Thursday, October 09, 2025

Catherine Palace, St. Petersburg

The morning of Day 6 (17.09.2025) in Russia was spent in touring one of Russia's most splendid residences - the Catherine Palace, located in the town of Tsarskoye Selo (now Pushkin), about 25 km south of St. Petersburg.

Originally built in 1717 for Empress Catherine I, the wife of Peter the Great, the palace was later completely redesigned and expanded by their daughter, Empress Elizabeth I, in the mid-18th century. Elizabeth commissioned the Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli, who also designed the Winter Palace, to transform it into a grand Baroque residence worthy of imperial status.

The result was a dazzling 300-m-long façade painted in shades of sky blue and white, adorned with gilded stucco, sculptures, and columns. The lavish exterior is matched by equally extravagant interiors, highlighted by the Grand Hall (or Hall of Light) - an enormous ballroom with gilded mirrors, chandeliers, and elaborate frescoes covering the ceiling.

During the Second World War, the palace suffered immense damage when German forces occupied it, but extensive restoration work began soon after the war and continues to this day. Today, the Catherine Palace is part of the Tsarskoye Selo State Museum-Reserve, and it stands as one of the most visited cultural and historical sites in Russia.

Surrounded by lush formal gardens, ornamental ponds, and classical pavilions, the palace complex represents the height of imperial luxury and artistic achievement in 18th-century Russia - a vivid symbol of the opulence and grandeur of the Romanov era.

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The Grand Hall, or Hall of Light, is the most splendid interior of the Catherine Palace. Spanning about 1,000 sq. m. across the palace’s width, the hall was the setting for royal receptions, banquets, and glittering balls of the Russian court.

The room’s brilliance lies in its interplay of light and reflection. Rows of tall arched windows alternate with gilded mirrors, filling the hall with shimmering radiance. Elaborate gold carvings, crystal chandeliers, and a polished parquet floor add to its opulence. Above, the painted ceiling The Triumph of Russia by Giuseppe Valeriani glorifies the nation’s power through allegorical scenes.

Every detail of the Grand Hall was designed to awe guests and reflect the wealth and ambition of imperial Russia. Today, it remains one of the most breathtaking ceremonial spaces in Europe, admired for its harmony of architecture, light, and art - a timeless symbol of the splendor and sophistication that once defined the Russian Empire.
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Perhaps the most famous room in the palace is the Amber Room, often called the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” This chamber was decorated with panels of genuine amber, gold leaf, and mirrors. It was looted by the Nazis during World War II and disappeared, but a meticulous reconstruction was completed in 2003, restoring its breathtaking splendor.
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The magnificent ceiling paintings and exquisitely decorated walls left me in awe as I wandered through the countless halls and rooms of the palace. Every corner seemed to shimmer with artistry and grandeur, a breathtaking testament to the opulence of a bygone era.
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Equally impressive were the many dining halls designed for the royals and their distinguished guests. Each room reflected a different mood of grandeur and refinement, from the glittering elegance of the White State Dining Room to the stately charm of the Chevaliers’ Dining Room, and yet another lavish hall whose splendor lingered in memory. Together, they revealed the sheer opulence with which the Russian court celebrated even the simplest act of dining.
Chevaliers' (Cavalier) Dining Room.
White State (Formal) Dining Room. Used for more formal dinners (“evening meals”) by the Empress and her court.
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As we stepped out of the palace, we paused for a few photo shoots to capture its majestic exterior - one last memory before continuing our journey to the next adventure.

As I wandered through the grandeur of this palace, surrounded by gilded halls and glittering chandeliers, I couldn’t help but reflect on the fate of empires that once seemed eternal. The Russian Empire, like many great civilizations before it, stood in magnificence for nearly two centuries before collapsing in 1917. Though its downfall is often blamed on the extravagance and opulence of the imperial court, some claimed that the truth was far more complex. The immense wealth and privilege of the tsars and nobility stood in sharp contrast to the hardship and poverty endured by the peasants and working class. This deep divide bred resentment and unrest that simmered beneath the surface.

At the same time, mounting political repression, economic inequality, and crushing military defeats - especially during World War I - further eroded the empire’s foundations. Public faith in the monarchy faltered, and revolutionary fervor swept across the nation. By 1917, social upheaval, economic collapse, and disillusionment with Tsar Nicholas II brought the Romanov dynasty to its end.

Standing in these opulent rooms today, it’s easy to see how such grandeur, once a symbol of imperial power, also revealed a growing distance between the rulers and the ruled. In the end, it was not only luxury that doomed the empire, but the widening gulf of inequality, war, and political paralysis that sealed its fate.

Wednesday, October 08, 2025

Russian Folk Dance

The evening following our tour of Peterhof was spent at the Nikolaevsky Palace, where we attended the renowned “Feel Yourself Russian” folk dance show. This live performance offered a lively and colorful window into Russia’s rich cultural heritage. Through vibrant choreography, authentic music, and dazzlingly embroidered costumes, the show brought to life the spirit, traditions, and diversity of the Russian people. Performed by highly skilled professional ensembles, the dances traced their origins to ancient peasant rituals and festive village celebrations, blending influences from across the vast Russian landscape.

The performance, lasting about one and a half to two hours, featured a variety of traditional dances, including the Khorovod, Kalinka, Barynya, and the vigorous Cossack dance. Each number was accompanied by live music played on traditional folk instruments such as the balalaika, gusli, and bayan, immersing the audience in an atmosphere of infectious rhythm and energy.

The dancers’ costumes were breathtaking - a vivid display of Russia’s regional artistry. Brightly colored dresses, fur hats, and elaborately embroidered shirts showcased the pride and craftsmanship of rural communities. Each performance told a story - of village life, romance, humor, and heroism  - revealing the warmth, resilience, and joy of the Russian people.

Live Band.
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Seated in the very front row, I had anticipated the possibility of being invited to join the performers on stage — and indeed, it happened not once, but twice. During the second round, a few other members of our tour group also joined in, adding to the lively spirit of the moment.
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During the intermission, we were pleasantly surprised to be invited for local snacks and champagne, a gesture of hospitality that perfectly complemented the festive spirit of the evening.
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The unexpected participation with the performers on stage brought a personal and delightful dimension to the evening, transforming it from a mere performance into a shared celebration. It became one of the most memorable and immersive cultural experiences I had in St. Petersburg.

Tuesday, October 07, 2025

Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg

We were taken to another iconic landmark just by Griboyedov Canal in the afternoon of 16.09.2025 - the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg. This Church stands as one of Russia’s most striking and historically significant landmarks. Its unusual name is deeply rooted in a tragic event in Russian history - the assassination of Tsar Alexander II. The phrase “on Spilled Blood” refers quite literally to the blood shed by the tsar on the very site where the church was later constructed.

On 01.03.1881, Tsar Alexander II was fatally wounded by a bomb thrown by a revolutionary along the Griboyedov Canal, then known as the Catherine Canal. The attack marked the end of a ruler who had enacted significant reforms, including the emancipation of the serfs. To commemorate his father’s death and to honor his memory, Tsar Alexander III commissioned a church to be built precisely where the assassination occurred. During construction, part of the cobblestone pavement where Alexander II’s blood had fallen was preserved inside the church as a sacred memorial.

Completed in 1907, the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood serves both as a religious monument and a national memorial. Its architecture differs markedly from the surrounding neoclassical buildings of St. Petersburg. Instead, it draws inspiration from medieval Russian churches, particularly St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, with its colorful onion domes, elaborate mosaics, and ornate details.

Thus, the name “Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood” symbolizes both sacrifice and remembrance - a tribute to a fallen tsar and a reflection of Russia’s turbulent history. Today, the church stands not only as a masterpiece of art and architecture but also as a poignant reminder of the cost of reform and the enduring power of faith and memory.

Left photo above is said to be the very spot where Tsar Alexander II was fatally wounded in 1881. This is the Shrine of the Assassination Site inside the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood.

On reflection, the assassination of Tsar Alexander II in 1881 stemmed from a profound clash between reform and revolution in imperial Russia. Known as the “Tsar Liberator,” Alexander II freed the serfs in 1861 and introduced significant reforms to modernize the empire. Yet his efforts satisfied no one - the nobility resented the loss of privileges, the peasants gained too little land and remained burdened by debt, and the radicals condemned his reforms as timid and incomplete.

Frustrated by slow and uneven progress, the revolutionary organization Narodnaya Volya (“The People’s Will”) resolved to overthrow the autocracy by force. On 01.03.1881, their plot succeeded when a bomb fatally wounded the tsar in St. Petersburg.

Ironically, the death of a reform-minded ruler ended a period of cautious modernization and ushered in an era of reaction and repression under his son, Alexander III. The assassination’s central motif embodies the tragic conflict between idealism and authority - a reminder that gradual change can provoke extremism when the public’s hope for progress fades.

History shows that visionary leaders who dared to pursue reform or changes often paid a heavy price for their courage. President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated for freeing enslaved Americans; President Anwar Sadat was killed after opening Egypt to peace with Israel; Israel's Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin was murdered for seeking reconciliation with the Palestinians; and Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 27 years for his fight against apartheid in South Africa. Each fell victim to the same tragic paradox: those who strive to heal divisions sometimes ignite the deepest hatreds.