Manzhouli, Inner Mongolia

The farthest point of our journey took us to the northwestern frontier of Inner Mongolia—Manzhouli, a city that lies right on the border with Russia.

Our itinerary included an unusual excursion to a remote outpost along the Inner Mongolia–Russia border, marked by a high chain-linked fence that serves as the official dividing line between the two nations. The excursion began with a short ride in a pickup truck to a small river. After crossing a narrow wooden bridge, we continued on foot along a timber-decked boardwalk laid across an open field. The short walk ended at another small river, where we boarded a tiny boat. After a brief 10-minute ride, we disembarked onto a deserted patch of land, overgrown with reeds and small trees.

There, right next to the imposing border fence, stood a lone banner that read: “You have reached the border. Do not attempt to cross.” That was it. No border post, no town, no shops - just a quiet, uninhabited no man's land. I found the whole experience somewhat bizarre. It felt more like a symbolic gesture than a meaningful stop - an excursion to nowhere.

It made me wonder: Couldn’t China and Russia take a page from Thailand and Myanmar? At the Golden Triangle, they’ve developed vibrant cross-border towns with shopping and food outlets that give tourists a reason to visit the border area. A bit of thoughtful development could turn this lonely frontier into something far more engaging for travelers (Read here).

This outpost at the China side is an equivalence of the 

fire tower of the Great Wall.

************************************************

Manzhouli can best be described as a City of Light. The dazzling nightscape is no accident - it’s the result of a well-executed strategy by the local authorities. In a bold and imaginative move, the city funded the installation of lighting systems on the exteriors of buildings throughout the town. Even more impressively, the local government continues to cover the electricity bills for these decorative lights. It’s a brilliant initiative that has transformed the city into a glowing spectacle each evening, drawing visitors from near and far.

But Manzhouli’s appeal doesn’t stop at its luminous skyline. One of its other major attractions is the Russian Doll Theme Park, also known as the Matryoshka Doll Square. Featuring towering, colorful replicas of traditional Russian nesting dolls, the park offers a quirky and visually striking experience. During the peak season, it reportedly welcomes up to 20,000 visitors a day - a testament to its popularity and the city's creative approach to tourism.

Well lighted up city.

Lighted up Russian Doll Playground Theme Park.

Lighted up Russian Doll Playground Theme Park.

It was quite clear that our tour company chose the more budget-friendly option by skipping actual entry into the Russian Doll Theme Park - ostensibly due to the high entrance fee. Instead, they took the shortcut of stopping the tour bus just outside the park, allowing us only a brief photo opportunity from a distance. It felt like a missed opportunity, especially given the park's visual appeal and popularity. One couldn't help but feel a little shortchanged.

Russian influence is evident just by looking at the 

many buildings in Manzhouli.

Aershan Nature Forest Park, Inner Mongolia

From Zhalantun, our journey continued southwest to the Aershan Nature Forest Reserve, an expansive protected area spanning over 100,000 hectares. Also known as Aershan National Geopark, this remarkable region is famed for its dramatic volcanic landscapes, dense forests, mountaintop crater lakes, winding rivers, and sweeping grasslands.

The park is well-developed for tourism, with thoughtfully constructed timber-decked boardwalks and walking paths that make exploring the natural surroundings both easy and enjoyable.

Our first stop within the park was Dujuan Lake, a serene volcanic crater lake. The name Dujuan translates to azalea - a flower beloved in China for its vibrant spring blossoms. The lake is said to be ringed with blooming azaleas during the spring season, creating a breathtaking sight. Sadly, during our visit, there was no sign of the famed flowers - perhaps we had arrived just a little too late in the season.

Solidified volcanic lava are aplenty in Dujuan Lake.

The park is home to more than 90 species of wildlife, offering a rich and diverse ecosystem. As we strolled along the boardwalk, we were delighted to spot a few playful squirrels darting among the trees - surprisingly friendly and seemingly unbothered by our presence. Their curious antics added a touch of charm to our walk through the forest.

The walk around Dujuan Lake became somewhat monotonous after a while, with the scenery offering little variation. However, our spirits were lifted - and our pace quickened - by the unintentionally comical translations on many of the signboards along the trail. The awkward phrasing and humorous mistranslations provided unexpected entertainment, adding a lighthearted twist to an otherwise uneventful stroll.

*************************************************

After our visit to Dujuan Lake, we were taken to another part of the park for a forest trek. The trail, which ran alongside the gently meandering Halaha River, was especially scenic. Surrounded by lush greenery and the soothing sound of flowing water, the walk offered a refreshing change of pace and a deeper immersion into the park’s natural beauty.

*************************************************

Our visit to the park concluded at Tianchi, also known as the Heavenly Lake - a breathtaking mountaintop crater lake. Reaching it, however, was no easy feat. This final leg of the journey proved to be the most physically demanding, requiring us to climb 998 steps up and then descend another 768 steps on the way down.

During our visit, the entire landscape was awash in shades of green, creating a tranquil and refreshing atmosphere. However, we were told that the scenery transforms dramatically with the seasons. In autumn, the foliage of the surrounding trees and shrubs bursts into brilliant hues of gold and red, casting a warm glow over the lake’s surface. By winter, the lake freezes into a natural skating rink, while the surrounding area becomes a snowy wonderland blanketed in pristine white.

Part of Tianchi.

Spectacular view of the Tianchizhen or Tianchi City as 

we descended the hill.

Zhalong Nature Reserve

The following morning after our arrival to Qiqihar from Harbin, we visited Zhalong Nature Reserve in Heilongjiang. The huge 2,100 sq. km freshwater marshland is the major migratory route for birds migrating from the Arctic to Southeast Asia. Within the reserve, a large flock of red-crowned cranes is held in captivity for conservation purpose.

Like all the visitors, we came to see the massive reed marshland and the red-crowned cranes. Twice a day, tourists come to see the feeding of the cranes by the park rangers. We came for the 11.00am session which is said to be better because the birds are more energetic. It was quite a "show" to see the cranes being led out from captivity and ushered to fly over the spectators before these birds settled by the pond for their feed.

Nothing goes to waste in China. Every year, reeds in the marshland are demarcated into zones and opened to contractors for bidding. Successful bidders would then harvest the reeds and sell them to paper mills. This is most suitable for the making of Chinese painting paper.

Red-crowned crane is highly regarded in China. It is also called Japanese Crane and Fairly Crane. These birds have an average life span of 30-40 years with some living to 70 years in captivity. To the Chinese, it is a symbol of luck, fidelity, longevity and immortality. China has considered naming it as their national bird but decided otherwise because of its Latin translation as "Japanese Crane". Any attempt by China to name it as their national bird will likely provoke strong resistance from Japan and Korea.

Red-crowned crane used as logo for Japan Airlines.

Inner Mongolia

We hadn’t actually planned to take another tour to China this year. One major deterrent was the near inevitability of being taken to so-called “slaughterhouses” - shopping outlets disguised as tourist stops, where group tour participants are subjected to relentless and often manipulative sales tactics. The goal, of course, is to pressure tourists into parting with their money. The mere thought of enduring these unpleasant experiences again was enough to extinguish any enthusiasm for signing up for another China tour.

But when the idea of visiting Inner Mongolia was brought up, something stirred. The prospect of exploring the exotic and enchanting Mongolian grasslands rekindled our interest. For someone like me, who grew up humming the nostalgic tune “Night on the Prairie,” the romantic allure of the open steppe was simply too irresistible. And so, we decided to give China one more chance.

The tour began with a red-eye flight on Air China, departing Singapore for Beijing at 00:15 on 25 June 2017 - not exactly the most appealing time to start a journey. The flight to Beijing took just over 5.5 hours, followed by another 2-hour domestic flight to Harbin. After a short lunch break, we boarded a high-speed train at Harbin Railway Station, bound for Qiqihar.

Boarding the train was pure chaos. As soon as the gates opened, passengers surged forward in long, jostling lines. Within moments, we lost sight of our tour group in the crush of bodies. Disoriented and unsure of where to go, we turned to the railway staff for help - but to no avail. Fortunately, a few kind strangers came to our rescue and pointed us in the right direction. We made it to the platform with just 30 seconds to spare before the train arrived. I shudder to think what would have happened if we’d missed it.

Despite the shaky start, the journey offered one unexpected benefit: it taught us more about the geography of northern and northwestern China. For years, I’d often confused Inner Mongolia with the country of Mongolia - and I suspect I’m not alone. Inner Mongolia is, in fact, an autonomous region within China, whereas Mongolia is a separate nation that lies to the northwest. The northern frontier of Inner Mongolia even shares a border with Russia, adding to the region’s unique geopolitical and cultural character.

The highlight of our tour was supposed to be the famed Mongolian Grassland in Hulunbuir - a sweeping, romantic landscape that had long captured our imagination. However, what we encountered fell far short of expectations. Far from the vast, untamed prairie depicted in the promotional material, we were brought instead to a manufactured settlement conveniently located just off the highway, clearly designed to cater to passing tourists.

A handful of yurts had been erected within a fenced compound, but the one we were shown wasn’t even a traditional dwelling - it had been repurposed as a small canteen for serving tourists. Inside, it was completely bare except for a few tables and stools, lacking any cultural or historical ambiance. Outside, several horses were tethered for tourist rides, and a go-kart ring had been set up in the open field, presumably to satisfy thrill-seekers. The entire setup felt more like a mini adventure park than the authentic Mongolian grassland experience we had envisioned.

Naturally, most members of our tour group were disappointed. Many of us had hoped to witness a genuine Mongolian pastoral scene - herds of sheep and horses grazing freely, yurts dotting the open plains, and nomadic families living in harmony with nature. Instead, we were left wondering whether this letdown was the doing of the Malaysian tour company or their Chinese counterparts. Somewhere along the line, something had clearly been lost in translation - or sacrificed for convenience.

Still, I tried to remain positive. If nothing else, I let my imagination fill in the gaps, painting in the rolling plains and wandering herds that we didn’t get to see. Sometimes, the mind can conjure what reality fails to deliver.

Mongolian costume offered to tourists for photo taking. 

**************************************************

In the end, it was the scenic drive - winding alongside vast expanses of open grassland and an endless panorama of rolling green hills - that helped redeem the underwhelming experience at the so-called Mongolian Grassland. The breathtaking natural beauty of the landscape, untouched and limitless, offered a quiet consolation and reminded us of the wild, untamed charm we had hoped to find.