Linz Uncovered: History, Squares and Stories

Our cruise departed Passau at 6:00 pm on 10 May 2026, and by 2:00 am the following day it had arrived in Linz, Austria. The journey downstream from Passau to Linz took just over eight hours. We woke up to a new city along the Danube, where the most striking feature was the prominent graffiti covering the riverside walls.

After breakfast, we set out on a walking tour of Linz to gain a deeper understanding of the city.

Linz is the third-largest city in Austria and the capital of the state of Upper Austria. Situated on the banks of the Danube River, it serves as an important economic, cultural, and technological hub. Unlike Vienna, which is renowned for its imperial heritage, or Salzburg, celebrated for its musical traditions, Linz has developed its identity through a distinctive blend of historical significance, industrial strength, and modern innovation.

The city's origins date back to Roman times, when a settlement called Lentia was established along an important trade route. Linz was first mentioned in written records in 799 and later became an important trading center during the Middle Ages. In the fifteenth century, Emperor Frederick III used Linz as his residence, increasing its political importance.

During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Linz developed into one of Austria's leading industrial cities. Steel production and manufacturing became major parts of its economy, earning it the nickname "Austria's steel city." After World War II, the city rebuilt and modernized its industries.

Today, Linz is not only an industrial center but also a hub for education, technology, and culture. The city is home to Ars Electronica, a world-famous institution dedicated to digital art and innovation. It also hosts universities, research centers, and technology companies.

Linz is recognized as a city that successfully combines its historical heritage with modern development, making it one of Austria's most important and dynamic cities.

Our first stop was at Hauptplatz (Main Square), the historic heart of Linz and one of Austria’s largest town squares. This area is closely connected to one of the most significant and controversial chapters in the city’s history. The tram lines that run through the square today pass through what has been Linz’s political, commercial, and social center since the Middle Ages. During the Nazi era, the square was renamed Adolf-Hitler-Platz.

At the center of Hauptplatz stands the Trinity Column, a Baroque monument built between 1717 and 1723 in gratitude for the city being spared from plague, war, and fire. 

Our tour guide drew our attention to the eastern side of the square - the Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus). She pointed to a balcony which became the site of a pivotal historical event. On 12 March 1938, following the Anschluss - the annexation of Austria into Nazi Germany - Adolf Hitler appeared on the Rathaus balcony and delivered what is often described as his first public speech on Austrian soil after entering the country. Contemporary photographs and film footage show thousands of people gathered in Hauptplatz below to witness the event.

Linz held particular significance for Hitler, who spent part of his youth in the region and considered it his spiritual hometown. He envisioned transforming the city into a major cultural capital of the Third Reich, complete with monumental architecture, museums, bridges, and government buildings. While many of these grand plans were never realized, some projects were constructed, including the imposing bridgehead buildings near the Danube River.

As a result, the Rathaus balcony became a powerful symbol of Nazi propaganda. Today, Linz continues to grapple with this complex legacy, and discussions about how to commemorate and contextualize this period remain an important part of the city’s ongoing engagement with its history.

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We were taken to this 16th century Renaissance building called Mozarthaus. This is famous because Wolgang Amadeus Mozart stayed here in November 1783 as a guest of Count Thun. In 1783, Mozart was traveling from Salzburg to Vienna with his wife, Constanze when they stopped in the city of Linz, Austria. While there, he was hosted by Count Thun, who organized a public concert in Mozart’s honor.

During Mozart's brief three-day visit to Linz in 1783, he composed one of his most famous works there, the Symphony No. 36 in C major, commonly known as the “Linz Symphony".

The challenge was that Mozart had no suitable symphony prepared for the public concert. In response, he composed an entirely new symphony in an exceptionally short time. This work was performed in Linz on 4 November 1783 and became one of his notable symphonies.

The piece was later named the “Linz Symphony” after the city where it was created and first performed. This event highlights both Mozart’s remarkable speed and creativity as a composer and explains why Linz holds a special place in his musical legacy.

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From Mozarthaus, we continued to Landhausbrücke, where we saw an old stone arch bridge originally built between 1564 and 1565. The bridge was constructed as part of a defensive moat system designed to protect the Landhaus. Over the centuries, it was buried and eventually forgotten before being rediscovered in 2008. Today, the remains have been carefully preserved as a protected monument and can be viewed through a corridor at ground level.

As we continued our walk, we spotted this “short” displayed in a shop window. This is called Lederhosen - traditional leather breeches that originated in the 18th century as practical workwear for labourers, farmers, and hunters in the Alpine regions.

Lederhosen are typically made from durable leather, such as deer suede, buckskin, or cowhide, making them well-suited for rugged outdoor work. Today, they are best known as a symbol of Bavarian culture and are most famously worn during Oktoberfest and other traditional folk festivals.

A Leisurely Ride Along Passau’s Riverfront

After the walking tour in the morning of 10 May 2026, we were free to spend the afternoon as we pleased. After lunch, we decided to make use of the bicycles provided on the cruise and cycle around the riverfront of the Passau peninsula.

It turned out to be one of the highlights of our time there. We were able to see the unique confluence of Passau’s three rivers - the Danube, the Inn, and the Ilz - each with its own distinct colour and character as they meet. The ride itself lasted about three-quarters of an hour, taking us along a scenic network of riverside paths interspersed with charming cobblestone streets and quiet corners of the old town.

It was a wonderfully relaxed and immersive way to experience the city, and definitely something we won’t forget. It ranks right up there with another unforgettable moment from about a year and a half earlier - our swim in the Aegean Sea (Read here).

At the tip of the peninsular.

Passau: Gateway to Our Danube River Cruise

After spending three full days in Munich, we departed by train early in the morning of 9 May 2026 for Passau, where we would begin our seven-day cruise along the Danube River.

After checking in, settling into our cabin, and enjoying lunch, we headed up to the deck to take in the beautiful views of this historic city.

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The following day, we joined a walking tour of Passau arranged by the cruise company, which gave us a deeper appreciation of the city's rich history and heritage.

Passau is an ancient city whose origins date back to before 15 BC, when Celtic tribes inhabited the region around the confluence of three rivers. Around 15 BC, the Romans conquered the area and established settlements and military outposts, laying the foundations for the city's later development.

As we walked through the city, our guide spoke about one of Passau's recurring challenges - flooding. Passau frequently experiences floods because it lies at the meeting point of three rivers: the Danube, Inn, and Ilz. The Inn carries large volumes of water from the Alps, the Danube drains a vast portion of Central Europe, and the Ilz responds rapidly to local rainfall. When all three rivers rise simultaneously, water levels can increase dramatically. The city's narrow river valley and historic urban layout further heighten the flood risk.

Major floods have occurred throughout Passau's history, including in 1501, 2002, and 2013. Although modern flood-control measures and forecasting systems have significantly reduced damage, flooding remains a recurring challenge.

Flood-level markings on one building recorded the highest flood on 15 August 1501 and another severe flood on 3 June 2013, only slightly lower than the historic record.

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Our guide also explained Passau's importance during the Middle Ages. Owing to its strategic location on the Danube and its status as the seat of a powerful bishopric, Passau became an influential city within the Holy Roman Empire. The Prince-Bishops exercised both religious and political authority, governing extensive territories while benefiting from trade and toll revenues. The city also played a significant role in the spread of Christianity throughout Central Europe.

Over time, however, the influence of the bishopric declined as neighbouring states grew stronger. In 1803, following the secularisation of church territories, Passau became part of Bavaria. Although it lost its political independence, the city's historical significance remains evident in its religious monuments and architectural heritage.

During the walk, our guide pointed out a fortress perched high on a hill overlooking the city—Veste Oberhaus. Situated on St. Georgsberg Hill, this imposing stronghold was built in 1219 by the Prince-Bishops of Passau. It served both as a military fortress and as a powerful symbol of the bishops' authority within the Holy Roman Empire. Its elevated position provided strategic control over the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers, as well as the important trade routes passing through the region.

Over the centuries, the fortress was expanded and reinforced, becoming one of the largest and most important fortifications in southern Germany. It protected the bishopric during periods of conflict and occasionally served as a prison for political opponents. After Passau became part of Bavaria in 1803, the fortress gradually lost its military role and was subsequently used for administrative and military purposes.

Today, Veste Oberhaus functions as a museum and cultural site, preserving the history of Passau and its former bishopric. The complex combines medieval defensive structures with later Renaissance and Baroque additions, reflecting its long and varied history. It remains one of Passau's most recognisable landmarks and offers panoramic views of the city and the spectacular confluence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers.

Aerial view of Veste Oberhaus. The complex is much bigger than what's is seen from the river level below.

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The tour continued to St. Stephen's Cathedral, one of Passau's most impressive landmarks. This magnificent Baroque cathedral was rebuilt after the devastating city fire of 1662. Interestingly, the building appears to have different façades when viewed from various angles, an effect created by its grand scale, curved Baroque design, and integration into Passau's medieval street network.

The cathedral stands on the site of earlier medieval churches and was reconstructed by Italian architects who introduced the elegant twin towers, copper domes, and dramatic architectural features visible today. As the seat of the powerful Prince-Bishops of Passau, it served not only as a religious centre but also as a symbol of political power and prestige.

Today, St. Stephen's Cathedral remains one of Bavaria's most important historical and architectural treasures, attracting visitors from around the world who come to admire its beauty, history, and remarkable Baroque design.

Inside St. Stephen's Cathedral.

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Other interesting observations along the walking tour.

At the beer fountain. Beer will flow non-stop during the October Fest!

Just before we headed back to our cruise, we stopped to admire the rows of colourful buildings lining the opposite riverfront. Painted in soft pastel shades of yellow, pink, green, blue, and cream, these houses reflected the strong Italian and Baroque influences that shaped Passau after the devastating fire of 1662. Rebuilt by Italian architects and craftsmen, many of the buildings feature elegant façades, decorative stucco work, and arched windows that give the city a distinctly southern European character. Against the backdrop of the three rivers and the surrounding hills, the colourful streetscapes add greatly to Passau's charm and make the city one of Bavaria's most picturesque destinations.

Hofgarden and Munich Residenz

On 8 May 2026, which is a day before checking into the river cruise, we went to explore the Munich Residenz and the Hofgarden. Residenz Munich was once the palace of the Bavarian royalty.

Hofgarten which is next to the Munich Residenz was originally designed as the palace garden for the rulers of Bavaria. Located directly north of the Residenz in Munich, the Hofgarten was created in the early 17th century as a private space for relaxation, leisure, and courtly activities. Together, the garden and the palace formed a unified royal complex that reflected the power and prestige of the Wittelsbach dynasty. Today, the Hofgarten remains an important historical and cultural landmark, providing visitors with a scenic connection to the Residenz and offering insight into the lifestyle of Bavaria’s former royal court.

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The Munich Residenz is the largest city palace in Germany and one of Munich's most important historic landmarks. Originally begun as a fortified castle in the late 14th century, it was expanded over more than 400 years into a vast palace complex that served as the official residence and seat of government of Bavaria's Wittelsbach rulers, including dukes, electors, and kings.

The palace combines Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical architectural styles, reflecting the tastes and ambitions of successive generations of Bavarian rulers. Its highlights include the magnificent Antiquarium, lavish royal apartments, ornate state rooms, and the Treasury, which houses crowns, jewels, and other royal artifacts.

After the Bavarian monarchy ended in 1918, the Residenz ceased to function as a royal residence. Today, it operates as a museum, offering visitors a glimpse into the political power, artistic patronage, and daily life of Bavaria's former ruling dynasty. 

A Chapel in the palace complex.

Bedchamber.

The Bavarian monarchy came to an end in November 1918 amid the upheaval that followed Germany's defeat in World War I. Years of wartime hardship - including food shortages, economic distress, and devastating casualties - had eroded public confidence in the ruling order. Many Bavarians felt that the existing political system had failed to protect ordinary people, while democratic and socialist movements gained momentum by calling for greater representation and reform.

Against this backdrop of unrest, socialist leader Kurt Eisner led a revolution in Munich and proclaimed Bavaria a republic. King Ludwig III fled the capital and effectively relinquished power, bringing more than 700 years of rule by the House of Wittelsbach to an end. Unlike some monarchs overthrown in other revolutions, Ludwig III was not executed; he lived in exile and died in 1921.

As I walked through the grand halls of the Munich Residenz, I couldn't help but reflect on how similar the downfall of great monarchies often seems. The details differ, but the underlying causes are strikingly familiar: war, economic hardship, social inequality, and a growing disconnect between rulers and the people they governed.

The Romanov dynasty in Russia met a far more violent end. During World War I, military defeats, economic collapse, food shortages, and widespread dissatisfaction with the autocratic rule of Tsar Nicholas II fueled the Russian Revolution of 1917. The Tsar abdicated, ending more than three centuries of Romanov rule. As Russia descended into civil war, Nicholas II and his family were executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918, marking one of the most dramatic and tragic collapses of a European monarchy (Read here). 

More than a century earlier, the French monarchy fell during the French Revolution. Burdened by crushing debt, economic crisis, rising food prices, and deep resentment toward aristocratic privilege, France experienced a popular uprising that challenged the very foundations of the old order. The monarchy was abolished in 1792, and King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette were executed the following year. Their downfall symbolized the end of an era and the beginning of a new political age shaped by ideas of citizenship, equality, and popular sovereignty. Read here about the post on Versailles.

Standing in these magnificent palaces today, it is easy to be captivated by the wealth, power, and grandeur they represent. Yet history reminds us that even the most powerful dynasties are not immune to change. Palaces endure long after their rulers are gone, serving as monuments not only to past glory but also to a timeless lesson: no throne is permanent when a government loses the trust and support of its people.