes. We saw stalls selling grilled lamb kebabs, freshly baked naan from tandoor ovens, fragrant rice pilaf with lamb and carrots, and hand-pulled noodles served with sauces.

As is common in traditional markets, bargaining is part of the shopping ritual - though, for me, it was more of a nuisance than a novelty!

While strolling further, we discovered a hidden basement level within the bazaar. The number of stalls there was significantly fewer. Most visitors, it seemed, never ventured that far down. Interestingly, we found that the stall owners on this lower level were more straightforward, often offering noticeably lower prices without much need for bargaining. It felt like an overlooked corner of the bazaar - quieter, less chaotic, and refreshingly honest.

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As I passed this station, my attention was immediately drawn to two soldiers standing perfectly still inside a box. At first glance, I assumed they were simply sculptures on display. However, Jenny insisted they were real people. I was skeptical - until, after what seemed like an eternity of absolute stillness, both suddenly moved, proving her right. Their discipline and composure were truly impressive.

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Barbequed fish and chicken for lunch.

The Urumqi Grand Bazaar is far more than just a marketplace; it is a living, breathing cultural mosaic that offers a window into the lives, traditions, and artistry of Xinjiang’s ethnic communities. For visitors to Urumqi, it is an unforgettable experience - and a must-see destination.

Wuerhe Ghost City, Xinjiang

Day 12,  03.06.2025, we checked out from our hotel in Jiadengyu and began our journey southward, traveling toward our next destination - Wuerhe Ghost City. Along the way, we stopped in Burqin for lunch, a river town nestled near the Irtysh River.

Hotel where we stayed in Jiadengyu.

Burqin turned out to be the westernmost point we had reached on this entire journey from Xian, having traveled roughly 3,500Km by road. That realization alone was striking. Even more surprising, however, was the discovery that the coffee I ordered at a quaint outlet named Jeremiah after lunch had been imported from Malaysia - a small, unexpected connection to home in such a far-flung place.

After our break in Burqin, we continued southeast for another 320Km, arriving at Wuerhe Ghost City (乌尔禾魔鬼城) around 4:45pm. This vast desert landscape is famous for its haunting Yardang landforms - strange, wind-eroded shapes sculpted over millions of years.

These rock formations rise like natural sculptures from the barren earth, some resembling ancient fortresses, beasts, or abandoned vessels stranded in an ocean of sand. With the afternoon sun casting long shadows over the rippling terrain, the place felt like a set from a science fiction epic - utterly surreal.

The man-shaped stone perched atop a massive rock outcrop
 is said to resemble Xuanzang, the Buddhist monk who
journeyed to India.

This is said to resemble "The Great Sphinx of Giza".

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For the more adventurous - and those undeterred by the searing desert heat - camel rides are readily available, offering another way to explore the unusual landscape.

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The site owes its name, “Ghost City” (鬼城), to the howling winds that sweep through the valleys and formations, producing eerie, unearthly sounds. These ghostly acoustics have inspired not only folklore but also filmmakers, with several Chinese movies and TV series choosing this dramatic location as their backdrop.

Beyond its haunting beauty, the Ghost City is also a paleontological site of global interest. Numerous dinosaur fossils have been excavated in the region, with protected fossil zones marking the area's rich prehistoric history. It’s a place where natural history and myth converge.

We boarded the sightseeing shuttle, which followed a designated route through the park, stopping at major vantage points. The terrain was harsh and exposed, and the afternoon heat was intense, radiating off the desert floor and adding to the otherworldly feel of the environment.

If there’s one lasting impression of Wuerhe Ghost City, it’s the sense of being transported to a forgotten world - a place shaped by wind, time, and legend, offering a dramatic and unforgettable contrast to the alpine lakes of Kanas and Tianchi and the verdant grasslands of Hemu.

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We were originally scheduled to stop at the final station, known as "Dinosaur Valley" (恐龙谷) or "Dinosaur Park" (恐龙园). Unfortunately, due to a mix of possible tour fatigue and general disinterest from some members of the group, the tour leader was persuaded to skip the stop and continue on. For me, it was a moment of genuine regret.

This particular site features numerous life-sized dinosaur sculptures dramatically placed among the Yardang formations, along with informative displays that shed light on the area's rich prehistoric significance. A visit there would have offered a more vivid and tangible glimpse into the region’s dinosaur-era past - a fitting finale to this ancient landscape of Wuerhe Ghost City.

Kanas Lake, Xinjiang

The next morning, 02.06.2025 (Day 11), as usual, we had breakfast at our hotel. Unfortunately, the experience left much to be desired. Breakfast was served in a cramped basement space - so small that it barely accommodated our 20-person group. The food selection was minimal and uninspired, and it turned out to be the worst breakfast we’d had on the trip so far.

After the meal, before setting out for our next destination, we took a moment to soak in the crisp mountain air and the tranquil beauty of the surrounding valley. Snow-dusted peaks loomed in the distance, while herds of cows grazed peacefully in nearby fields - a quiet, pastoral scene that provided a calming start to the day.

Our journey continued toward the entrance of Kanas Scenic Area, taking us along a breathtaking 35Km route. The scenery was equally stunning - a picturesque blend of emerald hills, dense forest and wild open pasture. Along the way, our bus occasionally slowed or came to a gentle stop to allow herds of sheep to cross the road, seemingly unaware of the traffic around them!

The Jiadengyu Tourist Reception Center was vast and well-organized, reflecting the area’s popularity as a national-level attraction. From here, we boarded the first shuttle bus at an elevation of approximately 1,390m above sea level.

The bus wound its way through forested terrain and eventually brought us down to the Lake Shore Area, located at around 1,340m, near the surface level of Kanas Lake. At this stop, we were presented with three options: take a leisurely stroll around the lake, take a boat cruise or embark on a more demanding climb to the summit for a panoramic view. This time, the decision was easy since we took a boat cruise in Tianchi earlier. My wife and I, along with Jenny and her husband Patrick, chose the climb. The rest of the group chose boat cruise.

We boarded a second shuttle bus, which took us up to the base of the 1,068-step climb leading to Guanyu Pavilion (观鱼亭) - also known as the Fish Viewing Pavilion - located at an elevation of about 1,900m above sea level.

The ascent was moderately strenuous, and it took us just under an hour to reach the summit. We paused at several viewing platforms along the way to catch our breath and marvel at the unfolding vistas. As we climbed higher, the lake revealed itself in stunning, sweeping views - an ever-changing palette of blues and greens framed by pristine alpine forests.

From the Guanyu Pavilion, situated roughly 600 meters above the lake’s surface, we were rewarded with a truly magnificent panorama of Kanas Lake and the surrounding valleys and peaks. The turquoise colour lake instantly reminded me of another similar colour lake we visited in the Canadian Rockies - Peyto Lake - way back in August 2017 (Read here).

Kanas Lake (喀纳斯湖) is a glacial alpine lake nestled in the Altai Mountains of northern Xinjiang, near the borders of Russia, Kazakhstan, and Mongolia. Covering an area of approximately 45.7 sq. m and reaching depths of up to 188m. The lake is renowned for its crescent-shaped form and mesmerizing turquoise waters.

What makes Kanas Lake particularly captivating is the way its color transforms throughout the day and across the seasons - from soft grey-blue and emerald green to radiant turquoise. This phenomenon is largely due to the fine glacial silt - often called "rock flour" - suspended in the water, which scatters light in unique ways depending on weather and sunlight.

Kanas Lake is not just a natural wonder - it’s also a place shrouded in myth and mystery. One of the most enduring legend is that of the "Kanas Lake Monster" - a supposed 10m long, serpent-like creature said to lurk beneath the lake's turquoise waters. Over the years, sporadic sightings and sensational stories have kept the legend alive, fueling the curiosity of visitors and locals alike!

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From Guanyu Pavilion, we took an alternative route down to the shutter bus drop-off pick-up point. The descent was noticeably easier and much quicker compared to the ascend.

 

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From Kanas Lake, our bus journeyed along a scenic route that followed the river flowing downstream from the lake. Along the way, we made stops at three of the most popular and picturesque spots in the area - Fairy Bay, Moon Bay, and Wolong Bay.

Our first stop was Fairy Bay, a serene and mystical stretch of the river often enveloped in early morning mist, lending it an ethereal quality that lives up to its name.

Next, we arrived at Moon Bay, renowned for its crescent-shaped bend in the Kanas River. The bay’s striking turquoise waters, set against a backdrop of dense forest and dramatic mountain slopes, create a breathtaking contrast. Its mirror-like surface and naturally sculpted curves make it one of the most photographed locations in the entire Kanas region.

Our final stop was Wolong Bay (卧龙湾), also known as Crouching Dragon Bay. This bay is named after a small, dragon-shaped island that appears to be coiled protectively in the middle of the river - an illusion created by the accumulation of sediment over time. Surrounded by undisturbed forest and reflecting the sky like a vast, glassy canvas, Wolong Bay adds a mythical dimension to the already magical Kanas landscape.

From Wolong Bay, our bus headed south for about 25Km to Jiadengyu where we would be spending the night at one of the accommodations.