These days, besides 1MDB, the other most talked about word is probably Hudud. Whenever we hear or read about Hudud, we think of Kelantan. This is because Kelantan or PAS has been relentless in pursuing the implementation of Hudud. To be more precise, it is PAS' Hadi Awang of Kelantan who is obsessed about this rather than Kelantanese perse.
Before 11 October 2016, I could not say much about Kelantan because I have never been there before that. But after spending almost three days in Kelantan, I do have a better idea of this so-called Islamic heart land of Malaysia.
Other than the constant blaring of Azam prayers every now and then and the predominant Muslim population, there is little difference between Kota Bharu and any other West Malaysian towns. Occasionally, one can see a few women donning the niqab. Yet, they are the minority rather than the majority. In Kota Bharu, women appear to be in the forefront dominating most business premises, outlets and counters. Most stores in Siti Khadijah Market are manned by women as I observed.
After crisscrossing Kelantan, it appears to me that Kelantan is more culturally and religiously diverse than what it has been portrayed.
Thai or Siamese influence is particularly strong in the northern part of Kelantan. In some locations, one may feel like visiting Thailand or part of China rather than an Islamic state.
In Rantau Panjang, a town close to Thai border, the local mosque design looks more like a Chinese museum rather than the traditional Arab dome-shaped roof structure that we are used to.
Food wise, one can savor typical Kelantanese food, Thai and Chinese food. There is no shortage of Chinese food if one knows where to look for them. We particularly enjoyed Khau Jam which is the equivalence of Nasi Kerabu but of Thai origin. The rice is cooked in a variety of herbs and leaves and is served with the same accompaniments and topped with chilli paste and fish crackers, a must for all Kelantanese dishes.
Before 11 October 2016, I could not say much about Kelantan because I have never been there before that. But after spending almost three days in Kelantan, I do have a better idea of this so-called Islamic heart land of Malaysia.
Other than the constant blaring of Azam prayers every now and then and the predominant Muslim population, there is little difference between Kota Bharu and any other West Malaysian towns. Occasionally, one can see a few women donning the niqab. Yet, they are the minority rather than the majority. In Kota Bharu, women appear to be in the forefront dominating most business premises, outlets and counters. Most stores in Siti Khadijah Market are manned by women as I observed.
After crisscrossing Kelantan, it appears to me that Kelantan is more culturally and religiously diverse than what it has been portrayed.
Thai or Siamese influence is particularly strong in the northern part of Kelantan. In some locations, one may feel like visiting Thailand or part of China rather than an Islamic state.
In Rantau Panjang, a town close to Thai border, the local mosque design looks more like a Chinese museum rather than the traditional Arab dome-shaped roof structure that we are used to.
Food wise, one can savor typical Kelantanese food, Thai and Chinese food. There is no shortage of Chinese food if one knows where to look for them. We particularly enjoyed Khau Jam which is the equivalence of Nasi Kerabu but of Thai origin. The rice is cooked in a variety of herbs and leaves and is served with the same accompaniments and topped with chilli paste and fish crackers, a must for all Kelantanese dishes.
According to local Chinese I talked to, pork is openly sold in public markets and in full view of the Muslim!
After seeing Kelantan first hand, the question remains. What is the real agenda for Hudud?
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A building complex in Rantau Panjang which is a mosque
looks more like a Chinese temple than the traditional mosque design that we are used to. |
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| Siti Khatijah Market. |
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| Khau Jam of Kedai Kopi dan Makanan U-Lang Corner. |
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| Chicken grilled by coconut husks fire and Tong Fen Prawn |
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| Temple of Siamese design in Kelantan. |
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