Huangyau Old Village, Hezhou

A lot of tourist sites were made famous by deliberate promotional efforts of the government or the tourism authority. Some were however made famous by unintentional event or crisis. For example, many visitors now flocked to Fukushima, Japan to see the after effects of the March 2011 tsunami. On the way to catch the plane from Guilin to Guangzhou, we visited a place made famous by a Chinese TV drama series called "Plain Love"- 茶是故乡浓 or translated as "Tea in the Hometown is the Best". This is the Huangyao Old Village in Hezhou.

Huangyao Village could be traced back to nearly 1,000 years ago. It was first built in the Song Dynasty, refurbished in Wanli Period of Ming Dynasty, and boomed during Qianlong Period of Qing Dynasty. Owing to the fact that most people here were surnamed Huang and Yao, thus it was called Huangyao.

Huangyao lies at the lower reaches of Li River (Lijiang). It has long been called the “poetic land”. It abounds in limestone hills, streams, pavilions, ancestral temples and ancient trees.

All streets are inlaid with black stone slates. Most houses are 2-storey structures finished with tile roof. The building workmanship is exquisite and superb.

There are altogether more than 600 families in the village, spread over in eight streets. Most of their houses retain a Ming and Qing Dynasty style. The geographic location of Huangyao village is very special. Mountains surround the village on four sides, making the place easy to defend and difficult to invade. Transportation here is very inconvenient. As a result, the village remains half-isolated. That's why a lot of old houses and antiques are well preserved.

Our lady tour members went crazy when confronted with rows and rows of urns containing all kinds of pickles! As far as taofufah and guilinggao (turtle jelly), I feel our Malaysia's versions are still better.

Most houses here are now supplied with piped water. Many residents however still prefer to use the well water. Water in the trough nearest to the incoming source is for drinking, next is for washing of vege, rice and food stuff. Water closest to the outlet is for washing of clothes. Surprisingly, the water was warm, around 20 degrees C when the air temperature was 13 degrees C!

Picturesque scenery.

World Largest Natural Theater

I still remember watching Les Miserables in Singapore back in 1996. I was completely enthralled by the seamless stage transitions, dazzling lights, and powerful sound effects. It felt like a benchmark of theatrical excellence.

But then the Chinese took theater a giant step further by creating the world’s largest natural open-air theater in Yangshuo (陽朔), Guilin, specially built for the breathtaking performance of Impression Sanjie Liu. Unlike any traditional stage, this theater uses the Li River itself as its platform, framed by twelve mist-shrouded karst hills and the night sky. Mist, rain, moonlight, and the shimmering reflections on the river all merge into an ever-changing backdrop crafted entirely by nature.

The audience sits on terraces built across the river’s natural islands, surrounded by lush plants and vegetation. The valleys, the gentle hills, the flowing streams, and the cool evening breeze are all part of the immersive experience, blending with advanced lighting and sound to create a multi-dimensional spectacle. Even the changing seasons and shifting weather conditions bring their own unique effects, ensuring no two performances are ever quite the same.

The scale is equally impressive: the theater seats 3,700 spectators, with two shows staged nightly - an astonishing 7,400 visitors during peak seasons.

Behind this mega-production is none other than Zhang Yimou, the renowned choreographer and director best known for orchestrating the unforgettable opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympics. 

According to our tour guide, in the show’s early days, there was a rather controversial performance - one of the dancers appeared unclothed while “dancing on the moon.” This gimmick caused an unprecedented spike in binocular sales among local shops, but it also stirred discomfort among locals who found it culturally inappropriate. More critically, the distraction proved dangerous: boatmen, tasked with maneuvering in precise formations on the river, were so captivated that some missed their cues, lost balance, and even toppled into the water - one nearly drowning in the process! Unsurprisingly, that particular element was later removed.

Today, thanks to this spectacular creation, Yangshuo has become world-renowned. Impression Sanjie Liu is more than just a performance - it’s a fusion of nature, culture, and artistry that leaves audiences spellbound. Truly, this is a must-see if you ever find yourself in Yangshuo.

Translations that Tickle

For sure, I was entertained by the numerous ingenious translations found throughout the tour - in hotels, parks, public toilets, tourist spots etc.

Thus, a simple sign that reads in Chinese: "Beware: Slippery Floor!" takes on all kinds of interpretation. Since one could slip and fall on slippery floor - might as well "careful slip", right? Otherwise one should "carefully slide" and "be careful of landslide", should you slip.

The Chinese don't just remind you, but they do it warmly

Scenic Guilin

Like most tourists who chose to visit Guilin, we were drawn by its world-renowned landscapes, so often celebrated in photographs, paintings, and travel brochures. The natural beauty of this place has long been described as enchanting and almost otherworldly.

Throughout our trip, our local tour guide never failed to remind us of Guilin’s most iconic phrase: “桂林山水甲天下” - literally translated as “The scenery of Guilin is the finest under heaven.” This timeless line was first attributed to Wang Zhenggong (王正功), an upright and principled official who once served in the judicial department in Guilin during the Song Dynasty in the year 1201.

Known for his uncompromising honesty, Wang inevitably offended the wealthy and the powerful of his time. As a result, he was repeatedly reassigned to remote postings far from the capital. When he was finally transferred to Guilin at the age of 68, instead of feeling burdened by his exile, he was deeply moved and rejuvenated by the breathtaking scenery before him.

It is said that during a gathering with students, he composed a poem in which this famous phrase appeared - words that have since transcended centuries, becoming inseparable from Guilin’s identity and charm.

百嶂千峰古桂州，向来人物固难俦。

峨冠共应贤能诏，策足谁非道艺流。

经济才猷期远器，纵横礼乐对前旒。

三君八俊具乡秀，稳步天津最上头。

桂林山水甲天下，玉碧罗青意可参。

士气未饶军气振, 文场端似战场酣。

九关虎豹看勍敌，万里鵾鹏伫剧谈。

老眼摩挲顿增爽，诸君端是斗之南。

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Guilin means forest of osmanthus. The name Guilin came about when an old old time war lord first came to this place and noticed the abundance of osmanthus flower in this part of China.

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In Guilin, anywhere you go, any direction you turn, the sights of mountains and rivers are plentiful.

Li River (Lijiang)

As an engineer, I was greatly amazed to see buildings built high up at the peaks of mountains. Mind you, builders in those days did not have the luxury of machinery and equipment that we have nowadays.

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There are four lakes in the city of Guilin. They are fed by Li River. The 4 lakes are Mulong (Wooden Dragon) Lake, Gui (Sweet Scented Osmanthus) Lake, Rong (Banyan) Lake and Shan (Fir) lake. All the lakes are inter-connected.

日月双塔 Sun & Moon Twin Pagodas in one of the four lakes in Guilin

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