Fidel Castro (1926 - 2016)

Before 25 November 2016, Fidel Castro was probably the very last man on earth who rose to become a national leader through hard fought revolution. He belonged to a breed of politicians or more appropriately revolutionaries who through sheer personal conviction and skillful mobilization of the masses to change the history and destiny of Cuba. People of the likes, Stalin, Mao Zedong, Ho Chi Minh and even Nelson Mandela are all gone. The very last of such breed would likely be Xanana Gusmao of East Timor.

Almost all revolutionaries are controversial people and Fidel Castro was no exception. They are both loved and equally hated. It all depends on which side you belong. The bourgeoisie, many of whom were stripped of their wealth and power left Cuba for Miami in US celebrated his death. But the working class majority who were liberated and given the opportunity to share the nation's wealth wept for his passing.

Fidel Castro was an avowed adversary of US which to him is the embodiment of ultimate capitalism. He once said, "I find capitalism repugnant. It is filthy, it is gross, it is alienating, because it causes war, hypocrisy and competition". He claimed to have survived 634 assassination attempts and plots on his life, mainly from CIA and US-based Cuban exiles. He stayed in power for 49 years from 1959 until he ceded power to his brother Raul in 2008. He outlasted nine US presidents starting from Dwight Eisenhower to George W Bush.

He had hoped that the capitalist system in US would disappear one day but that did not happen in his life time. Instead he saw the virtual demise of communism in Soviet Union and Communist China. In the end he had to let his brother do the mending of tie with the US and he did live to see the re-establishment of diplomatic relation between his country and foe, the US.

Will there be another Castro is the future, probably not. Gone were the days when men were driven by political ideology to become revolutionaries. Today, we see many "war lords" fighting for economic gains and vengeful sectarian pursuits rather than grand scheme that aim to liberate the oppressed, the marginalized or the disadvantaged. The term, "a parliament of baboons" aptly describes the kind of politicians we have today!

Fidel Castro will be remembered as the little "David" who dared to stand up against the mighty neighbor "Goliah", the United State of America and survived. History will remember him both as a hero just as much as a villain!

A Stand for the Better

For the fifth time, people in YELLOW marched in major cities in Malaysia on 17 November 2016 to make a public stand on key issues affecting the health of the nation and the future generations of the country. Bersih 5 was a peaceful democratic protest calling for Free and Fair Election, Right to Dissent, Strengthening of Parliamentary Democracy and Empowering Sabah and Sarawak among others.

In KK at the Ujana Rimba Tropika, we saw old familiar faces as well as new faces.

The silence of many to join the march is understandable. Some may hold the view that nothing would come out of this. Some were unable to make a public stand because of a variety of reasons - being a member of the civil service, working in the GLC's or are currently having a government contract...... 

But the most disappointing of all is to find familiar individuals who are very vocal in private chat groups against the misdeeds of the current national leadership. Strong statement such as "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing" has been prominently posted. But sadly when challenged to make a public stand of their disgust in such opportunity like Bersih 5 protest, they were conspicuously silent! They are at best armchair warriors and at worst grand actors!

With Gina in the middle, wife of Vincent Gadalon.

With Lam Kee Hing.

Top photo: With Joseph Wong (left) and Chua Tok Sing (middle).
Bottom left photo: With Peter Tsen.

Sourcing Water for Portable Water Supply Schemes

Searching for suitable water sources for portable water supply schemes often takes us deep into forested catchment areas. These treks are not always easy - steep terrain, dense vegetation, and unpredictable weather can make the journey physically demanding and logistically challenging. Yet, every so often, the hard work pays off, not just in terms of technical findings, but also in the breathtaking views and untouched natural beauty we encounter along the way.

Our most recent excursion brought us to Kiulu, where we set out to assess a small river upstream of the Tuaran River as a potential intake site. Although we attempted to access the area via an alternative route, the effort proved unsuccessful due to difficult terrain and unclear trails. Nonetheless, the journey was far from disappointing. The scenery along the way was simply spectacular - rolling hills, cascading waters, and panoramic views that made the entire trip worthwhile.

However, tapping into rivers in this part of Sabah comes with its own set of challenges. The river system in Kiulu is well-known for two things: white water rafting and the Tagal System. The Tagal System is a traditional community-based river management practice whereby fishing is strictly prohibited in designated zones, except during specific times of the year. These zones are managed by individual villages or kampung, with each section of the river falling under the stewardship of local communities. Fishing is typically permitted during the dry season, usually between February and April (Read here).

This sustainable system ensures the preservation of fish populations and river health, but it also means that any water extraction efforts must take into account the social and ecological frameworks in place. As such, any plans to draw water from the Kiulu river system will require close collaboration with local stakeholders and careful consideration of both environmental and cultural factors.

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While in Kiulu, we took the opportunity to visit my maternal uncle, Wesley Dungko Pai, whose house is nestled right beside the Tuaran River. It was a meaningful stop, as we hadn’t seen him since our last visit in February 2013 (Read here).

We were fortunate to catch him at home - just in time before he was due to leave for Kota Kinabalu to attend a birthday celebration organized by his children later that evening. Coincidentally, it was his birthday that very day - 9 November 2016 - and he had just turned 79.

Uncle Wesley has always been supportive and open-minded when it comes to community development. He expressed a receptive attitude toward the idea of the government abstracting water from the river system for a public water supply scheme. His perspective, grounded in both local knowledge and community experience, adds valuable insight as we consider the viability and acceptance of such projects in the area.

The Red Panda in Chengdu

The Panda, China’s national animal, is arguably one of the most lovable and iconic creatures in the world. Our itinerary in Chengdu included a visit to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, a renowned center dedicated to the conservation of this endangered species. While we did manage to catch a glimpse of the pandas, it wasn’t without a bit of a struggle - maneuvering through the dense crowd of visitors that packed the center that day was no easy feat.

This wasn’t my first encounter with a panda. I had the rare opportunity not just to see, but actually to "cuddle" a panda during a visit to the Chongqing Zoo back in 1993, as part of a tour organized by the Institution of Engineers Malaysia. That experience remains a cherished memory.

This time, I was pleasantly surprised to learn about another lesser-known species—the Red Panda. Unlike the iconic black-and-white Giant Panda we all know, the Red Panda resembles a raccoon and is much smaller in size. In Chinese, the two animals are referred to as the "Big Panda" and the "Small Panda," but beyond the name and their shared love for bamboo, they are entirely different species. Interestingly, the Red Panda is known to be more aggressive than its more docile counterpart, which explains why cuddling a Red Panda is certainly not on the list of things to do at the Research Base!

I don’t recall paying a hefty fee to hold a panda back in 1993, but times have changed. At the Chengdu Research Base, cuddling a panda now comes with a steep price tag of RMB 2,000. However, I can fully understand the reasoning behind such a high cost. Any lower fee would likely attract overwhelming crowds, placing immense stress on the animals and potentially endangering their health.

What impressed me most was the level of care and commitment shown by the Chinese authorities in their efforts to protect this precious species. The RMB 2,000 “donation” isn’t just a fee - it’s a meaningful contribution to the conservation and well-being of the Giant Panda. For true panda lovers, it’s a small price to pay to support the survival of one of the world’s most beloved animals.

Red Panda.

A tourist after paying RMB2,000 and donning full gear of sanitary protective clothing, cap and surgical mask would have the luxury of watching and examining the Panda at close range.

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I can't recall paying any major fee to cuddle a Panda in Chongqing Zoo in 1993. That was 23 years ago! 

Alma Mater

Some say Alma Mater is not applicable to the primary school one has attended. They contend that Alma Mater is normally reserved for university or a college. I hold slightly different view. I regard the impact of the first school one attend to be very significant. Hence, the declaration of Lok Yuk Primary School Jesselton which has been renamed Sekolah Junis Kebangsaan (Cina) Lok Yuk, Kota Kinabalu as my Alma Mater should be acceptable when viewed from this perspective.

I spent six years in this Chinese primary school from 1958 to 1963. Since then, fifty over years has passed. Today, I can still vividly remember all my primary school teachers and most of the incidences both happy and sad that happened during those formative years. That part of the brain that stores those information surprisingly is intact compared to another part of the brain that stores recent events. Recent events, names of people just don't stick well in the cerebral cortex these days!

I could not remember exactly the last time I attended an official function of this school. Definitely, it was a very long time ago. I did visit the school many times in the last twenty years or so. Those were occasions when I acted as the Consulting Engineer for the construction of the two of the three building blocks of the school. When the School Management Board held the Official Opening Ceremony for the last and most recently completed school block - the New School Canteen and Multi-Purpose School Block, I was invited but I could not attend that function for reason I now can not remember.

Since early this year, the school has a new management board and its first project is the widening of the main entrance access road. This time, I was able to attend the ground breaking ceremony officiated by the Bishop of the Basel Christian Church Malaysia.

I was early for the function scheduled at 8.00am on 18 October 2016. I was asked to join a group of board members and other dignitaries who also came early and were seated in the school canteen. I recognized practically all except a young lady seated in front of me. For a split second, I thought the face looked familiar but I immediately stopped trying to recall. I was told by the Senior Pastor of BCCM KK (C) sitting next to me that she is the chairperson of the PTA of the school after I asked him for her identity. Suddenly, she looked at me and said,

"Did you stay in Taman Foh Sang before?". That question immediately triggered my memory. I suddenly remembered the Shim family who lived exactly across the street opposite my house. I was then staying in a Semi-D house, a government rented quarter when I was with JKR. Before she finished the word "Ger...", I could instantly finished saying her name "Geraldine" for her.

That year was 1983, almost 33 years ago when she came over to my house with her younger brother to attend Serene's and Sam's joint birthday celebration. She was probably 8 or 9 then.

When the name Geraldine was resonating in my ears, I was in no doubt that kids do remember faces, better than we think and imagine.

We had quite a long chat to update ourselves of events spanning over 33 years. Her eldest kid is in Form 1 in Tshung Tshin while her second kid in Primary 2 in this primary school. That explained her role in the PTA. Her only reservation is her lack of Chinese language proficiency as she was educated in BM/English medium schools. I was certain and assured her that she would be more than capable of handling this role.

I was glad the school management took another step to upgrade and improve the school. I was more pleased to realize that people grow and excel and move to be your equals and peers! I was reminded to never disregard or ignore people no matter how small or insignificant they are. You may never imagine that someday, somewhere, he may just turn out to be your peer or even your superior and best of all your lucky star.

Group photo after the ceremony.

December 1983 in Taman Foh Sang. 
Standing at back row middle is Geraldine.

Kelantan, a Paradox

These days, besides 1MDB, the other most talked about word is probably Hudud. Whenever we hear or read about Hudud, we think of Kelantan. This is because Kelantan or PAS has been relentless in pursuing the implementation of Hudud. To be more precise, it is PAS' Hadi Awang of Kelantan who is obsessed about this rather than Kelantanese perse.

Before 11 October 2016, I could not say much about Kelantan because I have never been there before that. But after spending almost three days in Kelantan, I do have a better idea of this so-called Islamic heart land of Malaysia.

Other than the constant blaring of Azam prayers every now and then and the predominant Muslim population, there is little difference between Kota Bharu and any other West Malaysian towns. Occasionally, one can see a few women donning the niqab. Yet, they are the minority rather than the majority. In Kota Bharu, women appear to be in the forefront dominating most business premises, outlets and counters. Most stores in Siti Khadijah Market are manned by women as I observed.

After crisscrossing Kelantan, it appears to me that Kelantan is more culturally and religiously diverse than what it has been portrayed.

Thai or Siamese influence is particularly strong in the northern part of Kelantan. In some locations, one may feel like visiting Thailand or part of China rather than an Islamic state.

In Rantau Panjang, a town close to Thai border, the local mosque design looks more like a Chinese museum rather than the traditional Arab dome-shaped roof structure that we are used to.

Food wise, one can savor typical Kelantanese food, Thai and Chinese food. There is no shortage of Chinese food if one knows where to look for them. We particularly enjoyed Khau Jam which is the equivalence of Nasi Kerabu but of Thai origin. The rice is cooked in a variety of herbs and leaves and is served with the same accompaniments and topped with chilli paste and fish crackers, a must for all Kelantanese dishes.

According to local Chinese I talked to, pork is openly sold in public markets and in full view of the Muslim!

After seeing Kelantan first hand, the question remains. What is the real agenda for Hudud?

 

A building complex  in Rantau Panjang which is a mosque
looks more like a Chinese temple than the traditional mosque
design that we are used to.

Siti Khatijah Market.

Khau Jam of Kedai Kopi dan Makanan U-Lang Corner.

Chicken grilled by coconut husks fire and Tong Fen Prawn

Temple of Siamese design in Kelantan.

Pulai, Gua Musang in Kelantan

Our round trip driving tour to Terengganu and Kelantan covered a total distance of some 1,350 Km. We passed through Pahang and stopped for our first break in Bentong before proceeding to Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Centre to look at the elephants.

We spent a night at Cukai (now renamed Kemaman) which was our first stop in Terengganu. From Cukai, we took the coastal road passing through Kerteh, Paka, Dungun, Marang and then to Kuala Terengganu. After two nights in Terengganu, we moved on to Kota Bharu in Kelantan. The trip ended after two days stay in Kota Bharu.

Since the distance from Kota Bharu to KL is 440 Km which could be too demanding to drive at one go, we decided to take a break and spend a night in Gua Musang. From Kota Bharu to Gua Musang, we also took a detour to Rantau Panjang, a border town at the Thai border at the northern boundary of Kelantan.

As it turned out, my greatest surprise was Gua Musang, a name synonymous with Tengku Razaleigh Hamzah, the MP for Gua Musang. This is because of Tengku Razaleigh long history as an MP for Gua Musang. He is the incumbent MP since 1986, his 7th term since he won in the 7th Parliamentary Election in 1986.

When I asked the Inn Keeper in Gua Musang for interesting places to visit, without hesitation, he recommended a little town called Pulai, 14 Km away.

Pulai, tucked away in the middle of Malaya Penisular and next to a small river Sungai Galas is a Chinese settlement. According to the chap I had a lengthy chat with, Chinese in Pulai is 99.9% Hakka. Their Hakka accent as I discovered first hand is identical to the spoken Hakka in Sabah. The Hakka in Sabah and the Hakka in Pulai all came from the same villages in mainland China!

As told, the Chinese Hakka came to Pulai from the period of the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1662) in the reign of Emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty (1796 - 1820). This Chinese settlement is said to be at least 600 years old. The chap I talked to claimed to be the 7th generation resident. Assuming 30 years per generation, his ancestors would probably first set foot on Pulai some 200 years ago.

Like all Chinese immigrants who chose to settle in new found land, they made their way deep inland by boats along rivers. One could imagine how the first settlers set sail from the river mouth of Kelantan River and moved upstream to Galas River until Pulai. These immigrants came here for gold! This story has many similarities to what my maternal grandfather went through when he went to work in Sungai Lembing Tin Mine (Read here).

Settlers in Pulai had had a fair share of traumatic lives. During the Malayan Communist Insurgency (1940 - 1960), all the Chinese were forced to relocate from Pulai and settled elsewhere. It was only until 1967 that they were allowed to come back. By then the only Chinese Temple built in the 1940's had collapsed. This was then rebuilt from scratch.

The Chinese Temple called the Shui Yue Temple (or Swee Nyet Temple in Hakka) is now declared by the Government as a historical building. The Government allocated RM200,000 in 2007 to help in the restoration work. Lives of the local residents of this community literally centre around this Temple. The Temple Committee organizes annual and seasonal events to cater for the religious and social needs of the people. All communal meals are prepared and cooked in the Temple premise. However, as the chap claimed, no woman has been allowed into the Temple kitchen as it is forbidden by tradition. Hence the foods are all cooked by men! But this tradition is in for change. There is plan to build a new kitchen that permits women to cook!

Chinese here are mostly rubber estate owners or they work in the oil palms plantations nearby. The Chinese hardly do the actual rubber tapping these days but leave that to the Thais workers whom they employ.

The only Chinese Primary School.

Residents gathered to commemorate the ground breaking
ceremony to rebuild the collapsed Temple in May 1967

Much of the interior and exterior finishes and ornamental works of the restored Temple were done by craftsmen in China. They were then shipped and transported here for installation.

Ornamental carvings of Guan Gong and Chang Fei on main entrance doors.

7th generation Chinese Hakka who is a committee member
of the Temple.

There are not many choices of good Chinese food in Gua Musang. Our Inn Keeper was very obliging to tell us where to have good Chinese food. True to his recommendation, Kedai Makan 888 proved to be able to come up with good and tasty dishes.

Another interesting feature among the Chinese businessmen and traders is their preference to choose a number for their outlets or eateries! You will find signboards with 888, 333, 138 and so on. Choosing phonetically nice sounding numbers for business premises and cars seems to be an obsession of Chinese business people in Malaysia!

Leshan Giant Buddha, China

Have you ever wondered what a single person is capable of achieving? A visit to the Leshan Giant Buddha might just expand your perspective and offer a glimpse into the extraordinary heights of human determination, devotion, and ingenuity.

I was deeply moved by the story our tour guide shared about the origins of this colossal statue. It began with a monk named Haitong, who lived during the Tang Dynasty. Saddened by the frequent shipwrecks and loss of lives caused by the violent waters at the confluence of three rivers - the Min River, Qingyi River, and Dadu River - Haitong was inspired to carve a massive Buddha into the cliff face, facing the turbulent waters. His hope was that the serene presence of the Buddha would calm the river currents and protect those who navigated them. Construction began in 713 AD.

Legend has it that when corrupt local officials tried to siphon funds from the donations Haitong had painstakingly collected, he refused. In a dramatic act of defiance, he is said to have proclaimed that they could take his eyeball but not a single coin meant for the Buddha. When challenged, he reportedly gouged out one of his eyes and offered it to the officials - who, utterly shaken, fled and never returned. Inspired by his sincerity and unwavering commitment, more donations poured in.

Sadly, Haitong passed away before the statue was completed. However, two of his devoted disciples carried on the work, and the project was eventually completed in 803 AD by the local governor—a full 90 years after it first began.

The Leshan Giant Buddha stands at an awe-inspiring 71m high. Its head alone measures 14.7m long and 10m wide, with 1,021 intricately carved hair buns. It remains the tallest Buddha statue in the world, towering 18m higher than the Bamiyan Buddhas in Afghanistan, which were tragically destroyed by the Taliban in March 2001.

Ironically - and impressively - the construction of the statue had an unintended yet welcome effect. The massive amount of rock carved out and dumped into the river below is believed to have altered the river currents, calming the turbulent waters and making the passage safer for vessels - just as Haitong had hoped.

In ancient times, a towering 13-story wooden pavilion was built to shield the statue from the elements. Unfortunately, it was destroyed during the Mongol invasions at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. Since then, the Buddha has been exposed to rain and sun, yet it continues to endure. A testament to the engineering skills of the time, the statue features a sophisticated drainage system carved directly into its body. Hidden channels and gutters still function today, helping to prevent erosion by diverting rainwater away from the stone surface.

Most tourists experience the statue by taking a boat ride from a nearby jetty. These boats typically spend just five to ten minutes in front of the Buddha - barely enough time to capture a few photos before being ushered along. With such a short window, it's no surprise that everyone scrambles to take as many shots as possible.

For those with more time and stamina, a more immersive experience awaits. Visitors can opt to be driven to the top of the mountain, where they join a winding queue to descend the cliffside path to the base of the statue. During peak seasons, the wait time can stretch to two or even three hours - but the close-up view of the Buddha's immense form is said to be well worth the effort.

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A few years ago, a fascinating natural discovery drew new attention to the area surrounding the Leshan Giant Buddha. It was observed that when viewed from a distance, the three mountains behind the statue - Wuyou Mountain, Lingyun Mountain, and Guicheng Mountain -collectively resemble the form of a sleeping Buddha. This remarkable alignment was soon promoted as the "Giant Sleeping Buddha."

In this natural formation, Wuyou Mountain represents the Buddha’s head, Lingyun Mountain forms the body, and Guicheng Mountain represents the feet. Stretching across an estimated 4,000m from north to south, with the head facing north, this sleeping figure appears serene and majestic, as if carved by nature itself. The discovery has added yet another layer of wonder to the already spiritually and culturally rich landscape of Leshan.

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The long queue is clearly visible in long winding staircase from the top to the base.

Abstracted from 
http://www.chinadiscovery.com/sichuan/leshan/
leshan-giant-buddha.html

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Bamiyan Buddha before and after the destruction. 
Abstracted from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Buddhas_of_Bamiyan#/media/

File:Taller_Buddha_of_Bamiyan_
before_and_after_destruction.jpg

Huanglong, Sicuan, China

Tourists who come to visit Jiuzhaigou most probably will do a detour to visit Huanglong as well. In the past, tourists had to take long distance buses to come to Jiuzhaigou from Chengdu. It is an 8-hour road trip. With the completion of Jiuzhai-Huanglong Airport in 2003, the flight time is only one hour.

Jiuzhai Huanglong Airport built at an elevation of +3,448m AMSL (11,310 ft) is one of the high altitude airports in the world. According to our tour guide, many flights are frequently delayed because of bad weather. Our flight on 13 September 2016 landed on schedule.

The initial stretch of the road from the airport to Huanglong is downhill and winding until it reaches a town at the valley. From then on, the road ascends uphill in a zigzag winding manner until the peak at just over +4,000m AMSL. It then descends downhill all the way to Huanglong. The view along the drive was spectacular!

The landscape and geology of Huanglong is markedly different from Jiuzhaigou. Over millions of years, the glacial effect, tufa water and climate condition created this travertine landscape in Huanglong. Travertine is a form of sedimentary rock, formed by the precipitation of carbonate minerals from solution in ground and surface water and or geothermally heated hot spring. Travertine often has a fibrous or concentric appearance and exist in white, tan, cream-coloured and even rusty varieties.

Zig-Zag winding road with multiple hair pins to Huanglong

Guest Welcome Pond at elevation 3,230m AMSL 

Guest Welcome Pond

Guest Welcome Pond at elevation 3,230m AMSL

Marvelous Flying Waterfall at
 Elevation 3,245m AMSL

Washing Cave at elevation  3,280m AMSL

Lianyan Pond at elevation 3,251m AMSL

Lianyan Pond at elevation 3,251m AMSL

Flying Waterfall on Lotus Platform at elevation
 3,260m AMS - a good example of travertine
 in rusty colour.

Golden Sand Pavement at elevation 3,305m AMSL

Bonsai Pond at elevation 3,320m AMSL

Bonsai Pond at elevation 3,320m AMSL

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Unfortunately, we were not given enough time to climb to the very top at +3,576m AMSL where the Multi-Colour Pond is situated. There are 693 ponds in this cluster of ponds.