Hemu Village, Xinjiang

Upon arriving at Hemu Village, we were immediately struck by the overwhelming number of people. The village felt crowded and overly commercialized, with rows of newly built guesthouses and lodges clearly catering to the influx of tourists. What was once a quiet, remote settlement now seemed transformed into a bustling tourist hotspot, its rustic charm partially obscured by modern development.

We learned that Hemu Village is home to the Tuva people - a small, distinctive ethnic group believed to be descendants of ancient Siberian nomads. Closely related to the Tuvans of southern Russia, the Tuva share cultural and linguistic ties with other Turkic-Mongolic peoples of Central Asia. Over the centuries, some Tuva groups migrated south into Mongolia and northern Xinjiang. It is believed that their ancestors arrived in the Hemu and Kanas region several hundred years ago - possibly during the Qing Dynasty or earlier - drawn by the promise of rich pastureland, isolation, and access to abundant hunting and fishing grounds. The Hemu River valley, with its remote location and fertile environment, proved an ideal refuge.

The Tuva language, a Turkic tongue, is still spoken among the elders, while younger generations increasingly use Mandarin. Traditionally, the Tuva were semi-nomadic herders who relied on their livestock - reindeer, sheep, and horses - for sustenance. Even today, horses remain deeply embedded in village life, used for transportation, herding, and ceremonial purposes.

Spiritual traditions here have endured as well. Shamanistic and animist beliefs persist, often interwoven with Tibetan Buddhist practices - reflecting the region’s long-standing role as a cultural and spiritual crossroads between Central Asia, Siberia, and Tibet.

Along the riverbank stood the Tuva’s traditional log homes, known as “Tuva houses.” Built from hand-hewn timber without the use of nails, these sturdy structures reflect centuries-old craftsmanship designed to withstand the harsh winters and biting winds of the Altai Mountains. Their weathered wooden walls speak to generations of resilience, isolation, and quiet connection to the land.

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As we walked further into the village, we noticed individuals tossing pieces of meat into the air to feed eagles circling above in the middle of the road. The majestic birds swooped and glided gracefully, diving down to snatch the food in midair - a fascinating yet slightly out-of-place spectacle in this setting.

Soon, we reached the bridge that lead to the base of a hill. We noticed this was a path that eventually lead to the viewing platform. There and then, we decided to attempt the climb and to get a panorama of the valley. 

Long, wooden decked walkway are provided that guide visitors up the hillside. The climb wasn’t too steep or strenuous - the broad timber path made the ascent rather easy and safe - even inviting pauses along the way to soak in the unfolding scenery. As we rose higher, the view gradually expanded: the rustic rooftops of Hemu far below, the meandering ribbon of the river, and the endless pastures reaching toward the distant Altai ranges.

At the summit, the view was breathtaking. To the west, the snow-dusted peaks of the Altai Mountains loomed in silence. To the south, the Hemu River wound its way gently through the valley. Below, the rooftops of the Tuva homes and the open pastures stretched as far as the eye could see. It felt as if time itself had paused to let us admire this untouched corner of the world.

We lingered for a long while on the deck, breathing in the crisp mountain air and letting the peacefulness of the moment sink in. It’s no wonder this place has remained sacred to the local Tuvans for generations.

Standing there, high above the valley, I felt grateful that such a place - and such a people - still exist in today’s fast-changing world.

At the signboard - translated to English - "Tribe in the Clouds".

That evening, we stayed in a hotel built in the midst of Hemu Village - 

Spectacular Landscape along Highway from Fuhai to Hemu Village, Xinjiang

After breakfast at Yilong Hotel in Fuhai, we set out for Hemu Village just before 9.00am, Day 10 on 01.06.2025. 

Shortly after departing Fuhai, we made a brief stop along a stretch of the road overlooking Ulungur Lake, where a row of roadside stalls had been set up. To our surprise, several of these stalls were openly displaying animal skins - including those of bears and wolves - hanging prominently for sale. The sight of these pelts, some of which appeared freshly prepared, offered a stark and unsettling reminder of the ongoing trade in wild animal products that persists in this remote part of Xinjiang.

Ulungur Lake.

Another unexpected “hazard” along the road from Fuhai to Hemu was the herds of camels that casually wandered across the highway, seemingly oblivious to the fast-moving vehicles. These majestic animals appeared entirely unfazed by traffic, creating sudden obstacles that required drivers to remain alert and ready to slow down at a moment’s notice.

As the journey continued, the landscape gradually opened up into vast, rolling grasslands stretching endlessly toward the horizon. Herds of sheep, cattle, and horses grazed freely under the watchful eyes of Kazakh herders tending their flocks from traditional yurts. These lush pastures are part of the greater Altay steppe region - a timeless pastoral scene that seemed untouched by modern life, offering a striking contrast to the arid deserts of southern Xinjiang.

As we continued northwest towards Hemu, the scenery began to change dramatically. The wide-open steppe gradually gave way to dense coniferous forests, where towering spruces and Siberian pines carpeted the slopes of the majestic Altay Mountains. Our guide mentioned that in late spring and summer, the meadows here come alive with vibrant wildflowers, adding bursts of color that brighten the already rich green landscape.

Further along the route, the snow-capped peaks of the Altay range appeared on the horizon, offering a breathtaking alpine panorama. The winding road meandered gracefully through valleys and alongside crystal-clear streams fed by glacial meltwater. Occasionally, we passed serene lakes and wide, open river plains that mirrored the sky above - a scene of pristine natural beauty rarely encountered elsewhere.

The final stretch towards Hemu was especially enchanting. The road cut through untouched forests and traced the gentle curves of the Hemu River. Soon, the quaint wooden houses of Hemu Village came into view, nestled in valley surrounded by verdant slopes and distant, snow-dusted peaks.

It is no wonder that many travelers - particularly domestic Chinese tourists - describe this route as reminiscent of Switzerland or the European Alps.

The region surrounding Hemu Village, Kanas Lake and the Altay Mountains has earned the nickname "The Alps of the Orient" (东方阿尔卑斯) in Chinese travel literature and promotional materials. It is said that in summer, the lush green pastures, roaming livestock, and charming wooden cabins of the Tuva and Kazakh peoples evoke scenes strongly reminiscent of the Swiss countryside. In autumn, the forests burst into brilliant shades of gold and fiery orange, capturing the crisp, vibrant beauty of an Alpine fall.

Tianchi, Tianshan Mountains

After several days immersed in historical and archaeological wonders, Day 9 (31.05.2025) brought a much-welcomed change of pace. Following our breakfast at the Hoi Tak Hotel in Urumqi, we set off towards Tianchi - or Heavenly Lake - nestled high in the majestic Tianshan Mountains. The promise of crisp mountain air, pristine nature, and alpine serenity felt like the perfect contrast to the dusty ruins and ancient cities that had filled the earlier part of our journey.

Upon reaching the base station of Tianchi, we transferred to a shuttle bus that would take us up to the lake itself. The 40-minute scenic ride slowly ascended through a breathtaking landscape of towering rocky cliffs, plunging valleys, and dense coniferous forests. Each twist and turn of the road offered new, dramatic vistas, heightening our anticipation of seeing this legendary lake with our own eyes.

Tianchi, meaning “Heavenly Lake” in Chinese, is an alpine jewel set at an elevation of 1,907m (6,257 feet) above sea level. It rests quietly within the Bogda Shan range - part of the greater Tianshan Mountains - a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its unparalleled natural beauty and ecological significance. The lake covers an area of approximately 4.9 Sq. Km and curves gracefully like a crescent moon. Its waters are fed year-round by glacial melt from the surrounding peaks, most notably Bogda Peak (博格达峰), the highest summit in eastern Tianshan, which soars to a majestic 5,445m (17,864 feet).

Once we reached the lakeside, we were presented with three activity options:

• Option 1: A leisurely boat cruise across the tranquil waters, offering sweeping views of the lake and its surrounding alpine scenery.

• Option 2: A refreshing trek along the lakeshore footpath, perfect for soaking in the crisp mountain air while admiring the landscape at a slower, thoughtful pace.

• Option 3: A cable car ride up Maya Mountain, promising an unforgettable panoramic view of the entire Tianshan range.

Practically, all members of our group opted for Option 3. But my wife and I chose Option 1, opting for the peaceful boat cruise to fully appreciate the stunning natural setting from the lake surface.

As the boat gently glided across the lake, the crystal-clear turquoise waters shimmered under the bright late-morning sun, perfectly mirroring the jagged, snow-dusted peaks and the thick spruce forests blanketing the steep mountain slopes. The cool, invigorating air was a welcome relief - a stark contrast to the dry, oppressive heat we had endured in Turpan and Urumqi just days earlier.

Along the shores, the alpine meadows were waking to spring, carpeted in fresh greens and sprinkled with the soft colors of newly blossoming wildflowers. The entire scene felt almost dreamlike, imbued with a quiet, mystical beauty. It became easy to understand why ancient Chinese legends revered this place as the sacred abode of Xi Wang Mu (西王母) - the Queen Mother of the West - a powerful Taoist goddess believed to dwell in this celestial paradise among the immortals.

As the boat glided along the lake, with the distant snow-capped peaks reflected in the shimmering waters, I couldn't help but be reminded of our visit to Lake Louise at the Canadian Rockies during our driving tour back in August 2017 (Read here). For a moment, it felt as if we had been transported back to that breathtaking alpine landscape.

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Once the boat reached the jetty at the western end of the lake, we decided to disembark and climb the long and steep staircase - said to have more than 800 step - to see the temple dedicated to Xi Wang Mu (西王母). The effort was rewarded by the spectacular panoramic vistas of Tianchi and the Tianshan range.

As I took in the surrounding landscape of Tianchi, my thought drifted back to another Tianchi I had visited in Inner Mongolia during June/July 2017 (Read here). The familiarity of the name stirred memories of that distant yet equally serene mountain lake.

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We strolled along the lakeside after the boat ride. We encountered other visitors - families, young and elderly couples. The weather could not have been more perfect - brilliant blue skies with just a few lazy clouds drifting by, casting fleeting shadows over the water. A soft breeze carried the scent of pine and fresh mountain grass, adding to the freshness of the day and lifting our spirits even further.

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Our visit to Tianchi left a deep and lasting impression. It was far more than mere sightseeing; it felt like a timeless pause - a rare opportunity to reconnect with the untouched beauty of nature. After days filled with the weight of history and human achievement, Tianchi offered something profoundly different: space to breathe, think, and simply be.

As we made our way back to the shuttle bus station that afternoon, I felt a quiet sense of gratitude for this unexpected highlight of the journey - a gentle reminder that amid all the legacies of civilization, nature’s quiet majesty still holds its own enduring, unmatched power.

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After lunch at Tianchi, we continued our journey westward, covering nearly 610Km to reach Fuhai County. Upon arrival, we checked into Yilong Hotel for an overnight stay.

Jiaohe Ruins, Turpan

After our morning visit to Tuyoq, we proceeded to another ancient site - Jiaohe, located about 10km west of Turpan. This archaeological wonder is often described as a 'cave-like city' because of its distinctive construction, where buildings were carved directly into the earth rather than built above ground.

Founded around the 2nd century BC during the Han Dynasty, Jiaohe (交河故城) once served as the capital of the ancient Gushi (or Jushi) Kingdom, a key state along the Silk Road. Uniquely, the city was carved directly into a narrow islet flanked by two deep river valleys, creating a naturally fortified settlement. Unlike most ancient cities, Jiaohe required no defensive walls - the steep cliffs surrounding it provided ample protection from invaders. The name "Jiaohe" literally means "where two rivers meet", referring to the rivers that shaped and protected this unique city.

Jiaohe is recognized as the largest, oldest, and best-preserved earthen city in the world. Its remarkably intact ruins reveal an entire cityscape sculpted from loess earth, including streets, residential houses, Buddhist stupas, temples, and workshops. Buddhism once thrived here, and the remains of several monasteries and stupas are still clearly visible today.

The city met its downfall in the 13th century when it was destroyed during the westward expansion of the Mongol Empire. After the devastation, Jiaohe was abandoned and left in ruins. Fortunately, the arid desert climate of the region helped preserve the site exceptionally well, allowing visitors to glimpse its ancient grandeur even today.

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Gazing at the barren, sun-scorched land of Jiaohe today, one can’t help but wonder how people in ancient times managed to survive in such a hostile, arid, and seemingly lifeless environment.

Yet, during its heyday - from the 2nd century BC to the 14th century AD - Jiaohe was surprisingly well-sustained. Despite the region’s extremely scarce rainfall, nearby rivers fed by snowmelt from the distant Tianshan Mountains provided a vital water source for drinking and irrigation. These rivers were the very lifeblood of the settlement.

More importantly, the ingenious Karez underground irrigation system - mentioned in an earlier blog post (Read here) - made agriculture possible. This ancient engineering marvel transported water beneath the desert floor, preventing evaporation and transforming barren soil into fertile fields where wheat, barley, melons, and grapes could thrive.

In addition to farming, the inhabitants raised goats, sheep, and likely camels, which supplied milk, meat, wool, and essential transport - crucial for a city situated along the Silk Road trade network.

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As we continued uphill through Jiaohe, we were led down a staircase into a walled, sunken chamber. Our guide explained that this was once a military post or garrison used by soldiers stationed in the ancient city.

These sunken rooms provided shade and concealment for guards tasked with monitoring the city’s entrances and other strategic points. Naturally cool and protected underground, the chamber also served as a storage space for weapons such as bows, arrows, spears, and swords.

In addition to its defensive functions, the space likely doubled as sleeping or resting quarters for soldiers on duty. Given Turpan’s extreme desert heat, these underground chambers offered a far more comfortable environment compared to above-ground barracks.

During times of siege or attack, soldiers could retreat into these fortified spaces to regroup, defend, or prepare for counteroffensives. The thick earthen walls and narrow entrances made the chamber highly resistant to enemy assault, adding another layer of protection to Jiaohe’s impressive defenses.

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Moving along, we were shown a series of dug cavities or small pit-like holes in the ground, which our guide speculated might have been burial sites for infants or young children. There is even a theory suggesting that child sacrifice may have been practiced here - possibly as a ritual to appease deities during times of drought or hardship in this harsh, arid region.

However, archaeologists and scholars have largely refuted these claims, citing a lack of conclusive evidence to support the idea of ritual sacrifice. Typically, to confirm such practices, researchers look for indicators such as cut marks on bones, associated ceremonial artifacts, or remnants of sacrificial altars - none of which have been definitively discovered at Jiaohe.

It is more widely accepted that these pits likely served as informal burial sites for infants who died of natural causes. In ancient times, infant mortality was high due to disease, malnutrition, and the lack of medical care.

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The scorching heat proved overwhelming, quickly draining our energy and dampening any desire to explore further. We decided to cut short our walk and make our way back to the comfort of the air-conditioned bus.

We departed immediately along highway G30, traversing the arid expanse of Gobi Desert on our westward journey to Urumqi, approximately 190Km away. By the time we arrived in Urumqui, it's just before 8.00pm. We then checked into our accommodation of the night, the Hoi Tak Hotel.