Southwest of Johor

Our tour along the southwest coast of Johor with my in-laws began in Batu Pahat and concluded at the southernmost tip of west Johor, Tanjung Piai.

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Our first stop was Pantai Minyak Beku, where we visited the historic Batu Pahat Well. According to local accounts, this well was dug in the 15th century by invading Siamese soldiers under the command of Admiral Awi Di Chu, who were desperately searching for fresh water during their assault on the Malacca Sultanate. Their campaign, however, was thwarted by the brilliant defence led by Tun Perak, the famed Bendahara (chief minister) of Malacca.

It is believed that the name Batu Pahat, which literally means “chiselled stone”, originated from this very episode, when the Siamese troops are said to have chiselled into the rocky shoreline in their effort to obtain water. Today, the well stands not only as a relic of history but also as the symbolic root of Batu Pahat’s name and identity.

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Pontian Kecil

We stopped to try the much-publicized Pontian Wanton Mee at Kedai Heng Heng, a local favorite. The stall offers two distinct versions of the noodles - spicy and sweetish. The latter, to our surprise, achieves its “unique” flavor simply through the addition of tomato sauce, giving it a tangy-sweet twist that sets it apart from the usual Cantonese-style wanton mee.

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Kukup

The kereta boy in this town turned out to be quite a nuisance. We had barely stopped at a parking lot - less than 30 seconds - when he suddenly appeared and demanded RM7 for “parking fees.” Sensing the scam, we simply ignored him and drove away. From his appearance and mannerisms, it seemed likely he was just a drug addict using such tactics to fund his habit.

As for Kukup itself, there is honestly not much to do. Once a traditional fishing village, most of the locals have since abandoned their livelihood at sea and shifted into tourism-related businesses. Over the years, numerous so-called “resorts” and rumah tumpangan have mushroomed in what used to be mangrove swamp. A typical “room,” priced at an eye-watering RM1,200 per night, is hardly luxurious - it usually consists of a cramped space fitted with three bunk beds to squeeze in about 10 people. Clearly, the rates only make sense if one comes in a large group of eight to ten.

The standard day tour package is also rather underwhelming. It revolves mainly around endless rounds of makan (eating), with the occasional boat trip included for visitors to view a kelong (offshore fish farm) and gawk at a few caged fishes. Beyond that, Kukup offers little to excite the average traveller.

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Tangjung Piai

Tanjung Piai, part of the Johor National Park network, is located at the southernmost tip of mainland Asia. It is recognised as one of the largest coastal mangrove swamps in the world and is home to a fascinating diversity of flora and fauna. Visitors are often told to keep an eye out for the unique wildlife that thrives here - mudskippers, cockles, crabs, horseshoe crabs, macaques, and monitor lizards are among the most commonly spotted.

At first, we were hesitant about venturing all the way to the tip. The park warden had mentioned that it required a walk of over one kilometre, and we wondered if it was worth the effort. But since we had come this far, we decided we might as well give it a go and “sweat it out.” In the end, the distance was just a 1.2 km stroll along a shaded boardwalk, which turned out to be easy, pleasant, and - if I may borrow a Cantonese phrase - sup sup sui (a breeze).

Reaching the southernmost point of mainland Asia felt surprisingly rewarding. From the lookout, we could see Singapore across the horizon, while long lines of ships lay anchored offshore, patiently waiting their turn to berth at the busy port. It was a quiet yet striking reminder of how this corner of mangrove wilderness sits right beside one of the world’s busiest maritime routes.